Please Help!!!! Stuck!!! Problems!!!!!

AnthonyR23

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Sep 8, 2006
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Hi, I have posted a few times and have definetely got some great feedback from people. So my car has idle problems... and I have been directed over and over again to go through the checklist..... So maybe I am stupid but I feel like it isn't the clearest.. Ok so the first thing I was directed to do is fix any problems with computer codes/ vacuum leaks..

I cleared the codes on the computer... Well I think I did... Turned the key to on... didn't start the car though.. jumpered the computer test ground to the self test input and the car made a noise.. sounded like the fuel pump turned on or something.. then with a test light checked the fuel pump circuit and the light stayed on and it made that noise again... So ya... that's what I got from it.. what am I checking exactly.... I get directed towards doing this but I haven't really been explained what I am doing.. so was I directed to having to fix something by doing that... doesn't make sense to me.. any help would be great.. a little more detail would be appreciated...

Can someone tell me if this is clear... not trying to bash it because it is very helpful and I tried to follow the instructions.. but in my opinion this is a little vague..

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the 88 model Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Find and fix the coded items and that will clear many problems.

So did I find and fix the coded items.... what?????????????

So I thoroughly cleaned the IAC and the throttle body... and tried to mechanically adjust the screw on the throttle body with the iac unplugged and I cannot get it below 1500 rpm..

So I guess there is probably vacuum leaks or error codes that I'm not sure how to find...

I'm kinda stuck on this so any help would be great... I'm looking at a vacuum hose kit from mustangs unlimited "PIT PACK" SILICONE VACUUM HOSE KIT YELLOW.

So until I can get the rpm to around 600 should I not bother adjusting the tps???

I have a vacuum gauge but how do I use it.. Should the car be running??

Oh and another thing.. My battery relocation to the trunk kit said nothing about running a ground to the front of the car.. Just says to bold ground to a clean shiny spot on the frame at the back of the car... and my two grounds from block and comp are bolted to a clean shiny spot under the hood! Is the ground from the trunk up to under the hood neccessary or not really??
 
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Okay, I'll start with the easiest question first. Yes, the car needs to be running to create a vacuum for your test gauge to work. I've never used a gauge, I've just listened and searched for leaks manually, but my understanding is the gauge will fluxuate if there is a leak. It should be a steady reading, I'm NOT sure what the recommended reading should be but I THINK it's around 5-8 but I could be wrong.

Second, you are correct, it's no use resetting the TPS until you can get around 600RPM manually.

I don't think your battery relocation has anything to do with your idle problems. I also don't think you need to run the ground all the way back up to the front.

As for the rest of your questions, you yourself are a little vague... "So did I find and fix the coded items.... what?????????????" What codes did you get?

I can only assume you're referring to this checklist. The hightlighted yellow areas are plain english, read the white, then read the yellow until you understand it, if you don't know what you're reading you should probably take it to a shop and have it fixed professionally.

You could also check this
From garystocker:
I had an idle of 1500rpm. And an occasional surge. Stayed that way until I disconnected the throttle cable! Idled right down!!

I pulled the cable backwards out throught he maze of vacuum lines and rerouted it in a nice sweeping way...Perfect idle. No surge. No 1500rpm. Bliss!
 
I recommend that you connect the test jumper prior to turning the key on when dumping codes. That will keep you from accidentally erasing any stored codes. The test light is only necessary if you have a car manufactured before 1989. Use the check engine light on the dash to count the flashes on 1989 and later cars.

The odd noises you heard when the computer was jumpered was part of the self test that activates every actuator and relay that is computer controlled. They all turn on and off as part of the self test. This helps spot actuators and relays that don’t work or that are intermittent.

Jumpering the fuel pump test connector is not necessary to dump the codes. It is there if you wish to test the fuel pump electrical circuit.

I recommend that you follow the links and read the information from both sites prior to attempting to dump the computer codes.

The vacuum gauge gets connected to the vacuum tree on the driver's side firewall. Start the engine and observe the vacuum reading at idle. You should see 16"-19" of vacuum at idle.

TPS setiting : From the Surging Idle Checklist "Make sure the ignition switch is in the Run position but the engine isn't running."

Extra ground wire from rear to front: please read the heading. It says "Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems". You can use only the ground wire that comes with the relocation kit and probably get away with it. However, if you want the very best results and performance, run the extra ground wire.
 
Feedback!!

