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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

poor mans 5 lug swap?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ryan218
  • Start date Start date Aug 9, 2006
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ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Aug 9, 2006
#1
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #1
hey i have a question. i want to convert to 5 lug........but first i would like to see what it looks like before i got threw all the work. yeah i know.

anyways, i have seen before the adaptors that you bolt onto the car with 4 lugs then it has 5 studs on it that you put the wheels on.

i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get a set....

rubbing would be the biggest problem i think i would have....

i would just like to see how they would look on my car.... before i buy all the stuff i need. looked at a list and went .

anyone know where i can get some of these?

and if i do like the wheels ect i do plan on doing it the right way after i save up a lot of money for it. with a new rear end ect...

thanks
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#2
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #2
Double post...sorry.
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#3
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #3
Why don't you save up your money and do it right the first time? It's cheaper that way.
 

GreatWhite

Member
Feb 24, 2006
232
1
17
Fairfield, PA
Aug 9, 2006
#4
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #4
Yeah, you wouldn't want to opt for a cheaper route and end up having to replace something major down the road... or have to have your car towed somewhere because a wheel fell off or something haha
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Aug 9, 2006
#5
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #5
1slowfiveoh said:
Why don't you save up your money and do it right the first time? It's cheaper that way.
Click to expand...
i know that but the factor is that my dad don't want to jump into doing that anytime soon.

just the front stuff i need i can get for 250 but the rear Axel is the one thing i wasn't really looking forward to doing.

i know it would be cheaper to do it the first time but i just would like to see how it would look first on my car ect. plus i think my whole suspension would need upgraded becasue it would have 17 inch wheels and that it would rub really bad. my shocks are REALLY soft.( smooth ride)
 

grey5.0beast

Cookies should never be DUNKED!!!
Aug 3, 2004
0
1
0
atl ga
Aug 9, 2006
#6
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #6
I thought u wanted a 5.0? save all ur money, there would be no point of doing a 5 lug with this car , 1. when you can't drive it and 2. You always complain about having it. Save up, you might make enough money to buy a 5.0 and 5 lug.
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#7
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #7
I'll tell you this, Doing the Cobra brake conversion was not only the most expensive upgrade I have done to the car.....it was the BEST upgrade I have done to the car. Good brakes are not cheap but you can do the upgrade cheaper than you saw mine done for. Utilize wrecking yards and Ebay. I bought all new parts because I am OCD about new parts. If you need any help with the conversion let me know but please don't do the "adapter" route....not a good idea.
 

68torinogt

Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Mar 21, 2006
0
0
53
Welcome my son, welcome to the machine
Aug 9, 2006
#8
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #8
1slowfiveoh said:
Why don't you save up your money and do it right the first time? It's cheaper that way.
Click to expand...
you cant run all the wheel options if you "cheap it out" by running the rotors with the bearings in them.
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Aug 9, 2006
#9
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #9
thats what i planed to do but I'm 14 and the only work i can do is yard work. so it would take a long time to save up enough money to do the 5 lug swap.

yes grey5.0beast i so want a 5.0. but with a 5.0 i would need a 8.8 rear and a bigger brakes. i miss well upgrade the stuff i can to get ready for the 5.0 when it comes time to drop one in.
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#10
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #10
grey5.0beast said:
I thought u wanted a 5.0? save all ur money, there would be no point of doing a 5 lug with this car , 1. when you can't drive it and 2. You always complain about having it. Save up, you might make enough money to buy a 5.0 and 5 lug.
Click to expand...

Good point.

If I had my car to do over again, I would do it in this order:

Suspension
Brakes
Wheels/tires
beef up rear end
transmission
then power goodies.

Start with a good foundation, then build your house...If not, things break.

Good luck man!
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Aug 9, 2006
#11
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #11
1slowfiveoh said:
I'll tell you this, Doing the Cobra brake conversion was not only the most expensive upgrade I have done to the car.....it was the BEST upgrade I have done to the car. Good brakes are not cheap but you can do the upgrade cheaper than you saw mine done for. Utilize wrecking yards and Ebay. I bought all new parts because I am OCD about new parts. If you need any help with the conversion let me know but please don't do the "adapter" route....not a good idea.
Click to expand...



what would be the best way to go about getting the parts for the 5 lug swap?

just buying what i can when i can?
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#12
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #12
ryan218 said:
thats what i planed to do but I'm 14 and the only work i can do is yard work. so it would take a long time to save up enough money to do the 5 lug swap.
Click to expand...

Take your time with your car then man. If you are only 14 (not a slam) then you have plenty of time to save your money for the conversion and whatever else you want (5.0 maybe?). Since your income comes only from yard work, birthdays, and holidays, budget your money wisely and don't lose sight of your goals. Make a list of what you want in order of importance, save for it and check the list off as you go. Your better off where you are then where most of us are, up to our ears in CC debt so save all the cash you can.

I know its hard seeing all the nice Mustangs people have on this site, but you have to understand it didn't come over-night. Your better off where you are then where most of us are, up to our ears in CC debt. So save all the cash you can.


