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People who have TKO 600, please come in.....

  • Thread starter Thread starter four.six
  • Start date Start date May 17, 2006
F

four.six

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
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Corpus Christi, TX
May 17, 2006
#1
  • May 17, 2006
  • #1
i am ordering a TKO 600, the corresponding bell housing, clutch, aluminum drive shaft, and yoke.... i have talked to 4 different sales persons from different companies about the order. 2 of them told me i will have to shave down the drive shaft for it to fit. and the other 2, told me i will have to get a driveshaft spacer for it to work. Please someone that has done this before, tell me what is correct. thanks!!
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 17, 2006
#2
  • May 17, 2006
  • #2
for most people they were able to bolt the driveshaft right up. you will not have to shorten the drivehaft if anything you will need a spacer.
 

98gtblue

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Dec 15, 2003
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houston
May 17, 2006
#3
  • May 17, 2006
  • #3
Be careful some have been having problems with tko 500/600 with it not shifting to 3rd at high rpms. Mine doesn't but hopefully today I can fix it. But as far as spacers I didn't need any.
 

blackink00

I missed a shift & stole Curt's money.
Mar 30, 2005
545
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41
Tempe, AZ
May 17, 2006
#4
  • May 17, 2006
  • #4
mine just used the stock drive shaft and it shift smooth as butter. just beware that the tranny is a little loud. nothing unbearable though.
 
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four.six

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May 17, 2006
#5
  • May 17, 2006
  • #5
svttech76 said:
for most people they were able to bolt the driveshaft right up. you will not have to shorten the drivehaft if anything you will need a spacer.
Click to expand...

when installing, how will i know if i need the spacer?? how far in does the yoke need to be?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 17, 2006
#6
  • May 17, 2006
  • #6
98gtblue said:
Be careful some have been having problems with tko 500/600 with it not shifting to 3rd at high rpms. Mine doesn't but hopefully today I can fix it. But as far as spacers I didn't need any.
Click to expand...


thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's
 
F

four.six

New Member
Nov 27, 2004
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May 17, 2006
#7
  • May 17, 2006
  • #7
svttech76 said:
thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's
Click to expand...

which quad and adjuster do u suggest i get??? cause i dont wanna have this problem... and also Post #5??
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 17, 2006
#8
  • May 17, 2006
  • #8
four.six said:
which quad and adjuster do u suggest i get??? cause i dont wanna have this problem... and also Post #5??
Click to expand...


any one of them is fine. I have the steeda one myself, UPR. mustang tuning and a bunch of other places sell them a lot cheaper than what I paid.
 

98gtblue

New Member
Dec 15, 2003
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houston
May 17, 2006
#9
  • May 17, 2006
  • #9
svttech76 said:
thats a clutch adjustment issue, very common if you noticed I posted about it in your thread on this. I don't see a afermarket quad and adjuster on your mods list? a aftermarket clutch with that POS stock plastic adjuster is asking for trouble shifting at high rpm's

the cause of this is insufficent air gap, at high rpm's a larger amount of air gap is needed to allow the trans to be fully disconnected from the engine tourqe. so you need to tighten the cable to ensure you have enough air gap

ok this is a easy way of saying it, even with your clutch pedal touching the floor your not fully disengaged, you might be disengaged enough at idle an dlow rpm's but you need to be fully disengaged at high rpm's
Click to expand...

I have a billet clutch quadrant, new clutch cable, adjuster, and now I'm in the process of replacing the fluid, shifter and adjusting the cable again. Everything was bought new and installed by a professional mechanic. Hopefully it is just adjustment problems.
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 17, 2006
#10
  • May 17, 2006
  • #10
98gtblue said:
I have a billet clutch quadrant, new clutch cable, adjuster, and now I'm in the process of replacing the fluid, shifter and adjusting the cable again. Everything was bought new and installed by a professional mechanic. Hopefully it is just adjustment problems.
Click to expand...


yeah, I think it's the adjustment of the cable.

remember you want minimum 1 inch of free play at the bottom of the pedal.

By this I mean with your foot to the floor on the clutch you should be able to lift your foot off the pedal for a minimum of 1 inch before the engine rpm's start to drop at all, I like atleast a 1 1/2 myself.
 

98gtblue

New Member
Dec 15, 2003
237
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houston
May 17, 2006
#11
  • May 17, 2006
  • #11
svttech76 said:
yeah, I think it's the adjustment of the cable.

remember you want minimum 1 inch of free play at the bottom of the pedal.

By this I mean with your foot to the floor on the clutch you should be able to lift your foot off the pedal for a minimum of 1 inch before the engine rpm's start to drop at all, I like atleast a 1 1/2 myself.
Click to expand...

You have been great help and thanks for making it simple for me and explaining things.
 

98gtblue

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May 19, 2006
#12
  • May 19, 2006
  • #12
Didn't work and doesn't make sense that it happens only in 3rd. Cable is tight so that is not it.
 
0

01Steeda

New Member
May 29, 2005
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Baton Rouge, LA
May 19, 2006
#13
  • May 19, 2006
  • #13
The reason it would happen in third more than other gears is due to transmission design. from ehat I understand (have been told) 3rd gear is in a position that makes it suspect for hard shifts and failure, so if everything isnt right it will be the first gear to show you a problem.

I am in no way a transmission expert this is just information I am passing along. Take it for what it is worth.
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 19, 2006
#14
  • May 19, 2006
  • #14
98gtblue said:
Didn't work and doesn't make sense that it happens only in 3rd. Cable is tight so that is not it.
Click to expand...



HMMM.. how old is the tranny? and are you sure your keeping your foot all the way to the floor when you shift? sometimes when your trying to shift quick you can forget to keep your foot all the way down, or just mistime the shift a little bit.. I know I have done that before.

if it's not that you might be having a syncro issue.. at what rpm's are your shifts at when this happens?
 
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