People who have TKO 600, please come in.....

i am ordering a TKO 600, the corresponding bell housing, clutch, aluminum drive shaft, and yoke.... i have talked to 4 different sales persons from different companies about the order. 2 of them told me i will have to shave down the drive shaft for it to fit. and the other 2, told me i will have to get a driveshaft spacer for it to work. :scratch: Please someone that has done this before, tell me what is correct. thanks!!
 
Be careful some have been having problems with tko 500/600 with it not shifting to 3rd at high rpms. Mine doesn't but hopefully today I can fix it. But as far as spacers I didn't need any.
 
98gtblue said:
Be careful some have been having problems with tko 500/600 with it not shifting to 3rd at high rpms. Mine doesn't but hopefully today I can fix it. But as far as spacers I didn't need any.


thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's
 
svttech76 said:
thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's

which quad and adjuster do u suggest i get??? cause i dont wanna have this problem... and also Post #5??
 
svttech76 said:
thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's

I have a billet clutch quadrant, new clutch cable, adjuster, and now I'm in the process of replacing the fluid, shifter and adjusting the cable again. Everything was bought new and installed by a professional mechanic. Hopefully it is just adjustment problems.
 
98gtblue said:
I have a billet clutch quadrant, new clutch cable, adjuster, and now I'm in the process of replacing the fluid, shifter and adjusting the cable again. Everything was bought new and installed by a professional mechanic. Hopefully it is just adjustment problems.


yeah, I think it's the adjustment of the cable.

remember you want minimum 1 inch of free play at the bottom of the pedal.

By this I mean with your foot to the floor on the clutch you should be able to lift your foot off the pedal for a minimum of 1 inch before the engine rpm's start to drop at all, I like atleast a 1 1/2 myself.
 
svttech76 said:
yeah, I think it's the adjustment of the cable.

remember you want minimum 1 inch of free play at the bottom of the pedal.

By this I mean with your foot to the floor on the clutch you should be able to lift your foot off the pedal for a minimum of 1 inch before the engine rpm's start to drop at all, I like atleast a 1 1/2 myself.

You have been great help and thanks for making it simple for me and explaining things.
 
The reason it would happen in third more than other gears is due to transmission design. from ehat I understand (have been told) 3rd gear is in a position that makes it suspect for hard shifts and failure, so if everything isnt right it will be the first gear to show you a problem.

I am in no way a transmission expert this is just information I am passing along. Take it for what it is worth.:shrug:
 
98gtblue said:
Didn't work and doesn't make sense that it happens only in 3rd. Cable is tight so that is not it.



HMMM.. how old is the tranny? and are you sure your keeping your foot all the way to the floor when you shift? sometimes when your trying to shift quick you can forget to keep your foot all the way down, or just mistime the shift a little bit.. I know I have done that before.

if it's not that you might be having a syncro issue.. at what rpm's are your shifts at when this happens?