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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Polished Valve covers for the GT?

  • Thread starter Thread starter briankmagby
  • Start date Start date Jan 20, 2006
B

briankmagby

New Member
Feb 22, 2004
2
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0
Jan 20, 2006
#1
  • Jan 20, 2006
  • #1
Anyone know if their are any polished after-market valve covers for the new Mustang GT? The Mustang needs more dress-up items for under the hood, like “Polished” or “Powered by Ford” valve covers! With the old 5.0's, you could really dress up the engine, but the new GT looks pretty boring under the hood. Anyone have any info if there is anything out there or on the way?

Thanks.
 
T

thump_rrr

New Member
Nov 25, 2004
220
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0
Montreal, Canada
Jan 21, 2006
#2
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #2
briankmagby said:
Anyone know if their are any polished after-market valve covers for the new Mustang GT? The Mustang needs more dress-up items for under the hood, like “Polished” or “Powered by Ford” valve covers! With the old 5.0's, you could really dress up the engine, but the new GT looks pretty boring under the hood. Anyone have any info if there is anything out there or on the way?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Polish your own. That's what I did.


 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 21, 2006
#3
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #3
briankmagby said:
Anyone know if their are any polished after-market valve covers for the new Mustang GT? The Mustang needs more dress-up items for under the hood, like “Polished” or “Powered by Ford” valve covers! With the old 5.0's, you could really dress up the engine, but the new GT looks pretty boring under the hood. Anyone have any info if there is anything out there or on the way?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
ford racing has advertised them, but i am not sure if they are available yet. they were expensive too.
 
B

briankmagby

New Member
Feb 22, 2004
2
0
0
Jan 21, 2006
#4
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #4
thump_rrr, yours look nice, how did you do it? Did you have to remove the valve covers to polish them, or did you just do it with them on the car? Also what did you use to do it; I have never polished any aluminum. Thanks.

Bigcat, thanks for the info, I will keep a look out for them.
 

4511.21

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
26
0
1
Mason, OH
Jan 21, 2006
#5
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #5
Some have been getting them powder coated as well...a lot cheaper than buying new ones. I painted my own...Ford Blue.

Here are some chrome ones that I have seen on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...33627QQitemZ8027752930QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
 
N

NorthwestGT

New Member
Jan 11, 2006
177
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0
Pasco, WA
Jan 21, 2006
#6
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #6
The FRPP catalog says they are available. They're expensive, but not a whole lot more than what BBK was charging for the SN-95 cam covers. I think the regular ones were about $250 and the chrome-look ones were like $350 a pair. They're on my list.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 21, 2006
#7
  • Jan 21, 2006
  • #7
heres the part #s for the ford racing valve covers:

m-6582-c543v powdercoated for chrome appearance
m-6582-3vb blue
m-6582-3vblk black wrinkle
m-6582-3vs silver
 

RandyB

New Member
Feb 20, 2004
307
0
0
Tx.
Jan 22, 2006
#8
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #8
I already received a set of FRPP silver cam covers and sent them back because the quality of the finish was disappointing at best. FYI, the silver ones look like 'primer wrinkle'. I was anticipating a smooth metallic silver similar to the factory 4V cam covers. There was no description available anywhere other than 'silver'. I just paid more for a bare set from Ford and I'm currently in the process of smoothing out all of the casting marks prior to painting/coating. I'm looking for a paint code for the Ford Cobra silver color if anyone happens to know it.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 22, 2006
#9
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #9
RandyB said:
I'm looking for a paint code for the Ford Cobra silver color if anyone happens to know it.
Click to expand...
what year? it does make a difference.
 

RandyB

New Member
Feb 20, 2004
307
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0
Tx.
Jan 22, 2006
#10
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #10
bigcat said:
what year? it does make a difference.
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the paint code for the 4V valve cover paint just to clarify. How about '03 or '04?
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 22, 2006
#11
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #11
RandyB said:
I'm talking about the paint code for the 4V valve cover paint just to clarify. How about '03 or '04?
Click to expand...
i dont think you will find a specific code for it. ford doesnt list a code for stuff like that. interior and exterior paint codes is all you will find. i guess you would have to get one from somewhere and have a paint supplier use their computer color analyzer to come up with a formula for it. any good paint supplier shoulf be able to do this for you, and shouldnt cost any more than just the regular paint.
 

