Please help diagnose my trac-lok...

Nobody

Founding Member
May 9, 2000
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Kenmore, WA
I jacked up the rear of the car and but one wheel on a block. The other wheel is off the ground. The tranny is in neutral.

Now, I can spin the wheel that is off the ground. While the other wheel does not spin. Is this normal or does it need rebuilding?

Thanks,
Gabe
 
Depends on how easy it spins really. It should be kinda tight but also break loose for turning. Do both tires stay turning when doing a burnout? Mine isn't exactly tight but never does one leggers.
 
stroked8e5 said:
Depends on how easy it spins really. It should be kinda tight but also break loose for turning. Do both tires stay turning when doing a burnout? Mine isn't exactly tight but never does one leggers.

Is the one tire fire the only way to know? Last time I did a burnout, it laid two strips. Should I wait until it becomes a full open diff before I rebuild it?
 
It's really up to you if you want to rebuild it or not. It sounds like its operating like its supposed to. My theory is if its not broke don't fix it. A positive if you do repack it is the stock setup (if I remember right) went spacer,steel,clutch,steel,steel,clutch,then steel. If you get rid of the double stacked steel and alternate clutch then steel you'll add another clutch to each side of the spider gears making it a cheap little upgrade.
 
i went thru this recently.
you should not be able to hold one tire still,while the other tire is spinning.

you would need to hold it with both hands and a real real firm hold.

i was doing the one wheel peel,and laying 2 strips also...depending on how hot the rear was i think.

but wheni got the tracloc out the clutches were sooooooo smoked it wasnt funny.
what a difference it made.
i had everything changed while it was apart besides the r/pinion

the wheel bearings and gaskets too.
races,bearings spiders all that....also 1 of my spiders were missing a tooth too. i would do it asap. and use plenty of friction additive. make sure it gets inside the rear by eyeball..

i had my oil changed after 200 miles ,its to get any new shavings out. the <break in period>
 
dannydoo said:
you would need to hold it with both hands and a real real firm hold.

There's actually a real torque spec, but this is a pretty good test.

If you have one tire on the ground and have to put some muscle into spinning the other, it's probably working fine.

If it turns right over -- no good.
 
One way to test, and the fun way also is the lay rubber driving straight with the brake off and do not let off until they totally hook. Then get out and follow the black marks. The marks should be dead even in both lenght and density, meaning they should fade togeather.

Even a one wheel bias, one wheel having a little more traction than another, can make a big difference in traction. I rebult mine with the extra clutch and it made a huge difference.