PLEASE HELP !!! MY STANG IS SICK

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

pitstang420 said:

Here is what happened I was driving and out of no where it started to spit and sputter I would push the clutch in and it would rev up when I gave it gas the I would try to go again it would want to die and I could smell gas so I thought maybe my fuel silinode was leaking from my wet nitrous kit but I checked it and the line was dry but when I started it up it would surge up and down twice then it would die and I noticed the tach was going crazy up and down but now it will not start at all but I can smell gas it is a 92 5.0 fuel injected 5 speed car so any HELP with this would be great thanks

Click to expand...

That makes like no sense at all?

Halp! I cen't spal or punctuate....

Sorry, my redneck dictionary is unavailable at this moment to translate your post...

If its the Ignition Control Module it will usually just cut off and die, not with the sputtering idle. You can take it to autozone and they can cycle test it to see if it is the Control Module tho. If you do make sure they cycle it at least three times. Many times heat is what causes them to malfunction.