Pinion Preload Questions

[BRX98GT]

Hey guys...I had the front pinion bearing go out on me and now have my rear end off the car and taken apart. I am putting it all back together this weekend and was wondering what preload torque settings I should be using.

From what I've read I should be using 18-28 in-lbs (for new bearings) and 10-14 in-lbs (for old bearings). Problem is I have one old bearing and one new. Should I just shoot for the lower end of the new bearing range?

Also, I have a clicker-type in-lbs torque wrench. Can I get away with using this to check the preload or do I have to use a dial type?

 

[03ghoststang]

use the new bearing and tq. specs, also to measure the preload use the dial type

 

[bdcardinal]

why didnt you replace all the bearings? just wondering

 

[BRX98GT]

Thanks 03ghoststang.

bdcardinal: I'm not changing the other bearings and races because they all look to be in good shape and it is my understanding that if I don't replace the ones on the carrier or rear of the pinion, I won't have to deal with adjusting the pinion depth or backlash.

Can someone with gear experience verify that for me and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[02stangbang]

you MUST use a dial type torque wrench, because that is a torque-to-turn figure. i would personally replace all bearings at once but if you must do it this way i would shoot for 18 in/lbs. using a clicker-type you would definitely over torque it. i hope your at least using a new crush sleeve.

 

[BRX98GT]

Yeah...I've got a new crush sleeve, front bearing and race. The reason I'm not replacing the other bearings is because I don't want to change the current pinion depth and backlash settings.

 

[chuck943]

What u are measuring is rotational force so it must be done with dial type. It takes quite a bit of force to collaspe the crush washer to obtain that reading also,most cheap air guns won't do it. If you are doing it with a breaker bar you may even have to use a pipe over the bar just to get enough umph on it. What u want to do is tighten it down until the forward to rear play is gone then start measuring the torque.

 

[Stan Weiss]

Remember when you crush the sleeve go slowly and measure the turning torque. If you crush the sleeve and have to much turning torque you can not just loosen the nut a little but have to start over with a new sleeve.

 

[BRX98GT]

Thanks everyone.

One last question, do I need to be measuring the rotational force with the carrier/axles installed or not? The link below seems to suggest that this be done without them in the housing.

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm

I've got the whole rear end off the car and disassembled anyway so either way will be just as easy for me.

 

[Stan Weiss]

Hey guys...I had the front pinion bearing go out on me and now have my rear end off the car and taken apart. I am putting it all back together this weekend and was wondering what preload torque settings I should be using.

From what I've read I should be using 18-28 in-lbs (for new bearings) and 10-14 in-lbs (for old bearings). Problem is I have one old bearing and one new. Should I just shoot for the lower end of the new bearing range?

Also, I have a clicker-type in-lbs torque wrench. Can I get away with using this to check the preload or do I have to use a dial type?

Your question was about pinion bearing preload torque. This is measured with only the pinion installed.