Pic Request: Vaccum lines coming from the passenger side fenderwell to intake

Are you running the emissions equipment? If not I would just cap the tree and get rid of the excess stuff.

veryuseful.com... lots of good info for repairing these cars. Used this vac diagram when fixing my '87. May not be exact for your year, but it'll get ya really close.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Boydster said:

veryuseful.com... lots of good info for repairing these cars. Used this vac diagram when fixing my '87. May not be exact for your year, but it'll get ya really close.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

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good info, thanks for the link

I am not running the smog pump, so I am assuming I can get rid of the thermactor air diverter and bypass solenoids, correct?

jsw81 said:

good info, thanks for the link

I am not running the smog pump, so I am assuming I can get rid of the thermactor air diverter and bypass solenoids, correct?

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Yes that would be correct.

So what about this top connector above the solenoids? Sorry for the hijack, maybe OP can use this pic for reference!

jsw81 said:

good info, thanks for the link

I am not running the smog pump, so I am assuming I can get rid of the thermactor air diverter and bypass solenoids, correct?

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You had better not be running a cat converter H pipe, because the cats will clog and choke. They need the extra air to promote the catayltic process.

Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...e to check cars, but it is still Federal law.

jsw81 said:

So what about this top connector above the solenoids? Sorry for the hijack, maybe OP can use this pic for reference!

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The top connector is the EVR.

jrichker said:

You had better not be running a cat converter H pipe, because the cats will clog and choke. They need the extra air to promote the catayltic process.
<snip>

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The previous owner already removed the smog pump, and replaced the factory H pipe with an off road X. Just cleaning up some of the stuff that's doing nothing because of it. I live in a state with no emissions testing, so I am ok as far as that goes.

4G-KDMP said:

The top connector is the EVR.

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Cool, thanks! Guess that will stay put.

Yeah, you can remove the TAB and TAD solenoids, just make sure to follow the vac lines back and plug em. Make sure not to remove / plug off the lines for the HVAC controls... one goes through the firewall, another goes through the inner fender to the resevoir. Both of these should feed off a check valve on the firewall. The check valve and resevoir make for nice, instant control response.

With the TAB and TAD removed, the computer will toss up some codes and set the CEL. But I'm guessing with the smog pump removed, the CEL was already on.

If the PO removed the pump, did he remove the valves and hoses? Were those vac lines to the valves capped off? If not, it would give you some bad vac leaks.

Boydster said:

Yeah, you can remove the TAB and TAD solenoids, just make sure to follow the vac lines back and plug em. Make sure not to remove / plug off the lines for the HVAC controls... one goes through the firewall, another goes through the inner fender to the resevoir. Both of these should feed off a check valve on the firewall. The check valve and resevoir make for nice, instant control response.

With the TAB and TAD removed, the computer will toss up some codes and set the CEL. But I'm guessing with the smog pump removed, the CEL was already on.

If the PO removed the pump, did he remove the valves and hoses? Were those vac lines to the valves capped off? If not, it would give you some bad vac leaks.

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The previous owner plugged some, but not all. I am in the process if a partial restoration so most of the wiring is removed, so I will make sure to plug the things needed.

This is how it sits right now, got the engine down to the block ready for H/C/I. Por15'd the whole engine bay and then sprayed it with a durable chassis coat

.

That's quite a job you have going on there... good luck on it.

Use that diagram for the systems you will have installed when you put things back together. Make sure you don't leave any lines open. The only thing it doesn't show is the PCV.

If you decide to go with no emissions, plug the holes on the back of your new heads. It's a whole lot easier before you hang em on the engine.