Passenger Side Power Window Issues

5point0dude · Jan 10, 2014

This issue in my '91 is really starting to annoy me. With the door open, the window goes up and down normally, when the door is closed, the window won't go down at all. I tried lowering it with the door open at different angles, and the window goes down with the door about halfway open and beyond that. I also tried lowering the window half way and with the door closed and the window won't go down at all, but it does go up. So a summary:

- Window goes up and down with door open
- Window does not move down with door closed
- With the door closed and window half way down, window goes up but will not go down

Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

88LX5.Oh · Jan 10, 2014

Take the door panel off and trace the wiring from the motor to wherever it leads to in the dash?
Maybe a wire is being pinched when the door gets to a certain point.
Or put test leads into the motor and take a battery or jump box and put straight 12 volts to it with the door closed. This would help on determining if it was a wiring problem. Because I doubt there's something mechanical making it bind up

Audiophile · Jan 10, 2014

It almost sounds like their is a short and/or open happening in the wiring that is triggered by position of the door. This makes me think it could be coming from, or somewhere very near, the rubber throughway / gasket that leads from the door to the interior of the vehicle. The ones on my 92 remove pretty easy, and go back about the same. I would look closely around that area, although it could certainly be coming from anywhere. If you are unfamiliar with www.the12volt.com, you can search for your year model under "security" and find the wire colors that operate that window, or you could just follow from the passenger switch.

Those are my first thoughts, anyway. Hope it helps some.

5point0dude · Jan 10, 2014

88LX5.Oh said:
Take the door panel off and trace the wiring from the motor to wherever it leads to in the dash?
Maybe a wire is being pinched when the door gets to a certain point.
Or put test leads into the motor and take a battery or jump box and put straight 12 volts to it with the door closed. This would help on determining if it was a wiring problem. Because I doubt there's something mechanical making it bind up

Thanks, yeah I also think a wire is getting pinched or getting a bad connection. I'll check that out.

5point0dude · Jan 10, 2014

Audiophile said:
It almost sounds like their is a short and/or open happening in the wiring that is triggered by position of the door. This makes me think it could be coming from, or somewhere very near, the rubber throughway / gasket that leads from the door to the interior of the vehicle. The ones on my 92 remove pretty easy, and go back about the same. I would look closely around that area, although it could certainly be coming from anywhere. If you are unfamiliar with www.the12volt.com, you can search for your year model under "security" and find the wire colors that operate that window, or you could just follow from the passenger switch.

Those are my first thoughts, anyway. Hope it helps some.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure how to remove the rubber boot in the door jamb, how did you get it off? I'll check that site out as well, as I am almost certain it's an electrical issue.

Audiophile · Jan 10, 2014

5point0dude said:
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure how to remove the rubber boot in the door jamb, how did you get it off? I'll check that site out as well, as I am almost certain it's an electrical issue.

Its just a press in fit. You should be able to pull from around the sides and it should pop out. That is, if its like mine, which I'm guessing it is. Of course, the more times they have been taken out and put back in, the easier they are. Mine pop in and out pretty easily.

5point0dude · Jan 10, 2014

Also, what is the name of the part where the window and door lock switches connect to? The flat, black piece that has the wires connect to on the back and switches connect to on the top. I've been looking everywhere and can't find a specific name.

Audiophile · Jan 10, 2014

I pulled a link for your 91.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/891.html

However, I just remembered when I put my alarm in that the colors listed for my 92 were not exactly accurate. The absolute best way to find the EXACT wires is to use a multimeter, and go to the back of the switch to test to see which wire reads 12V when the switch is activated. Of course, there will be one wire for up, and one wire for down.

I'm not sure what that piece you are speaking of is called, sorry. Someone else may chime in soon that knows. I'm only speculating, but one of the online parts houses may have one and have a name for it. Sorry, that's kind of a crappy idea, but about the only one I can think of.

89oem · Jan 12, 2014

Late model resto has all the switch parts if that helps

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/Product/Search?vehicle=1979-93-Mustang&q=Window+switch

5point0dude · Jan 16, 2014

Thanks everyone for the replies. Found out it was a broken wire in the door jamb area, wires would connect when door was open, but come apart with the door closed. Fixed it and now it's working perfectly now.

Audiophile · Jan 16, 2014

Great to hear man, nice job!

Passenger Side Power Window Issues

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