Pass side window will only go up? not switch or motor. help!

91stang50GT

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Nov 1, 2005
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I Just bought my 91 5.0 gt last week and im trying to fix one of the many small problems with it. The passenger side window would not go down so i pulled the door panel and pulled to motor and relized the motor would still go up but not down. So i then switched the pass motor with the drivers side motor to see if the motor was the problem and the pass motor went up and down. I then switched the motor back into the pass side and used the drivers side window switch (which i know works) and it still did not go down, only up. Therfore its not the switch or the motor, but the problem is somewhere in between. There is also no connector for the switch assembly as ive seen on other stangs, it is just straight wire ran through out the door. Anyone know what it could be?

Also i forgot to mention the drivers side switch for the pass window will not make the pass window go up or down. i also changed that switch with the drivers side window and the switch worked to operate the drivers side window. All in all, all of the window switches themselves work:bang:
 
91stang50GT said:
Also i forgot to mention the drivers side switch for the pass window will not make the pass window go up or down. i also changed that switch with the drivers side window and the switch worked to operate the drivers side window. All in all, all of the window switches themselves work

Confusing statement. If I understand you correctly, you say the switch that was in the driver's side does not work in the passenger side? One thing that you need to realize is that *both* switches must be installed for the passenger window motor to work. Take out one and the circuit is broken.
 
Mine does the same thing, I haven't tried reversing the switches, but I can get the pass side window to go up and down from the driver side, but only up from the pass side. Also, the door locks are the same way, full control from the driver side, none from the pass. I think my pass. side switches are bad.

Can you get everything to work from the driver side?
 
You have to understand that you are working with DC electricity here. Motor direction is reversed by reversing the power and ground connections. This is what your window switches do. It's pretty obvious that you have a broken wire, probably in one of the accordion covers going between the doors and the body. The proper way to test the motor is to jumper it from the battery and switching leads to reverse it. The switches are tested using a continuity tester by checking for a connection in BOTH positions and none in the center (off).
 
JB66 said:
You have to understand that you are working with DC electricity here. Motor direction is reversed by reversing the power and ground connections. This is what your window switches do. It's pretty obvious that you have a broken wire
If there was a broken wire between the switch and the motor, then neither direction would work. As you stated, the switch simply switches polarity. If one direction works then both wires have to be ok.
 
Normally that would be true, except when Ford is involved. They decided to use separate grounds for these circuits, so the switches don't actually reverse the polarity of the wires. Check out the wiring in the EVTM.
 
Ok...
To lower the pass side window from the pass side switch;
1. Pink wire has constant power in run/acc.
2. Yellow/red becomes the ground wire.
3. Red/yellow should have power when switch pushed and window will go down.
4. IF that works, check continuity from the yellow/black wire at the pass switch to the white/yellow wire at the driver switch.(make sure switches are NOT connected for this test.)
5. IF that checks out OK, install the driver side switch and check continuity between the white/yellow wire to ground.
Let me know the results.
 
I've had this exact problem before:
D/S window works up/down
P/S window works up from P/S switch, not down
P/S windows doesn't work from D/S switch
Like they said above, one of my wires was broken. All but a few were cracked and corroded. I ended up completely removing the harness from the door, and cutting one foot out of all the bad wires. I replaced all of them so the splices would be on either side of the rubber boot, not in it (i.e. immobile). Also if you do this you should use flexible wire, I believe it's 12 gauge for the windows/door locks. Silicone wire is best. Radio Shack sells like a 20 foot roll of 'hook up wire' which comes in 12 gauge. It is quite flexible actually, for a wire that big. 2 years and no problems so far :D