Play in crankshaft- need advice

sick95gt

New Member
Sep 11, 2005
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Las Vegas
I just brought my car to a shop to have them check the vibration I've been having since I did H/C/I. Just to give a quick description of the problem, I had everything enginewise installed in my signature. It ran fine for 2 days, then after I did a burn out, the whole car started vibrating like crazy whenever I rev the engine. Clutch in or out, rolling or not, in gear or not etc. Well, after replacing the balancer, all clutch components with a new flywheel, checked the energy suspension mounts etc, it still vibrates. Well, they called me and said there is a little bit of play in the crankshaft and I have a slight rocker tick. They also said there might be other issues like the flywheel being off balance, even though its new, which I know is possible. I have a few questions. Can I have them replace the crankshaft and bearings and be ok as long as everything else inside is ok? Would anything else need replaced? What should this job cost? Could anything else be damaged? I didn't drive the car hard after the vibration started and I only drove it maybe 50 miles after that to get home and to the shop. Any advice would help! Thanks.
 
How did they determine there was too much play in the crank? And are they referring to endplay, or does it seem as though there's too much clearance in your main bearings? It wouldn't hurt to at least give the cylinders a hone and re-ring if they were in there, granted everything else is ok. I'd see if the crank needs replacing before committing to it.
 
They said its supposed to have a hair of play to move back and forth with. I was asking about doing a 331 stroker kit and they quoted $5000. They are crazy! I am just trying to make sure I don't get raped. Also, I don't want them to do the work, then have it still vibrate.
 
If they haven't pulled the engine and measured endplay, I wouldn't listen to a thing they had to say. Your endplay should be anywhere from .004-.008 in. If they haven't pulled your oilpan to check, they're just talking nonsense.
 
they told me it should be something like 1/16th of an inch ad that it is definately a lot more. I will have to get more info from them. I'm just trying to learn a little bit so that when I talk to them tomorrow, I can know what to ask them about so that they don't take advantage of me.
 
well, the shop called me and I'm pretty sure they dont have a clue. They say the crank play is not off by much and that the engine needs rebuilt since something inside is out of balance or broken. They said it would cost $3500 or more to have them rebuild it and balance it all. Now, they are just trying to cover all areas by redoing it all. I'm gonna take my car back and go elsewhere. My problem is that I dont have the tools or knowledge to do it myself, so I'm stuck with having to have other people do it.
 
isn't it possible to check the endplay by just putting a dial indicator on the nose of the crank and moving it back and forth?

Probably, but it's not the recommended method. Especially if the trans is still installed, because it's possible the input shaft could influence the crankshaft's front to rear play. I didn't see any prices on CHP's website, but with the parts you already have, you could pick-up a 331 or 347 shortblock for about $1,800 from DSS and call it a day. I'd tell them to shove that $3,500 all up in their *** and take the car back.
 
They have no idea. They said it could be and they also said it could have been built wrong. But it ran great for 2 days, then all of the sudden started vibrating after the burn out. I know there is a correlation, but don't know what I damaged.