PI Intake Progress

spitfirees20 said:

Yeah, I'm assuming the O2 sensor was from the o/r midpipe, or the misfire which was letting fuel through or something and screwing with the O2. I checked the plug, was fine, checked for spark, had spark, checked to see if the injector/fuel rail was secure, it was. I'm out of ideas, and out of money to be throwing at random parts. It was running fine before the swap, now all of a sudden it doesn't want to work. Well, it's parked in the garage right now, and I'm pretty sure that's where it will be all summer

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If all else fails put you npi intake back on

A few issues that I had when we did my swap:

It misfired and bucked like crazy, we took it apart 4 times only to find out that it was because we mixed up 2 plug wires. Did you label your wires and which cylinders they went to? QUADRUPLE check to be sure, and if you're smart you took before pictures to reference to.

What type of gasket did you use, PI or NPI? Your issues could also be from coolant filling a cylinder or a vacuum leak. From what it sounds like, that plenum could be an issue. Take carb cleaner and spray it around the edges of the plenum and see if that changes the bucking or idle at all. If it does, you gotta get that bolt fixed.

Also make sure all your other vacuum lines are connected properly and are snugly on their appropriate connector, if a connection is loose that could cause an issue. We were so happy to have mine finally running again that we forgot to tighten the vacuum lines to the CAI and on the onramp it disconnected and my car started bucking like crazy and finally died. Had to wake my dad up at 11:30 to come bring a screwdriver and flashlight to put it back together.

Don't get TOO frustrated though, obviously it's OK to be frustrated It's more than likely something small and stupid.

spitfirees20 said:

The plug wires are motorcraft or something and are numbered, so I'm pretty sure they are all in the right places. Also, the actual PI gasket was put on by my dad, who also did the silicone for the coolant port, but everything else I did myself. He's in the middle of something right now and doesn't have time to work on my car. I'm just really pissed off at this stupid piece of crap, I probably made some mundane small error and since I'm not a mechanic I don't know what I would be looking for. I was thinking the plenum, but if there was a leak in the plenum, why would it only misfire in cylinder 3? I'm going to get new plugs, and new wires, and see if that helps. If not, I'm going to put a baseball bat through the window and buy a chevy, or take it to my uncle's shop next door and pay them to fix it.

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My crossed plugs brought me to the brink of selling my car. I think I even posted in the "HELP ME" thread that I made that if I didn't figure it out within a couple days I was going to be selling the car and sending a pipe bomb to Ford (last part I just made up, but thats how pissed I was getting). Then I saw GDawgs layout for his plug wires and realized I had messed up #7 and #8 wires. I would have sworn on my life that the wires were right prior to that too, goes to show that you HAVE to label EVERYTHING.

I went and took a quick picture, the #'s don't show up well though. On your coil packs when you look at them, there are 2 sets of #'s. The inside set are for the drivers side pack, outside set are for the passenger side pack. This picture w/ plug wire/cylinder numbers is for the drivers side coil pack.

spitfirees20 said:

Well it was running perfect before the intake, and I put the plug wires back in the exact same place, so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem. Plus, if they were in the wrong place the plug wires physically wouldn't reach the plugs, they are all different lengths. I'm pretty sure that's not it, but I'll check it again. Still could use those part #s though

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Just figured I'd throw it out there I know on mine, the wire going to cylinder 8 is shorter than the wire going to cylinder 7, thats why I didn't even check since I figured "longest goes to furthest away probably" Boy was I wrong...


As for the plugs, can't help you there. I just went to walmart and used the stupid little things they have there where you pick your vehicle and the part and it gives you the part #.

This is from modularfords

4.6 Mustang GT
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .054
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Motorcraft AWSF-32C (copper); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)

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Stick to Motorcraft or Autolites...Depending on how often you're willing to change plugs, Copper plugs give a better spark supposedly but need changing every 2 years.

Go to the Ford parts counter and get the AGSF-32Cs and get a copy of the 2007 FRPP catalog while you with the parts guys.... Its great fun!

spitfirees20 said:

I will not buy from the ford parts counter

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Why?

spitfirees20 said:

and why get a catalog full of stuff I can't afford?

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Because if you keep it on the toilet tank and read it everytime you pinch a loaf you will learn more about Mustangs. Don't you like reading catalogs?