Plugs and Wire suggestions ???

I DiDio I

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Jan 19, 2004
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Im thinking about changing my spark plugs and wires this weekend provided it's not too cold out... just curious of what everyone's using and what you would recommend. thanks in advance !
 
I am about to swap in Autolite 24's that Chris noted. I would add that 25's are the stock heat range (24's are one range colder). Just FYI so you dont have the same thought we did and end up with two steps colder.

You cant really go wrong with any plug wires out there. It comes down to personal preference. The FRPP's for 40 bucks are hard to beat.

I think Tim has posted that Anderson sells wires that are more custom fit for SN95 5.0L's.
 
Do you guys think I should try running 24s in my car? I used to run the copper 25s and didn't have too many problems. But then switched to the platinum 25s and my car hates them. They'll turn white on me all the time, indicating they're running too hot. I have to switch them out again anyway what do you guys think. Go with the copper 24s?
 
yellowstang1994 said:
But then switched to the platinum 25s and my car hates them.

I wouldn't run platinums at all. They suck, they don't conduct spark near as well as good old fashioned copper. I would think you might wanna try one heat range colder. Throw in some Autolite 24's and see how they work.
 
I agree with Chris's whole post. Plats can cause issues with EFI 5.0L's. And 24's should be fine, and is a decent idea if you ever see the ping thing (as Grady puts it).

Good luck.
 
if im not mistake, aren't the 24's for a more modified motor, and the 25's are for a stockish motor?? i just put in some 25's gapped to .054, w/ a new cap and rotor, and the car runs SO much better its unreal....my cap and rotor were rusted to ****......i honestly think i picked up power that was hiding......
 
I got Motorcraft ASF32C-F4 plugs. They are 1 heat range colder than the ones that are for a stock 1995 5.0L (ASF42C-F4), which is what people say to use for a blower car.

I have FRPP high performance wires.
 
For iron heads stick with the same heat range as stock.

FRPP wires suck as they are generic 79-95 and not specific for our cars. It comes with a small coil wire but it will need to be fabbed.

There are other companies that have 94-95 specific wires. My entire is ignition is MSD (6AL, blaster coil and 8.5 low imp. wires).
 
I would think mostly stock motors running n/a would benifit more from running a hotter plug not colder???
A)Cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high.
B)A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low (low HP motor).
So would it be better to run a hotter plug to to burn more of the air/fuel mitxure in the cylinder.
 
Hmmm, I have run colder plugs in many cars and never had issues. I guess others have read or had different experiences. Joe, why do iron heads matter (you piqued my interest)?

FWIW, the cobras call for the equivelant of 24's (so all 5.0's dont take 25's). I still stand by what I said earlier that if anyone has ping issues (either from detonation or pre-ignition, especially the latter) the colder plug can help. I welcome a discussion saying otherwise.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Hmmm, I have run colder plugs in many cars and never had issues. I guess others have read or had different experiences. Joe, why do iron heads matter (you piqued my interest)?

I wouldn't run a 25 on an aluminum head is all. The aluminum can use a colder plug so in my opinion 24's should be better. I doubt a colder plug will benefit on iron heads since the heat is bottled up anyway. I have no proof other than my experience. With a power adder two range colder seem to work best.
 
VibrantRedGT said:
I wouldn't run a 25 on an aluminum head is all. The aluminum can use a colder plug so in my opinion 24's should be better. I doubt a colder plug will benefit on iron heads since the heat is bottled up anyway. I have no proof other than my experience. With a power adder two range colder seem to work best.
I would also never run a 25 on an aluminum head - where did that come from?
I thought we were talking about stock E7 heads in this thread (did I miss info saying otherwise?).

Running a colder plug on iron heads can help in my experience. You have not had luck with it and I have. I feel it is worth posting this so others can see differing opinions and know that it could be worthwhile. :cheers:
 
HISSIN50 said:
I would also never run a 25 on an aluminum head - where did that come from?
I thought we were talking about stock E7 heads in this thread (did I miss info saying otherwise?).

Running a colder plug on iron heads can help in my experience. You have not had luck with it and I have. I feel it is worth posting this so others can see differing opinions and know that it could be worthwhile. :cheers:

I actually have had luck with a colder plug on E7's. My point is there were no signs that the colder plug worked better then the stock range plug. Both performed the same.

The aluminum mention was just to state when to change to a colder plug if desired. A power adder is usually two ranges.
 
Gotcha' Joe. Thanks for clarifying.

See Joe, you told me something I never knew - I did not think anyone even ran the 20-series plugs (like 24's) on alum heads. I did not think they even fit correctly; I thought it was 764's, 3924's, etc that folks used instead.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Gotcha' Joe. Thanks for clarifying.

See Joe, you told me something I never knew - I did not think anyone even ran the 20-series plugs (like 24's) on alum heads. I did not think they even fit correctly; I thought it was 764's, 3924's, etc that folks used instead.



That's what I thought. I didn't know any alumiinum heads used 20 series plugs.

BTW .... I run 1 heat range colder in my iron heads (Motorcraft). They are index fitted & side-gapped FWIW. These are excellent. I'm trying the Autolite 24's next, though. I will index fit & side-gap those as well.
 
using 24s with FRPP wires....the blue ones....cause u know that blue wires in a blue oval ford work better.....

i'm going to get new wires soon and i'm either getting the AFM ones or the MSDs. i haven't decided yet.
 
My motor is still all stock, but i just got bosch wires, 25's, duralast cap, rotor, and coil. But it helped my car alot i got about 4-5 miles per gallon better gas mileage, and helped with pinging. I Know there is better stuff out there, but i just got what i had the money for at the time.