Pertronix Ignitor II Install Question

[NasaGT]

Do you have to set the timing after installing one of these? The instructions just say install and go, but its not working for me. I noticed that the shutter wheel fits on the cam two different ways, it seems like this would affect the timing.

I've double and triple checked my installation, made sure I have the correct model number, and done a search to see if I missed anything else. In an old Packrat thread someone mentioned that the timing must be adjusted after a Pertronix install - this is the only mention I could find of this anywhere! Is it true?

Thanks!

 

[HammerG26]

I did not have do anything after my install. What do you mean, "Not working for you"? Is the car cranking, starting, running, running roughly, etc? Did you have dual points on your car?

 

[milner351]

are you still running a resistor / wire between your ignition switch and coil? As I recall, you have to remove that resistance and feed the pertronix the full 12V. I think it's also a good idea to update your coil and get rid of the old coil for points.

 

[krash kendall]

Did you set the gap with the provided shim? And yes, you will need a full 12V, although mine ran fine on the resistor wire for the couple weeks it took me to get around to running a feed from the ignition switch.

 

[NasaGT]

Sorry - forgot to post that info.

I'm still running the stock coil, so the original positive wire is still going to the + side of the coil. It was a single point distributor, 1969 351w H code.

I ran a new +12v from the ignition switch to the ignitor positive feed.

I have also replaced plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. Connections have been checked, firing order is correct.

The ignitor gap was set with the 0.030 shim.

Essentially I have replaced everything in the ignition system except the coil. I have a new one but have not installed yet. Maybe tonight....

The car turns over but doesn't fire. Before the ignitor install the car was hard to start, took 30 seconds of cranking to start up. I thought the points needed adjusting/cleaning, but decided an electronic ignition was the way to go. I am definately getting fuel, I can see it squirt in the carb when I move the throttle.

I have not tested to see if I have spark at the plugs yet, will do that this evening if I can get a helper. I think I have one of three problems:

1) Ignition Coil is bad. It could have been dying and finally let go.

2) I need to set the timing after the ignitor install. I was hoping to eliminate this possibility with this thread.

3) A bad ignitor, out of the box.

I should note that I bought this car several months ago, and it hasn't been driven in 15 years at least. I got it running after fixing a ton of fuel issues and cleaning the points a little (no adjustment). It was running just enough to idle and move it in and out of the garage.

Oy this was long, thanks for any help/advise that you may give.

 

[krash kendall]

Is your 12V feed live when the key is turned to the "start" position as well as the "on" position? Or, is it possible you are on an accessory only line? I traced the resistor wire back to where it spliced into non-resistor wire before getting to the ignition switch (just a few inches from the switch actually) and tied into that with a tap splice. That keeps the wiring on the original curcuit making the system clean and simple.

 

[66HertzClone]

If I remember correctly there is a direct relationship between degrees of dwell and ignition timing, one to one. You have "changed" the dwell time, which I know applies to a point system, but it is different none the less. Your ignition timing has been changed as a consequence. I'll bet it is not responsible for the "no start" condition you now have, but it needs to be timed correctly anyway.

It has been awhile since I looked at a Petronix, does it have a ground wire? If so, does it have a good connection, use a star washer to make sure. Have you checked to make sure your new wire is providing voltage?

Before assuming the unit is bad, check every connection using a test light or volt ohm meter.

 

[NasaGT]

Krash - I beleive the 12v feed is live when the key is in the 'on' and 'start' positions. I haven't verified the 'start' position though. It comes from the same source as the line I had to run to the starter solenoid, so I'm assuming its good, but I'll verify tonight.

 

[krash kendall]

Well, the one that runs to the starter solenoid is only live in the "start" position, otherwise the starter would always be engaged in the "on" position.

 

[krash kendall]

...If I'm following you right.

 

[NasaGT]

66HertzClone, the Pertronix does require the ground wire in the distributor to remain hooked up - I have not checked to see if it has a connection or not. I'll check that tonight as well.

 

[NasaGT]

...If I'm following you right.

Sorry I wasn't very clear. There are three lines to the starter solenoid all positive, if I have it wired correctly. One from the battery, one from the ignition switch for the 'start' position, and one that holds 12v when the key is 'on'. I've checked the 'on' feed and it has 12v when the key is in the 'on' position, 0v when in off position. The 'start' feed only has 12v when the key is in the start position, otherwise its 0v.

I have to admit that I didn't check to make sure all of the starter solenoid wiring is correct by looking at the wiring diagrams, I merely replaced the broken wiring that the PO had installed to fix the torn up factory harness. But since it started correctly after replacing the 'on' and 'start' feeds (and the starter) I assumed this wiring was OK.

Anyhow, the pertronix 12v feed is the same as the 'on' feed.

Better?

 

[fasttback]

I noticed that the shutter wheel fits on the cam two different ways, it seems like this would affect the timing.
QUOTE]

The shutter wheel only goes on one way. It should somewhat lock-on to the distributor cam. The side you're looking for has some angles that match up with the distributor cam and the other side is circular. The open slots on the plastic wheel will expose the cam to the module.

 

[THX 138]

I found a real good writeup that made the insall super easy.
http://mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0310_pertronix_ignitor_ignition/

 

[NasaGT]

The shutter wheel only goes on one way. It should somewhat lock-on to the distributor cam. The side you're looking for has some angles that match up with the distributor cam and the other side is circular. The open slots on the plastic wheel will expose the cam to the module.

Yes this is correct. The thing is you can install the shutter wheel onto the cam in two positions. Lets say for example you slip the wheel onto the cam and one of the slots is lined up with the ignitor module. The other slots are seperated by 90 degrees intervals. Now if you take the wheel and rotate it 45 degrees it will also slip onto the cam, and now the slots are on 45 degrees of either side of the ignitor module. Surely this changes the timing - there is nothing to indicate which is the correct position.

I tried it both ways, neither worked.

 

[krash kendall]

Uh... the slots are in the collar so that it will spread slightly to snugly fit the ring on the cam, not so the module can see the cam. It is not an optical device. The wider top part of the ring is what should be gapped with the module. There are materials at eight locations in the ring that trigger the module which is actually nothing more than a Hall Effect sensor. It doesn't matter which way you put the ring on so long as you don't somehow put it on upsidedown.

 

[NasaGT]

Thanks Krash, wasn't sure if it was important or not.

Its running again, turned out the new coil-to-cap wire wasn't making good contact with the coil. After a little gentle persuation it works just fine.

Goes to show you should never swap 4 things at once if you don't have to. If I had done them one at a time, this would have been easy to diagnose.