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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

pinto swap headers 351

  • Thread starter Thread starter barrylee66
  • Start date Start date Apr 15, 2008

barrylee66

Member
Jul 4, 2005
45
1
7
SPRING HILL FL.
Apr 15, 2008
#1
  • Apr 15, 2008
  • #1
just to clear this up the hooker swap headers for pinto do not bolt on a mustang ll. I had researched this and read on several forums that these will work. sooo 500.00 and 4 months waiting. I try to install these. after much work I finally got them mostly installed. after cutting both collecters off, got the passenger side bolted up and had to pull them with a wench and a strap hooked to the area where the collecter used to be, and pulled it towareds the drivers side, then heat the bends with a torch. so that it would stay in place,it fit. the drivers side is another story one of the tubes hits the rod hooked to the lower a frame.and where it hooks to the header had to be heated and bent down so it clears. that tube has to be cut and re welded to clear. in other words if you are not a fabricator dont bother.
 
A

a351Must2

Windsor II
Founding Member
Mar 12, 1999
4,317
0
0
Snohomish, WA
Apr 18, 2008
#2
  • Apr 18, 2008
  • #2
Mine fit "Ok"without modification ('74 w/ manual brakes and automatic)... It wasn't until I installed them in my '78 with power brakes and a stick shift that I had to have them cut up and put back together in a fashion that fit. But, yes, they don't fit with power brakes.
 

Steel Steeds

New Member
Aug 31, 2005
234
1
0
Portland, OR
Apr 20, 2008
#3
  • Apr 20, 2008
  • #3
Darryl, you have headers on your 351W? Did you cut the fenderwell? I'm looking at mine, and I'm having a hard time believing anyone will want to take on the project of making something that will fit without going under the crossmember... Do you have pics up anywhere? Thanks.
 

barrylee66

Member
Jul 4, 2005
45
1
7
SPRING HILL FL.
Apr 29, 2008
#4
  • Apr 29, 2008
  • #4
if he has the same ones I have yes you have to cut inner fender out,remove the power brake booster for clearance. I used them because I have a big bellhousing trans and they clear that. mine are the hooker super comp pinto swap for 351 windsor. and they are a lot of work. I have installed at least 20 different types of headers on a lot of different cars.
 

vooderman

New Member
May 5, 2008
16
1
0
Lockport, Illinois
May 6, 2008
#5
  • May 6, 2008
  • #5
I bought a set of Headman headers for my 351W conversion. I hate it! The passenger side does run under the engine crossmember and the collector is too low. A bump in the road creates alot of noise and a few sparks from it scraping the ground. I do plan on replacing them soon but have not been able to find a set that "bolts in". What a PITA. I would love to see some pics of what you did or are doing to get something to work. Or even better, make a second set and I will buy them from you! Yeah, theres an idea, what do ya think?
 

Steel Steeds

New Member
Aug 31, 2005
234
1
0
Portland, OR
May 7, 2008
#6
  • May 7, 2008
  • #6
I put the factory manifolds on for right now. Once I get all of the other bugs worked out, I plan to have a set of headers custom made for it. It seems to me that there's a market out there for these headers. Maybe I can convince the fabricator to make a few sets to sell.
 

barrylee66

Member
Jul 4, 2005
45
1
7
SPRING HILL FL.
May 10, 2008
#7
  • May 10, 2008
  • #7
ok I got the headers on. I had to modify one of the tubes to go around the strut bar that holds the lower a frame in place it was one of the tubes that comes out so it was not bad. I ordered one u bend tube the same size from summit. used my sawzall to cut then mig welded the peice or 2 peices in. and ground down my crappy looking welds and welded it again. when I was done you could not tell I did it. they still need to be adjusted a little bit so I can get big exhaust on it. I bought these headers because on my last ll my headers hit the ground.
 
A

a351Must2

Windsor II
Founding Member
Mar 12, 1999
4,317
0
0
Snohomish, WA
May 15, 2008
#8
  • May 15, 2008
  • #8
Found some pics... you'll notice there's a lot more welds on the headers than they originally had from Hooker, as well as some flanges instead of slip joints.

Ground Clearance:
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image004.jpg
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image005.jpg
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image006.jpg
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image007.jpg

Collectors:
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image007a.jpg

Fenderwell:
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image008a.jpg

A couple car pics from that same time period (2001)...
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image001a.jpg
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/temp1/image005b.jpg

Even more unrelated...but I ran into an old old picture when it had fresh paint and a 2.3L turbo.
http://www.a351must2.atfreeweb.com/78TTop/images/ttop002.jpg
 

vooderman

New Member
May 5, 2008
16
1
0
Lockport, Illinois
May 18, 2008
#9
  • May 18, 2008
  • #9
Hey Barry,

How about some photos? Once I get this to work, I am ready to rock and roll!
 

barrylee66

Member
Jul 4, 2005
45
1
7
SPRING HILL FL.
Jun 1, 2008
#10
  • Jun 1, 2008
  • #10
I got mine running finally after spending every spare second for a month working on it. my headers do not have nearly that many welds on them. cut one tube on the drivers side and added 2 peices I will take some pics before I rip it all back apart because of low oil pressure.
 

vooderman

New Member
May 5, 2008
16
1
0
Lockport, Illinois
Jun 1, 2008
#11
  • Jun 1, 2008
  • #11
Barry,

A few photos would be nice. I have been waiting to see what you did on yours. That really stinks that you have to pull it to see what is going on with the oil pressure. Kinda frustrating but I guess it is the nature of the beast.
 

Mstng2

Founding Member
Jun 27, 2002
789
5
19
- - Zion - -
Jun 18, 2008
#12
  • Jun 18, 2008
  • #12
Too bad heddman stopped making thier 351W conversion headers. Compared to your nightmare stories mine were a breeze with very little extra work. All 8 tubes do run under the A-Arms but a slighly stiffer front spring solved any issues there...
 
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