RandyB

New Member
Feb 20, 2004
307
0
0
Tx.
Jan 22, 2006
#12
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #12
Thanks for the info. Anyone have a 4V valve cover laying around I can color match? I should have kept my '98 Cobra around for a little while longer.
 
Z

zoomerman46

New Member
Apr 12, 2005
20
0
1
Glastonbury CT
Jan 23, 2006
#13
  • Jan 23, 2006
  • #13
For what it's worth If your going to spend all that money $250-$399 for replacements and your going to spend the time and effort to remove the original ones you might as well find a someone to take them to and either get them powder coated or ceramic coated.I just took mine off, a really big pain in the A**.I am having them ceramic coated with a chrome finish for about $95.00 Much cheaper that replacements.Think they will be more durable and the finish will last longer.
 
N

NorthwestGT

New Member
Jan 11, 2006
177
0
0
Pasco, WA
Jan 23, 2006
#14
  • Jan 23, 2006
  • #14
I think you're right Zoomer. I actually used a little Flitz polish on one area of mine and the originals would probably just polish up pretty good. But, powedercoating or ceramic coating should look good. The problem is getting them off. There's a lot of spaghetti connected in and around the cam covers and the back nuts look like they'll be fun to get loose.

Some guy on the Corral Forums said it took him just 20 min. to get them off. I don't think so.
 

andyman

New Member
Jan 22, 2006
1
0
0
Jan 26, 2006
#15
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #15
Has anyone ever used this polish?

http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/usca/custom.html
 
T

thump_rrr

New Member
Nov 25, 2004
220
0
0
Montreal, Canada
Jan 27, 2006
#16
  • Jan 27, 2006
  • #16
NorthwestGT said:
I think you're right Zoomer. I actually used a little Flitz polish on one area of mine and the originals would probably just polish up pretty good. But, powedercoating or ceramic coating should look good. The problem is getting them off. There's a lot of spaghetti connected in and around the cam covers and the back nuts look like they'll be fun to get loose.

Some guy on the Corral Forums said it took him just 20 min. to get them off. I don't think so.
Click to expand...

It takes 20-30 min each to get them off.
It looks intimidating but it's really quite simple.
I removed the first one, wet sanded it down with 320, 600, 1000, and and, 2000 then hand polished it with aluminum mag wheel cleaner (eagle one) and reinstalled it in about 3 hours one morning before going off to work. Next time I'll try using the Mothers Power Ball.

LH Removal

Remove the air cleaner assembly and outlet pipe.

Remove the LH ignition coils.

Remove the oil level indicator and tube.

Disconnect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) tube from the intake manifold.

Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube.

Disconnect the LH variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid electrical connector and detach the 2 wiring harness pin-type retainers.

Detach the 2 wiring harness retainers from the valve cover stud bolts.

Loosen the 15 fasteners and remove the LH valve cover and gasket.


RH Removal

Remove the RH ignition coils.

Detach the wiring harness retainer from the engine front cover stud bolt.

Disconnect the RH variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid electrical connector.

Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) tube from the RH valve cover.

Detach the 4 wiring harness retainers from the valve cover stud bolts.

Loosen the 14 fasteners and remove the RH valve cover and gasket.

No offense to anyone but the difficulty level is only one notch above replacing your intake.
 

LV51FER

New Member
Oct 25, 2005
318
0
0
Caerphilly, Wales, UK
Jan 27, 2006
#17
  • Jan 27, 2006
  • #17
There are a few plenum covers about like this one
www.midwestautogear.com
 

BandorConcepts

New Member
Feb 11, 2007
4
0
0
Mar 14, 2007
#18
  • Mar 14, 2007
  • #18
If, you want to go retro. I did mine in Ford Blue DE-1601 for about $12.00. Check them out here and let me know what you think? http://bryanandrus.com/camcovers/
 
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