Patriot tri-y fitment problem (rubs on shock tower)

1

19stang66

Member

Apr 16, 2003

689

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16

Apr 22, 2006

#1

• Apr 22, 2006

• #1

So I finally got my engine and transmission back together. Then I try to install the new tri-y's and the passenger side will not fit without hitting the shock tower amnit: So after screwing around forever trying to get it to fit, I realize its the new prothane motor mounts. They make the engine sit low in the bay, which causes me to have less clearance on that side. So I jacked the engine up after I loosened the mounts and it help a little bit, but that header still rubs.

So what do I do? Is the header the problem or the new motor mounts (they are the Summit Prothane ones, $100)? How will I modify that header to fit? I don't think it needs that much more room so it doesnt hit. Can you heat ceramic coated headers up and kind of flatten them out? Will it wreck the finish? Check out the pictures and tell me what you think.

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

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36

Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Apr 22, 2006

#2

• Apr 22, 2006

• #2

You should be able to loosen the two main nuts from below on the engine mounts and slide the engine more to the driver'e side.

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 22, 2006

#3

• Apr 22, 2006

• #3

ohhh good call Krash. I'll give that a try. The drivers side has a lot more room than the pass side. So that makes sense. I'll have to loosen both sides of the car wont I?

 

krash kendall

Active Member

Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Apr 22, 2006

#4

• Apr 22, 2006

• #4

Yes. There is plenty of movement each way as the holes the studs drop through are very large. They should have fender washers on them.

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 23, 2006

#5

• Apr 23, 2006

• #5

I think i'm just going to order stock '66 motor mounts. That should fix the problem. I just need to sell my nice, new prothane ones now.

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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36

Lexington, Ky

Apr 23, 2006

#6

• Apr 23, 2006

• #6

i had the same problem, never thought of the motor mounts being the problem tho (they were new, not orginal). i tried jacking it up and moving it every which way and even making spacers for inbetween the motor and the mount to get more clearance.

ended up torching the pipe that hit, and beating it with a hammer. its not pretty but it fit lol.

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 23, 2006

#7

• Apr 23, 2006

• #7

Ya i'm scared to heat up and bend those ceramic coated pipes. That'll be my last resort.

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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36

Lexington, Ky

Apr 24, 2006

#8

• Apr 24, 2006

• #8

trust me, it was mine too. we have always thought they have sent us the wrong headers but we had to do what we had to do.,

make sure if you do end up doing this, to get some primer and spray on the spot.

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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Apr 24, 2006

#9

• Apr 24, 2006

• #9

My dad keeps saying that they manufactured the header wrong, but he wont believe me that its not the header thats wrong its something else.

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

4,159

20

79

Rowland Heights,California

Apr 24, 2006

#10

• Apr 24, 2006

• #10

19stang66 said:

My dad keeps saying that they manufactured the header wrong, but he wont believe me that its not the header thats wrong its something else.

Click to expand...

its just a typical problem, mine arent Patriots, but they are Try-Y's and they dop the same thing, i did as Krash said and moved(forced) the engine over and tightened it down and also put washers to space it up a little

 

LONN17

Founding Member

Dec 1, 2000

135

1

17

Oceanport, NJ

Jun 11, 2006

#11

• Jun 11, 2006

• #11

ME TOO!

I am currently in the process of a cam/head/intake/exhaust swap. I purchased the patriot try-y's and am having some fitment issues. I cannot fit the header in on the passenger side because it interferes w/ the shock tower. The driver side is in fine but I done have more than an 1/8" of room so moving the engine to that side really isnt an option. (Its a 4spd car w/ the original linkage). I need about 1/4" on the passenger side. I have pics of its necessary.

Will '66 style motor mounts lift the engine up enough get the headers in?

How does the ceramic coating hold up to hammering if it comes to that?

Do I hae any other options?

Thanks,
Trevor

 

1

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003

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16

Jun 11, 2006

#12

• Jun 11, 2006

• #12

I got a little more clearance with the stock motor mounts, I had the prothane ones before. It still rubs a little bit though, I can see my paint turning brown

Also on the drivers side collector my steering linkage is hitting the collector when I turn it all the way to the left and its denting it. It rubbed off the ceramic coating in that spot, I hope it doesnt rust there now. Any one else have this problem? Can I fix it? I'll get some pics up sometime.

Oh and to answer your question, yes the 66 style mounts should help you out since you have the 65 style now.

 

LONN17

Founding Member

Dec 1, 2000

135

1

17

Oceanport, NJ

Jun 11, 2006

#13

• Jun 11, 2006

• #13

seems like the next step then

What is necessary to switch mounts? Do they just bolt into the 65 brackets or is there another style bracket I need to get too? I want to make an order tomorrow so that I can make some progress next wknd. (my car is 100+miles from where I live now)

Thanks for the help
Trevor

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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36

Lexington, Ky

Jun 11, 2006

#14

• Jun 11, 2006

• #14

i had to jack up and move the engine from one side to another to get mine to work, then my pitman arm hit the drivers side header. torched it and dented it with a ball pein hammer. still rubs but not as bad. i applied a coat of primer and then silver to the header after the torch job

 

concreteman

New Member

May 7, 2005

21

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1

Snohomish, Wa

Jun 11, 2006

#15

• Jun 11, 2006

• #15

well here is one more option, but it will cost you $200. I bought these for my 69 351W, so I wouldn't have the same fitment issue, they allow you to move the engine forward/backward as well as side to side.

http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com...e=rmp&Product_Code=6110&Category_Code=Hot_New

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

996

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36

Lexington, Ky

Jun 11, 2006

#16

• Jun 11, 2006

• #16

that would help thw front to back movement but if your spacing is ba don both the driver and passenger, then it wouldnt help much, if any

 

concreteman

New Member

May 7, 2005

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1

Snohomish, Wa

Jun 11, 2006

#17

• Jun 11, 2006

• #17

66 said in his second post that he had more room on the driver side, thats why I posted the link, sounded to me like it was a possibility for him

 

1

19stang66

Member

Apr 16, 2003

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16

Jun 11, 2006

#18

• Jun 11, 2006

• #18

Thanks for the link. Cobain, what kind of prep did you do, what primer did you use, what paint (high temp engine stuff?)

LONN, i believe you have to buy the 66 style brackets and they get spendy. Check NPD's online catalog if you dont have it at home or try ebay. Can someone else verify my info about the brackets?

 

LONN17

Founding Member

Dec 1, 2000

135

1

17

Oceanport, NJ

Jun 11, 2006

#19

• Jun 11, 2006

• #19

Those brackets are pricey. Best deal I have seen so far is poly mounts and the brackets for $200.

Does anyone know if the Ron Morris mounts require the brackets or do they bolt straight to the frame?

I didnt want to drop me than $100 for stupid mounts. This sucks.

 

1

19stang66

Member

Apr 16, 2003

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Jun 12, 2006

#20

• Jun 12, 2006

• #20

I know they would bolt straight to the frame bracket on a 66, dont know about 65s. My summit poly ones bolted right to the frame bracket, which by the way I need to sell.

here are some brackets at $31 on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-6...ryZ34202QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem