Please Need Help

[Bobby Beard]

Even if he did a so so packing job, it shouldn't burn up in 200 miles. I still put a glob of grease in my palm, then rotate bearing into grease until it comes out rollers. Your grease packer should have done same thing. As long as your real light on your bearing tightening, just barely past being able to turn with hands, your fine. When you pull r/side off this time, see if bearings held grease. Your using new grease seals? Right! Was this car in a right side accident, that your aware of?


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Okay so tighten by hand then slightly more with pliers! Got it. But no it was not in any accidents that I know of there is a dent on the back right fender but that's all no damage up front.

 

[Bobby Beard]

Even if he did a so so packing job, it shouldn't burn up in 200 miles. I still put a glob of grease in my palm, then rotate bearing into grease until it comes out rollers. Your grease packer should have done same thing. As long as your real light on your bearing tightening, just barely past being able to turn with hands, your fine. When you pull r/side off this time, see if bearings held grease. Your using new grease seals? Right! Was this car in a right side accident, that your aware of?


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Okay so tighten by hand then slightly more with pliers! Got it. The outter bearing held grease but the one that melted to the spindle.... well I wasn't able to tell... it was all gone. But no it was not in any accidents that I know of there is a dent on the back right fender but that's all no damage up front.

 

[Moosee1955]

Just trying to play detective here! When you pull it apart, inspect bearings and spindle, and report. Your bearings are what they call preload bearing. That's why you rotate rotor, tighten nut a little then loosen, then tighten lightly. It preloads the bearing. Be sure to replace rotor, if you haven't already. Do you have aftermarket rims on your car? Are they clearing caliper ok? Something is not kosher, and between us we'll figure it out. Any members in the Chicago area, that can stop by his place? I live in San Francisco, so not possible for me!


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[Bobby Beard]

Just trying to play detective here! When you pull it apart, inspect bearings and spindle, and report. Your bearings are what they call preload bearing. That's why you rotate rotor, tighten nut a little then loosen, then tighten lightly. It preloads the bearing. Be sure to replace rotor, if you haven't already. Do you have aftermarket rims on your car? Are they clearing caliper ok? Something is not kosher, and between us we'll figure it out. Any members in the Chicago area, that can stop by his place? I live in San Francisco, so not possible for me!


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Yes I replaced the first rotar because part of the bearings melted inside it and it was no longer smooth this time I caught it before it could happen to this rotary so it's still smooth for the bearings to fit in and spindle as well. I am going to pull it back apart in a week. Hopefully sooner but I will take the tire and rotor off Saturday and post another picture!!

 

[Mustang5L5]

I agree. 200 miles is quick. Something is wrong


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[Davedacarpainter]

@Davedacarpainter can you merge his two threads Dave?

Nah, i can only move threads to different areas on the forum. You'll have to get a moderator to do that.

 

[90sickfox]

Did you put the bearing cap that taps into the rotor back on.....no mention of that ?

 

[Bobby Beard]

Did you put the bearing cap that taps into the rotor back on.....no mention of that ?

Yes I did

 

[rd]

Check everything around there for something that's bent, stuck, or out of alignment. Is the brake caliper and piston working and retracting?
Can the caliper slide back and forth on the pins?

Is the caliper piston sticking and not retracting? That will put continuous drag on the rotor, as well as a side loading.

Have had some Ford truck calipers stick and not retract. Overheats the caliper, smells bad and ruins the rotor.

The proper procedure, from the 79 Mustang service manual for wheel bearings is torque to 17 to 25 ft lbs, rotate the wheel, then loosen a half turn, then tighten to 10 to 15 inch lbs, then align to insert the cotter pin. Try that, and get a feel for the rotor tightness.

 

[Martman]

This may be obvious but I don't see anyone specifically stating it. But you did out the lock washer on last with the cotter pin locking it in place right? If so did you make sure it wasn't bent or expanded allowing the nut to spin inside of it and tighten? I have just never seen anything like what you're experiencing with all of the new parts.

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[Martman]

These are the things that go on after the bearing. https://goo.gl/images/6VEpoF

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