Justin

PS- Not to sound preachy, but I saw the other thread about drinking and you are better off not drinking especially being so young. Man I am getting old. Sorry about that.
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#13
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #13
ryan218 said:
what would be the best way to go about getting the parts for the 5 lug swap?

just buying what i can when i can?
Click to expand...


Absolutely!!!!!!!! I downloaded the M-2300-K brake kit installation instructions and used the parts list as a checkoff sheet. I didn't have to buy the exact part numbers on the list but at least you will know what you need and what you have left to buy once you start checking them off.

Do the research man.......I will give you some links that might help you in you conversion. This is originally from a PM I sent to another member here:

Just to warn you, this is going to be a long response. I went with all new parts except for the booster which I got off of Ebay for $45 and the '95 spindles which I got for $150 locally. I bought new hubs from Ford which cost $75 each. I ordered the 5 lug SN95 length axles from summit which are Alloy USA brand for $209. The wheels I price matched to $95 each at summit, the price came from (PM me for location)and saved about $65 on shipping. I ordered new hard lines with the correct fittings for the rear from Daves Mustang Parts off Ebay for $50 (to make my life easier so no cutting lines and re-flaring). The front 13" rotors are Brembo brand which I got for $145 for the pair off of tire rack. The rear rotors I got with the M-2300-M kit which came with rear rotors, rear caliper brackets and dust shields for $170 from Summit. The rear calipers are from Summit and the fronts are the Mach 1 PBR calipers and I found those at Stangsuspension.com for like $165 I think. The SS braided lines I got from Maximum Motorsports. The Cobra M/C I got from ebay for $95 brand new. The E-brake cables I got from Summit. The hardware I got from Ford....oh yeah, you will need to get new spindle nuts (most likely from Ford) because they are one time use pieces and they were about $20 a piece. You will also need a 3-2 master cylinder conversion and I would suggest getting that from Maximum Motorsports too (easy to install but it was like $40. To me it was worth it just for ease of install) I also installed new FRPP A-arms while I was in there and I price matched them at Summit from (PM me for the location) for $179.

I will tell you the two most pain in the ass part of the whole installation for me......

1. The Brake booster because it is quite a bit larger than the stock one and the upper mounting nuts are a pain to get too because of lack of room to work under the dash.

2. The E-brake mods and attaching the new front E-brake cable to the handbrake assembly. We notched the bracket a bit to make it easier to move the cable into position.

My thread to the brakes is: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=651765

My advice is, figure out what wheels you want to go with so you can choose what length axles you need to run. I chose 17x8 so I went with SN95 length. If you go with 17x9 it is advised to go with stock length axles and use the bracket from http://www.northracecars.com/catalog/brakes/brakes.htm .

Here are some links that might help you a bit in your parts seach and your install.

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

Here are the 3 installation insructions I went off of which I would advise you study hard to make installation go much smoother so you know what to expect.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html
http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/underhood.html

and this is the link to the actual FRPP M-2300-K cobra brake installation instructions (warning: for the most part, it is fairly vague but it does have some good pictures in it.):
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-2300-K.pdf

I would use the M-2300-k parts list as a check off sheet so you know what to buy and so you know what you already have. It helps immensely.

For the ball joint spacer, just use a stack of 3, 5/8 ID thrust washers and it should space the castle nut up enough so you don't run out of threads if you use a fox ball joint. The total space should be around .330" and that should be about what 3 washers would be.

Check out those installation instructions (all 3 of them) and if you have any more questions, feel free to email me at pinggolfer1978@sbcglobal.net

If you need more detail let me know I and I will be happy to help you further.

I am sure I forgot some stuff but this PM is about long enough for now.

Just know what you need before you start buying parts and do yourself a favor and go with '94-'95 spindles.

As I said before, if you have ANY questions let me know!!!!!

Sincerely,

Justin

PS-The brakes are the best upgrade for the money so congrats on wanting to be able to stop.


START READING!!! Also, print out those 3 installation instruction for quick reference!
 

68torinogt

Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Mar 21, 2006
0
0
53
Welcome my son, welcome to the machine
Aug 9, 2006
#14
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #14
1slowfiveoh said:
Good point.

If I had my car to do over again, I would do it in this order:

Suspension
Brakes
Wheels/tires
beef up rear end
transmission
then power goodies.

Start with a good foundation, then build your house...If not, things break.

Good luck man!
Click to expand...
im going with looks, then brakes, suspension, etc.
 

68torinogt

Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Mar 21, 2006
0
0
53
Welcome my son, welcome to the machine
Aug 9, 2006
#15
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #15
1slowfiveoh said:
Absolutely!!!!!!!! I downloaded the M-2300-K brake kit installation instructions and used the parts list as a checkoff sheet. I didn't have to buy the exact part numbers on the list but at least you will know what you need and what you have left to buy once you start checking them off.

