I haven't decided if I'm going to do this yet or not but I was curious on what my options are as far as converting my car to manual steering? Of course the cheaper the better... 
P/S removal
- Thread starter iwannarace67
- Start date
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
The only option that makes sense from a safety perspective is to remove the power steering pump, re-route your belt, and take the power rack out - replace it with a manual rack. The power rack was not designed to be operated without benefit of pressurized hydraulic fluid helping things out.
04sleeper
Founding Member
I bought a manual rack from Advanced Auto Parts for $110.00. It is a factory manual rack in 79-81 Mustangs. Bought new tie rod ends while I was at it $18.95 a peice. Also had to get a flange adapter from Flaming River for $72.00 (What a Rip Off!) to hook it up to my steering shaft. But I have had it on my car for 3 1/2 years now and have had no probems.
89sleeper: You wouldn't happen to have any part number would you? What tie rods did you use? How's the steering on your car with the manual rack? Do you daily drive it? I'm not sure if that rack would work in a GT....
04sleeper
Founding Member
I don't remember the part number off hand but I just asked for a manual rack for 79-81 Mustangs. I just got new stock tie rod ends. The steering is not bad at all. I have 225-50-16's on the front of my car with Pony wheels. I have been daily driving it for 3 1/2 years now and I am very happy with it. It is a little harder to turn when in parking lots and such but no where near as bad as running a short belt and bypassing the power steering.iwannarace67 said:
And yes it will work in the GT.
Here is a picture of my car.
89sleeper said:
So basically the "cheap" way will cost about $220 not counting a core fee for the rack. The Flaming River kit will cost about $400 but comes with steering shaft and better components. I wonder if the extra price is worth it?
04sleeper
Founding Member
Yep. I just turned in my power rack as a core and they said it was ok so no money there. As far as Flaming River goes they just charge you for a polished center section of the rack and the factory shaft works just fine. Not worth the extra dough in my book. And after having it on my car driving it every day for 3 1/2 years now with no problems says it's ok to me.90mustangGT said:
Got a point there, pollished is pretty but not worth an extra $100+. I would probally do the shaft too though, it's better than the rag-joint factory unit and I think eleminates the need for the $80 adapter, but I could be wrong. Might as well get the whole shaft.
04sleeper
Founding Member
Compton_Rider
New Member
- Jul 18, 2004
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so what would happen if you loop the P/S lines when u take off the pump?..and would the rack break or just be too hard to use with the P/S rack with no P/S? ive been wanting to do this too..but im actually thinking about having the engine only turn the alternator and all the rest is run on electronics
the rack, as Michael said, is not made to be run w/o pressurized fluid. that said, some have run for a couple years like that. just know that their will be no mechanical advantage like you would get from a manual rack (intended to be a manual rack).
Michael changed my thinking on this - i used to think it would be a good cheap way to go manual. but with the effort required and the possibility of failure/parts expecting lubrication wearing out prematurely, i dont think it is a great idea. plus i bet the darn column would get really loosey goosey.
CR, i would address the donut on the rear before disconnecting the PS pump. perhaps a trac lok rebuild is in the picture, if you are serious about having a donut on the rear.
Michael changed my thinking on this - i used to think it would be a good cheap way to go manual. but with the effort required and the possibility of failure/parts expecting lubrication wearing out prematurely, i dont think it is a great idea. plus i bet the darn column would get really loosey goosey.
CR, i would address the donut on the rear before disconnecting the PS pump. perhaps a trac lok rebuild is in the picture, if you are serious about having a donut on the rear.
Compton_Rider
New Member
- Jul 18, 2004
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thnx for addressing the issue of my donut..but it is a full sized spare..but it just has the black steel rim on it..lol..yea..im planning on a new rear end and new engine and tranny...so ill fix the tires while im at it
what about looping the lines though?..so the fluid is still being run through its just not being pumped with the pump..when u turn it the fluid gets forced out but them being looped they go back into the PS
what about looping the lines though?..so the fluid is still being run through its just not being pumped with the pump..when u turn it the fluid gets forced out but them being looped they go back into the PS
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
The power rack and pinion will work fine in manual mode if you cut the lines that go from the actator to the ram section of the rack. The only real difference between power and not is the actuator stuck on the power pinion and the sealed ram on the rack. It's not like the old '60's style that used the pressure from the steering arm to actuate the power assist. You could ruin those running them in manual mode.
Jamie
Jamie
88POSLX
Founding Member
I removed my pump and ran the ps rack for a year. At first it was a jarring change but like all things, you get used to it over time. I installed the flaming river kit this year and the change is huge.
As for looping the rack, having to move fluid without the aid of a pump will just make it more difficult.
As for looping the rack, having to move fluid without the aid of a pump will just make it more difficult.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
The high pressure output line of the rack should not be looped back into the low pressure return line. In any event, help me understand the benefit of leaving the power steering rack on the car un-powered, and leaving the p/s pump hooked up and pumping? Seems like the worst of both worlds. Not only do you still have the parasitic HP loss associated with the pump, you have super heavy steering, you're using a rack in a manner that it was never intended to be used, and you have no improvement in steering feel. Why would you do that?
Compton_Rider
New Member
- Jul 18, 2004
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sorry if u didnt understand..but i ment i would remove the pump..and the people at neons.org have had good luck with a P/S rack with no P/S
most of the responses have addressed your question. whether you disconnect the lines or loop them, it does not matter much. stangs have had luck with no pump (i dont see how looping the lines makes a difference). Jamie had an interesting idea - ive never heard of that, but i dont understand the inner workings of a rack that much (Jamie's info is good stuff, if you dont know him).Compton_Rider said:
Weather you loop the lines or what, it should be temparary. I've bypassed the P/S before and it wasn't that bad, but wasn't that good either. A manual rack should be soon to follow.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Sorry compton - misunderstood. I see now you meant to connect the hoses on the other end. Still, I wouldn't do it to mine - but to each his own.
