Patriot tri-y fitment problem (rubs on shock tower)

19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
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So I finally got my engine and transmission back together. Then I try to install the new tri-y's and the passenger side will not fit without hitting the shock tower :Damnit: So after screwing around forever trying to get it to fit, I realize its the new prothane motor mounts. They make the engine sit low in the bay, which causes me to have less clearance on that side. So I jacked the engine up after I loosened the mounts and it help a little bit, but that header still rubs.

So what do I do? Is the header the problem or the new motor mounts (they are the Summit Prothane ones, $100)? How will I modify that header to fit? I don't think it needs that much more room so it doesnt hit. Can you heat ceramic coated headers up and kind of flatten them out? Will it wreck the finish? Check out the pictures and tell me what you think.

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i had the same problem, never thought of the motor mounts being the problem tho (they were new, not orginal). i tried jacking it up and moving it every which way and even making spacers for inbetween the motor and the mount to get more clearance.

ended up torching the pipe that hit, and beating it with a hammer. its not pretty but it fit lol.
 
19stang66 said:
My dad keeps saying that they manufactured the header wrong, but he wont believe me that its not the header thats wrong its something else.
its just a typical problem, mine arent Patriots, but they are Try-Y's and they dop the same thing, i did as Krash said and moved(forced) the engine over and tightened it down and also put washers to space it up a little
 
ME TOO!

I am currently in the process of a cam/head/intake/exhaust swap. I purchased the patriot try-y's and am having some fitment issues. I cannot fit the header in on the passenger side because it interferes w/ the shock tower. The driver side is in fine but I done have more than an 1/8" of room so moving the engine to that side really isnt an option. (Its a 4spd car w/ the original linkage). I need about 1/4" on the passenger side. I have pics of its necessary.

Will '66 style motor mounts lift the engine up enough get the headers in?

How does the ceramic coating hold up to hammering if it comes to that?

Do I hae any other options?

Thanks,
Trevor
 
I got a little more clearance with the stock motor mounts, I had the prothane ones before. It still rubs a little bit though, I can see my paint turning brown :(

Also on the drivers side collector my steering linkage is hitting the collector when I turn it all the way to the left and its denting it. It rubbed off the ceramic coating in that spot, I hope it doesnt rust there now. Any one else have this problem? Can I fix it? I'll get some pics up sometime.

Oh and to answer your question, yes the 66 style mounts should help you out since you have the 65 style now.
 
seems like the next step then

What is necessary to switch mounts? Do they just bolt into the 65 brackets or is there another style bracket I need to get too? I want to make an order tomorrow so that I can make some progress next wknd. (my car is 100+miles from where I live now)

Thanks for the help
Trevor
 
i had to jack up and move the engine from one side to another to get mine to work, then my pitman arm hit the drivers side header. torched it and dented it with a ball pein hammer. still rubs but not as bad. i applied a coat of primer and then silver to the header after the torch job
 
Thanks for the link. Cobain, what kind of prep did you do, what primer did you use, what paint (high temp engine stuff?)

LONN, i believe you have to buy the 66 style brackets and they get spendy. Check NPD's online catalog if you dont have it at home or try ebay. Can someone else verify my info about the brackets?
 
Those brackets are pricey. Best deal I have seen so far is poly mounts and the brackets for $200.

Does anyone know if the Ron Morris mounts require the brackets or do they bolt straight to the frame?

I didnt want to drop me than $100 for stupid mounts. This sucks.