Tried them as well, but pullin them one at a time and putting them back in didn't show anything. Only when I pulled both #59 and #67 did the current drop.
ok I have a 2006 V6 and today at 38,123 miles had the 3rd battery installed.Living in Alaska Im aware that there can be isues with the vehicle sitting. But this is my daily driver except when there is more than 8 inches of snow. I also own a 1997 F250 with over 110,000 miles on its original battery. Both have after market auto starts professionally fitted. The indications are that there is either an quality issue with the Ford battery or there is an electrical drain in the car.
The company who installed the remote start did a dest and found a draw of 1.3A which disappeared when the power brake fuse was removed. Ford tested and say a bad cell in the battery. Sounds as if there are issues with these cars and power.
Well looks like the next battery made it to 54000 so about 16000 miles. Turning off the stereo when ever I get out of the car and running a trickle charger through the winter. Issues seem to be the stereo and a Ford design issue.
Note for winter driving batteries discharge below 18 Deg F so combine that with an alternator that equalizes between 2300 and 2600 rpm you are never charging it properly. Stressing the battery even more. And in Alaska with the ice and the dark those kind of speeds are dangerous.
Does anyone else have this problem? Have a 2007 Mustang (2 years old this month). Something is draining battery, and Ford dealership can't figure it out. Took it in 3 times now. If I let it sit a day and leave to go to work in the morning, the engine has a extended crank. I have disconnected the remote starts fuses, nothing. Ford gave me a new key(???), nothing. I even took it to my local repair shop last week and they don't see anything wrong with alternator/starter/battery. They think maybe it's a fuel pump problem.
Want to hear from others with same problem. Remote start isn't helping any if I have to physically go outside and start car first, then use remote start! That's kinda defeating the purpose!
Resurrecting and old thread but still applicable. Becky's car appears to be the same color as mine and she shares the same name as my grown daughter.
I have a 2005 GT with 16k miles at present; bought used 3.5 years ago with 6k miles. I travel extensively for employment so the car sits for several weeks at a time. Previous owner reported unexplained dead battery and I replaced the original battery last year with the largest of the four Motorcraft batteries Ford spec'd for this car. The dead battery situation has been intermittent but the latest round has prompted me to do something about it.
Purchased a new Sun multimeter that measures milliamps as I know Ford states there should be a max draw at rest of 50 milliamps. I've also noted in the past that after reinstalling the recharged battery and turning the key the radio turns on by itself - a symptom the radio isn't turning completely off during previous cycle?
I just posted the following to the 'specific tech' area.
This thread has been going for quite awhile! My '05 GT w/auto has just 16k miles and has experienced an intermittent parasitic power loss since new. I'm the second owner since 6k miles; first owner reported the issue too. I rarely drive the car as I travel for weeks at a time for employment. Replaced the original battery last year with the largest of the 4 Motorcraft batteries recommended for this car, depending on the options.
Car has been mostly reliable with the rare 'no start' due to a dead battery. After an unexpected 'no start' last week (dead battery - 5.9v) I finally got around to connecting a multimeter to check for parasitic loss. I first connected the hot battery to lower the windows and drew substantial fire from the connection. I disconnected the battery (positive cable) and connected my multimeter and read an astounding 1.6a! Everything was off, doors closed and trunk light off. Ford states that only 50ma max is acceptable.
I pulled every fuse, circuit breaker and the instrument cluster, coming to the following results:
High Current Box (under the hood)
30a fuse in #67 position: SJB #4 (whatever that is?) Instrument Panel Fuse Box - draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Low Current Box (behind RH kick panel)
10a fuse in #8 position: Cluster, Data Link Connector (DLC) - again, draw dropped by 30ma when fuse pulled.
Instrument Cluster: again, draw dropped by 30ma when cluster pulled.
Thinking these 30ma draws are normal and within the 50ma limit. But what could be drawing 1.3a? I noticed when I reconnected the battery there was no visible fire during contact. Hmmm.
A possible clue? Whenever I reinstall a fresh battery after a near complete discharge (like last week) the Shaker 500 radio comes on as soon as I turn the key. I always turn the radio off manually before shutting down the car as recommended.