Please Help Which lifters should I Get????

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Oct 15, 2008

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Jun 23, 2009

#1

• Jun 23, 2009

• #1

After racing A new Challenger Srt8 over the weekend on a local Interstate...
I think i have a collasped Lifter......... i already read the previous posts on this issue and tried the trans fluid trick,but it didint work....So then i tried the seafoam trick and that didnt work either....i think its time for a new set!!!! this is the second time it has happened but the last time they pumped back up......So which Hydraulic Roller Lifters do you guys & girls recommend??? please help

DSS 347 Stroker with only 1k miles........

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 23, 2009

#2

• Jun 23, 2009

• #2

wheres all the gear heads when i need them

 

TenorPlayinGuy

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Jun 23, 2009

#3

• Jun 23, 2009

• #3

Theres a trick to making them solids if you want to go that route.

But I use the CompCams kit, A little more expensive but no complaints so far. Im using a Trick Flow stage 1 cam, and Cobra rockers on my E7's

No issues yet.

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 24, 2009

#4

• Jun 24, 2009

• #4

so whats the trick to making them solids????
which comp cams kit did you use???

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 24, 2009

#5

• Jun 24, 2009

• #5

anyone out there???

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 24, 2009

#6

• Jun 24, 2009

• #6

well i just talked to a speed shop & they told me that i might have some other issues,
the lifters that are in it now are stock lifters....
but when i get upwards of 5500 rpms that when they get stuck im running rotella t oil 15w 40
they said it could be a pushrod length issue....but my ? is it has 1k miles on it with no problems until now, if it was a pushrod issue why wouldnt it do it earlier??? or they said it could be an oiling issue? but my pressure is always up.......
So i really need your help guys!!!
Come on help a brother out

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 25, 2009

#7

• Jun 25, 2009

• #7

anyone any suggestions????

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 25, 2009

#8

• Jun 25, 2009

• #8

help a brotha out guys!!

 

TenorPlayinGuy

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Jun 25, 2009

#9

• Jun 25, 2009

• #9

Need more info on what valvetrain you have... studs/pedestal, heads, cam, etc etc. D.S.S. isn't putting together weak sauce, so did you have them send you the long block or just a short block. Info we needs to help the needy

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 26, 2009

#10

• Jun 26, 2009

• #10

i bought the short block froim dss.
tfs highport heads un ported 608 hydraulic roller lift cam stainless steel 1.7 roller rockers stud mount...
Will the ford racing motorsport roller lifters be ok?/

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 26, 2009

#11

• Jun 26, 2009

• #11

tenor playinguy did u get that??

 

TenorPlayinGuy

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Jun 26, 2009

#12

• Jun 26, 2009

• #12

I dont see why not, it's just a replacement part afterall, probably the same ones you have already in the block. However this issue has happened to you before you said, and how old is the motor? and what did you run in it to break it in, and then afterwards?

Sorry for not replying sooner, I don't get a chance to sit down and tinker with the computer until about 9pm every night.

There should be no problems running the Ford pieces with your setup, I know they work just fine on higher horse applications. You can take apart the lifters, and take some pictures of a good one, and then the one that is siezed, that may help as well. it's not hard to do, just a clip on the pushrod side of the lifter and a few parts come out, should be three pieces if I remember correctly, a spring, a plunger and something else.

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 27, 2009

#13

• Jun 27, 2009

• #13

TenorPlayinGuy said:

I dont see why not, it's just a replacement part afterall, probably the same ones you have already in the block. However this issue has happened to you before you said, and how old is the motor? and what did you run in it to break it in, and then afterwards?

Sorry for not replying sooner, I don't get a chance to sit down and tinker with the computer until about 9pm every night.

There should be no problems running the Ford pieces with your setup, I know they work just fine on higher horse applications. You can take apart the lifters, and take some pictures of a good one, and then the one that is siezed, that may help as well. it's not hard to do, just a clip on the pushrod side of the lifter and a few parts come out, should be three pieces if I remember correctly, a spring, a plunger and something else.

Click to expand...

Well the engine has less then 1k miles on it.....the lifters that were installed were used stock roller lifters out of a 5.0 that had 90k miles......The Motorsport guys & DSS said that i would want to find used lifters with alot of miles on them because they are proven!!! I thought this to be a little strange....as far as it happening b4 it did a couple of weeks ago when i raced my buddies 96 cobra convert with a 150 shot of laughing gas i beat him from a 30 roll by 6 cars..(boy was he mad) or surprised at that........upon decel from the race it started to tap & then after about a minute or 2 it pumped back up.......but i never put in "new" lifters.....then after racing that challenger on the x-way last weekend it did the same thing except this time it never pumped back up.......im running rotella T 15w40 oil should i switch to another brand once i install the "NEW" ford racing lifters that i picked up today??? im also running a wix 51515r racing oil filter...
Any advice you can offer me would be great.......... oh i ran rotella t 15 40 oil and the zinc additive when it was broke in.....im running the same oil now except adding 1 Bottle of the DSS oil additive as well.............so i think im safe on that route but now that it is broke in should i stick with the same type oil?????
My budduy said run joe gibbs X5 oil.....But its $10 a quart.....

 

TenorPlayinGuy

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Jun 27, 2009

#14

• Jun 27, 2009

• #14

Your best bet to break the motor in is to use a cheap oil, since it has more detergents in it. However since you already have 1k on the motor this should not be an issue

I have never ever heard of using USED roller lifters in a new block, I can't say much on whomever at D.S.S. told you that, but I can't believe it to be true. Perhaps someone with more knowledge or insight can shed some wisdom on that one.

I thought the zinc additive was for vehicles manufactured prior to 1970 or so, I don't know If that could be an issue as well, I wouldn't think it be necessary on a newer block made with more modern parts. As for your first oil, any good 10w-30 would be great, then after the first oil change switch it up to synthetic if you prefer. I always use a 10w-40 since i'm in california and drive on the highway alot. Synthetic of coarse, but See what others recommend on that. The lifters should be much better, be careful with that collapsed lifter bore, if you see any galling on the walls it could mean worse problems than you think. GOod Luck.

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jun 27, 2009

#15

• Jun 27, 2009

• #15

well after tearing off the upper intake and removing the valve covers it turns out that i broke the stainless steel roller rocker arm on the 3 one from the front of the engine on the drivers side........the brand is PRW......................this is the second one that i broke the first one was on the passenger side....they were aluminum.............again PRW...........
since im unemployed i really dont have a choice except to take them back to the speed shop and get a new set...........hopefully these will be under warranty still they are only 9 months old................Any recommendation on which type and brand i should go with??????
Im still gonna install the new lifters anyway...............the reason they said go with the used ones were because they are Proven.....whats a man on a budget supposed to do?????

 

white 89 GT

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Jun 28, 2009

#16

• Jun 28, 2009

• #16

LXFIVEOYEAH said:

i bought the short block froim dss.
tfs highport heads un ported 608 hydraulic roller lift cam stainless steel 1.7 roller rockers stud mount...
Will the ford racing motorsport roller lifters be ok?/

Click to expand...

So which is it aluminnum rockers or steel, are they 1.7`s what lift is the cam, is it 608 lift.

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jul 21, 2009

#17

• Jul 21, 2009

• #17

it turned out that the dork that installed the heads didint check the pushrod length correctly..............
the pushrods were 150 thou...to big........
after putting in the new pushrods & relashing the valves the car runs better then ever.....
alot more snappy....now i have to take it in to get the a/fuel check to make sure im not running too lean......

 

L

LXFIVEOYEAH

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Jul 21, 2009

#18

• Jul 21, 2009

• #18

thanks to all that responded to these posts