Do the research man.......I will give you some links that might help you in you conversion. This is originally from a PM I sent to another member here:

Just to warn you, this is going to a long response. I went with all new parts except for the booster which I got off of Ebay for $45 and the '95 spindles which I got for $150 locally. I bought new hubs from Ford which cost $75 each. I ordered the 5 lug SN95 length axles from summit which are Alloy USA brand for $209. The wheels I price matched to $95 each at summit, the price came from stangsuspension.com and saved about $65 on shipping. I ordered new hard lines with the correct fittings for the rear from Daves Mustang Parts off Ebay for $50 (to make my life easier so no cutting lines and re-flaring). The front 13" rotors are Brembo brand which I got for $145 for the pair off of tire rack. The rear rotors I got with the M-2300-M kit which came with rear rotors, rear caliper brackets and dust shields for $170 from Summit. The rear calipers are from Summit and the fronts are the Mach 1 PBR calipers and I found those at Stangsuspension.com for like $165 I think. The SS braided lines I got from Maximum Motorsports. The Cobra M/C I got from ebay for $95 brand new. The E-brake cables I got from Summit. The hardware I got from Ford....oh yeah, you will need to get new spindle nuts (most likely from Ford) because they are one time use pieces and they were about $20 a piece. You will also need a 3-2 master cylinder conversion and I would suggest getting that from Maximum Motorsports too (easy to install but it was like $40. To me it was worth it just for ease of install) I also installed new FRPP A-arms while I was in there and I price matched them at Summit from stangsuspension for $179.

I will tell you the two most pain in the ass part of the whole installation for me......

1. The Brake booster because it is quite a bit larger than the stock one and the upper mounting nuts are a pain to get too because of lack of room to work under the dash.

2. The E-brake mods and attaching the new front E-brake cable to the handbrake assembly. We notched the bracket a bit to make it easier to move the cable into position.

My thread to the brakes is: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=651765

My advice is, figure out what wheels you want to go with so you can choose what length axles you need to run. I chose 17x8 so I went with SN95 length. If you go with 17x9 it is advised to go with stock length axles and use the bracket from http://www.northracecars.com/catalog/brakes/brakes.htm .

Here are some links that might help you a bit in your parts seach and your install.

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

Here are the 3 installation insructions I went off of which I would advise you study hard to make installation go much smoother so you know what to expect.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html
http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/underhood.html

and this is the link to the actual FRPP M-2300-K cobra brake installation instructions (warning: for the most part, it is fairly vague but it does have some good pictures in it.):
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...htM-2300-K.pdf

I would use the M-2300-k parts list as a check off sheet so you know what to buy and so you know what you already have. It helps immensely.

For the ball joint spacer, just use a stack of 3, 5/8 ID thrust washers and it should space the castle nut up enough so you don't run out of threads if you use a fox ball joint. The total space should be around .330" and that should be about what 3 washers would be.

Check out those installation instructions (all 3 of them) and if you have any more questions, feel free to email me at pinggolfer1978@sbcglobal.net

If you need more detail let me know I and I will be happy to help you further.

I am sure I forgot some stuff but this PM is about long enough for now.

Just know what you need before you start buying parts and do yourself a favor and go with '94-'95 spindles.

As I said before, if you have ANY questions let me know!!!!!

Sincerely,

Justin

PS-The brakes are the best upgrade for the money so congrats on wanting to be able to stop.


START READING!!! Also, print out those 3 installation instruction for quick reference!
Click to expand...
i was going to do this but i decided to go with the kit and spend the extra couple of hundred bucks and not worry about if i have everything and its all new.
 

mustangsally93

New Member
Sep 26, 2005
281
0
0
Omaha,NE
Aug 9, 2006
#16
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #16
I'll trade you. I got a 88 5.0 from a guy who just wanted to sell it. I got it cheep. It needs a little work getting the motor back to perfect, but it can be done. I want a 4 eyed fox.
 

1slowfiveoh

New Member
Jun 15, 2006
47
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Aug 9, 2006
#17
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #17
68torinogt said:
i was going to do this but i decided to go with the kit and spend the extra couple of hundred bucks and not worry about if i have everything and its all new.
Click to expand...

For someone who can afford to drop the $2k at one time, the kits are great. Ryan218 is on a strict and limited budget so he is going to have to piece it together with mostly used parts.

Glad to hear you decided to do the kit though. Find the best price on it yet???
 

68torinogt

Hey guys, guess what--I have a bi-pass!!!
Mar 21, 2006
0
0
53
Welcome my son, welcome to the machine
Aug 9, 2006
#18
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #18
1900 was the cheapest but its all going to end up costing about 3200 for wheels and tires since the ponies wont fit.
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Aug 9, 2006
#19
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #19
mustangsally93 said:
I'll trade you. I got a 88 5.0 from a guy who just wanted to sell it. I got it cheep. It needs a little work getting the motor back to perfect, but it can be done. I want a 4 eyed fox.
Click to expand...



 

1993SSP

Founding Member
Sep 5, 2001
1,194
0
37
Ky
Aug 9, 2006
#20
  • Aug 9, 2006
  • #20
Why dont you just buy a complete 5 lug from me im parting out a 93 GT that has the 5 lug conversion on it. PM me if interested, selling everything for the front and the complete rear end from drum to drum, also has stainless braided brake lines. I'm 4.5 hrs from columbus
 
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