Please help/Car stalls

Well the intake isnt going to screw you up but you really need to swap it, you'll make a buttload of power just doing that...

Now onto your problem...check for vacuum leaks first and foremost... Does the engine's idle or behavior change when you apply the brakes? Also remove and clean the IAC passageways, your valve might be sticking. What's your idle set at, if you idle it too low it can do this also. Make sure TPS voltage is correct, should be roughly 0.98v at idle and smooth sweep up to around 4.5 or 4.6v, iirc.

And Im going to assume you have an AFPR and played with it, the timing is good, and you matched the mass air meter to the injector size?

OLT's thoughts sounded good to me. What codes are you seeing?

I'd also ask if you have any issues with the VSS (stalling while slowing can be a dashpot issue, which is controlled via the VSS and IAC).

Does the car idle while warm with the IAC disconnected?

Good luck.

See "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=534062
for help with your idle problems. The first post contains all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

If you expect to get any valuable input you're going to have to answer the questions we've asked and try what we suggest and give input back, otherwise we may as well be talking to a wall and telling you things youve already tried.

o2 sensor probably not. IAC is mounted on the side of the TB. You can clean it with Throttle Body Cleaner. Also make sure that the passage or port hole between the Idle Air Control and the Throttle Body is clear.

If the suggested-thread had been read and digested, I think a lot of questions would have been answered.

Bi-directional communication is quite helpful on an internet forum. I'm not sure if it works for other people, but that crystal ball in my avatar is for decoration only.


Good luck.

when you've got a problem, sometimes you've got to read and read and read. My problem took me nearly a damn year to find, and the entire time I couldn't drive the car. I didn't have the cash to take it in, and it's too custom for any street mechanic to work on anyhow (I had mechanics telling me it was "not possible" to put an explorer engine into a mustang)

Over the past year I've read more on vacuum, speed density, and eec IV systems that I would have otherwise in 2 lifetimes. My car is fixed now.

try disconnecting the brake booster and drive it, and see if that doesn't make your problem better. You could be loosing out on vacuum when you mash the pedal. Really though, scour those links, they will help!

Good troubleshooting takes time. Everyone seems to be looking for
the magic tip that says replace this $13 part and your problems are
cured. You don't have to think, dig or diagnose, just buy the part and
install it. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way 99% of the time.
Thinking is hard work and educated thinking requires much more
effort than simple parts swapping. The complexity and age of these
5.0 Mustangs works against that, as well as the number of hands
that have “modified” the original design. Sometimes that
modification is well done with good workmanship and other times it
is mechanical road kill. It is very easy to become the victim of the
previous owner’s efforts.

I spend a great deal of time trying to communicate the methodology
of structured troubleshooting principles. For those who haven’t been
beaten with this stick before, here they are again:

1.) Understand the system. That involves reading some books to get
an overall picture of how it works. For 5.0 Mustangs, that list starts
with the Chilton shop manual and the Probst book, Ford Fuel
Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles
Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3. It's about $30 from Borders.com, see
http://www.amazon.com. Select books and then select
search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a
search. Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a
loaner copy for free for 2 weeks or so. Another resource is the
following website by Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine. Study
the diagrams and tech articles. There is an amazing amount of good
stuff in one place for FREE.

2.) Isolate the problem. You need to be able to break the system
down into functional blocks or subsystems. Once you know what
subsystem has failed, it is much easier to troubleshoot. Group
problem symptoms according to what system controls them. Don’t
look for a fix for ignition problems by adjusting the fuel pressure.
Have an organized, step by step, approach to work your way through
a subsystem and check its functions. Work all the way through a
subsystem before you quit and go off wildly chasing rabbits. You
have three tools to use in your efforts: measure, meter and
observe. Use these three tools to narrow down the list of possible
failure points into a small, easily managed list of items.

3.) Install the fix. .Now that you have a short list of suspected
villains, plan your repair efforts so that you do the easy things first.
If an item from the easy list didn’t fix your problem, then look at the
high failure rate items. Spend some time here on Stangnet and you’ll
get an idea of what the most commonly replaced parts are, things
like TFI modules, ignition switches and fuel pumps.

If you make a change and it doesn’t relieve the problem symptoms,
put it back the way it was. I have a stack of parts from where I
swapped a part and it didn’t fix the problem. I put the old part back
on the car and the new part went on the shelf. Someday I will either
use them or trade them for something else.

Having said that, a repeat of my previous comments is in order:
See "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=534062
for help with your idle problems. The first post contains all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

Wake Up Brett

Brett88lx said:

I'll read the checklist but I thinnk that's just going to confuse the ***** out of me.

Click to expand...

If you have that much done to your engine but don't know what an IAC is, and you don't want to pay attention to the suggestions here, AND you just think that a step by step checklist isn't going to be at your education level.................
TAKE YOUR CAR TO A REAL MECHANIC!!! You don't have the skill set to fix it. Not trying to be an ass but your not listening to the folks trying to help you and it seems that you don't understand basic car stuff to boot.