I really appreciate the feedback... definetely sorry for being vague... I just am a little frustrated with the instructions.... just being honest.. but with this frustration I definetely have got the best feedback... so thank you all... I'll check that throttle cable.. and do the vacuum test.. As for the computer codes, etc. I will reset the comp... with key off.. Then from there.. I have a 88 mustang with speed density... so I need to do the test light method.. I definetely would like to upgrade to mass air but for know I would like to solve this problem first!! Ok so when I jumpered the computer... and hear those odd noises...that activates every actuator and relay that is computer controlled. How long should I be jumpering it for with my test light for it to do the test? Eg. I turn the key on then hook up the light. so I'm standing there with this light that seems to be on continuosly... should I record what happens or do I count the flashes... how do I know if somethings wrong... To be honest what I read didn't really give instructions about this... oh and when I am doing this test.. should I run the car for a bit, then shut it off, then with it off clear the codes.. then turn the key to the on position and then do the test??? So I just count the flashes.... for how long just until it stops???
 
Ok so I did the vacuum test and there is two readings on my vacuum tester top and bottom.. but the needle didn't fluctuate it sat at 23.5 or 10 not sure what number to look at.... so is that looking good???
 
I apologize because I didn't even see the article... that explains the frustration... can't believe I missed it... Only question I still have is if my vacuum test in previous post was ok... Thanks again everyone sorry for the frustration.... I'll let ya know an update once I finish the tests.... Responses greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!:SNSign:
 
....... it sat at 23.5 or 10 not sure what number to look at.... so is that looking good???

Yes and no, respectively.

23.5" would be excellent (I've not gotten over 20" myself, and I like to think I keep the car in good repair). 10 would really suck and you would be borderline with having brake booster assistance issues.

If you blip the throttle, you should see the reading dip as you blip, and fall back to the original reading or slightly higher when you let off the throttle.

Good luck.
 
summary

Here's a little thing I did for myself using the test light version... just for when I actually go out to the garage.. may help others.. just a summary....



EEC Error Code Test

1) Warm up to operating temp

2)A/C and Heater in off position

For KOEO test (engine off)

1)attach jumper and test light

2)turn ignition to on but don't crank

Five things will happen

1)bunch of clicking (don't worry)

2)things will happen too fast.. no light

3)on demand codes.. at the moment problems.. flashes code 21 and 32 would be... flash flash break flash longer break flash flash flash break flash flash longer break....... codes will be presented twice.. eg. 21, 32, 21, 32

4)separator code you'll just see a individual flash after the above codes are finished

5) events from the past... may not be any because I think I cleared the memory.....

For the KOEO test (engine on) warm up to temp and turn of heater/ ac.. same as for the above test run it at 2000rpm

then shut off engine.. hook up test cables then immediately restart.

1) first thing that will happen is you'll get a code for engine id: v8 will be 4 flashes

2) for about 6 to 20 seconds car will do some strange reving etc.

3)after above interval engine will smooth out and begin to idle evenly... then you'll see a single flash...this is called the goose test... push down the throttle to bring it up over 2000 rpm then let go. this will last 4 to 15 seconds

4)fast codes... that the light won't see.... then the error codes as above.. if everything is fine you'll get 1 1 (flash flash) if you didn't goose it enough in the previous step you'll get 7 7 and get to do it over again
 
Here's a little thing I did for myself using the test light version... just for when I actually go out to the garage.. may help others.. just a summary....



EEC Error Code Test

1) Warm up to operating temp

2)A/C and Heater in off position

For KOEO test (engine off)

1)attach jumper and test light

2)turn ignition to on but don't crank

Five things will happen

1)bunch of clicking (don't worry)

2)things will happen too fast.. no light

3)on demand codes.. at the moment problems.. flashes code 21 and 32 would be... flash flash break flash longer break flash flash flash break flash flash longer break....... codes will be presented twice.. eg. 21, 32, 21, 32

4)separator code you'll just see a individual flash after the above codes are finished

5) events from the past... may not be any because I think I cleared the memory.....

For the KOEO test (engine on) warm up to temp and turn of heater/ ac.. same as for the above test run it at 2000rpm

then shut off engine.. hook up test cables then immediately restart.

1) first thing that will happen is you'll get a code for engine id: v8 will be 4 flashes

2) for about 6 to 20 seconds car will do some strange reving etc.

3)after above interval engine will smooth out and begin to idle evenly... then you'll see a single flash...this is called the goose test... push down the throttle to bring it up over 2000 rpm then let go. this will last 4 to 15 seconds

4)fast codes... that the light won't see.... then the error codes as above.. if everything is fine you'll get 1 1 (flash flash) if you didn't goose it enough in the previous step you'll get 7 7 and get to do it over again

I've been learning alot from these guy's myself..especially with codes, and i was directed by somebody to check out www.fordfuelinjection.com just another great source for any one of us ford guy's