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Please help: Electrical problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter streetstang67
  • Start date Start date Feb 12, 2004

streetstang67

Member
Mar 5, 2003
573
0
16
Lexington, SC
Feb 12, 2004
#1
  • Feb 12, 2004
  • #1
My car has always had a charging system problem, it was mostly overcharging and boiling the fluid out of the battery. I went through 3 voltage regulators before I got one that seemed to work. That was right at the beginning of winter. I haven't been driving much since its been winter, but about a week ago I was going to crank it up just becuase it hadn't been run in a while. First problem was that the battery was dead, so I boosted it off. Usually when I crank it up, it idles around 2000 rpm until it warms up and the choke turns off. Well, it stayed idleing at 2000 rpms nomatter how long it ran and warmed up. So I took it for a test drive to autozone for a charging system check. On the way, going through town, it wouldn't idle in gear. When I came to a complete stop, I had to put it in neutral, or it would idle sparatically and turn off, but when it was in neutral, it would idle at 2000. So I barely get to autozone and is charging at like 11.2 volts a.k.a. not enough. So the dude connects a wire from the alternator to the solenoid and it goes up to 12 volts. And he says that means there is a short somewhere. He "super"-charged my battery while I was there. I went home (again, barely making it through all the lights without it "choking" down) and thoroughly checked all the wiring. I cleaned all connections and figured that I had fixed the problem, but when I cranked it up this afternoon (having to boost because the battery went dead again), the problem is still there. I managed to get to autozone again, and got the same results. What do I do? Please help
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
Feb 12, 2004
#2
  • Feb 12, 2004
  • #2
My 67 had the same problem. I replaced the short wiring from the alt. to solenoid but that wasn't it. Short of replacing the harness that comes from the firewall across the headlights and rad. support, I was stuck. I tried every test I could to find the short to no avail. My solution was to buy a one wire alternator with built in voltage regulator; problem solved. This alt. has been on for nearly ten yrs. with no problem. The only downside is there is no hookup for the factory guage in the car. On a side note, I always thought it was really stupid to put the voltage reg. next to the fill spot on the rad., not to mention the heat it absorbs being there.
 

streetstang67

Member
Mar 5, 2003
573
0
16
Lexington, SC
Feb 13, 2004
#3
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #3
Is there anything else it could be?
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
2,126
0
46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Feb 13, 2004
#4
  • Feb 13, 2004
  • #4
Guess you need a wire diagram and a volt-ohm meter and trace the short.

or even at 12volt test light will help, Start looking for the draw on the battery first.
That may be the real problem.

Sitting here and looking over the 70 wireing diagram, I find 4 basic wires that
control the flow to and from the battery and alt.

If I started at the replay connection and check the Ohm's loss to ground it may Isolate the beginning to the short.

The wires do change colors a few times but where they do is a connector to break open and check the wire from point to point.

FTFM
 
F

Ford4Fun

New Member
Mar 6, 2003
68
0
0
Montana
Feb 14, 2004
#5
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #5
I would take the neg side off of the battery and put a test light between the terminal and post. If there is light you have a short. Just systematically disconnect stuff till the light goes out. When it does, you have found your short.
 

streetstang67

Member
Mar 5, 2003
573
0
16
Lexington, SC
Feb 14, 2004
#6
  • Feb 14, 2004
  • #6
I took your advice and went to autozone with my alternator to get it tested. The two new guys that were trying to test it hooked it up wrong and burned it up or something, basically fried it. So I got a free replacement. I've got it installed, but I'm waiting on the battery to charge now to see if there is any change.
 

streetstang67

Member
Mar 5, 2003
573
0
16
Lexington, SC
Feb 29, 2004
#7
  • Feb 29, 2004
  • #7
I've taken all your advice and the problem is still here. I have now got a new battery, alternator, solenoid, and voltage regulator. I've cleaned all connections to electrical stuff in the engine compartment. I'm barely getting anything over 12 v charging with the engine running. With the car off, something is still pulling volts. I also found out that one of the reasons it won't idle in gear is b/c I have my foot on the brake (making the brake lights illuminate). With my foot off the brake, its not as bad...its just not getting enough power at low rpms. The worse part about this is that the problem sorta appeared out of nowhere. It didn't occur after some major thing I did to the car. Any other suggestions?
 

68GEETEE

5 Year Member
Nov 21, 2003
481
5
38
Texas, USA
Feb 29, 2004
#8
  • Feb 29, 2004
  • #8
I took mine to a garage, they put a meter on it, was reading almost 12, then we jiggled the plug at the regulator and the system started putting out almost 14 volts. My regulator harness plug was filthy from years of oxidation and dirt, so subsequently made a poor connection and the battery never got charged properly. Maybe your plug is dirty, or the wiring at the plug is shot. Hope this helps.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Mar 1, 2004
#9
  • Mar 1, 2004
  • #9
Your alternator might not be getting energized from the ignition switch, when you start it. I had this problem on a 67 fastback, and a 69 E300 van. I solved it by running a separate energizer wire thru a toggle switch to the alternator, only problem is I can't recall where the wire needs to be hooked to on the alternator. Maybe someone else here knows. If the alternator doesn't get this jolt of juice when the engine's fired up, it won't charge.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
Mar 1, 2004
#10
  • Mar 1, 2004
  • #10
streetstang67 said:
Is there anything else it could be?
Click to expand...

Electrical gremlins are a real PITA. The best suggestion I can give you is to get the Ford Manual for your 67. Section 13-1 gives all kinds of probable solutions to electrical problems. The $40 or so investment will really save you money in the long run. There"s a section on CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, CHECK VOLTAGE LIMITER, CHECK CHARGING CIRCUIT RESISTANCE, CHECK THE 15-OHM RESISTOR, etc.

Personally, I've had two cars with bad battery cables that caused dead batteries in one day of driving. Also had a work van that had a shorted battery that would only hold a charge for a few days, but that doesn't sound lke your problem, hence the need for correct troubleshooting.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Mar 1, 2004
#11
  • Mar 1, 2004
  • #11
How about your engine ground? Did you clean the connection at the engine and firewall? Check your battery ground also.

I put an extra ground on my ride using "welding cable" to make sure the ground is good. This is the biggest problem with electrical stuff.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
2,126
0
46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Mar 1, 2004
#12
  • Mar 1, 2004
  • #12
streetstang67 said:
I've taken all your advice and the problem is still here. I have now got a new battery, alternator, solenoid, and voltage regulator. I've cleaned all connections to electrical stuff in the engine compartment. I'm barely getting anything over 12 v charging with the engine running. With the car off, something is still pulling volts. I also found out that one of the reasons it won't idle in gear is b/c I have my foot on the brake (making the brake lights illuminate). With my foot off the brake, its not as bad...its just not getting enough power at low rpms. The worse part about this is that the problem sorta appeared out of nowhere. It didn't occur after some major thing I did to the car. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

Try removing the ground from the batt and put a test light inline.
pull the fuses one at a time till the lamp goes out, when that happens you have found the power draw.
if you get all the fuses out and the lamp is still lit, unplug the headlight switch.
PB
 
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