Por 15 on undercarage

65'Pony · Jul 15, 2005

The undercarage of my 65' has some surface rust, I wanted to clean it up with por 15 to protect from more rust, Do I have to remove the old rust and then put the por 15 on it or can I just paint right over the rust? Will the rust keep growing if I just paint over it?

firepig · Jul 15, 2005

Sorta

I friend of mine just did it and I'm preparing to. You can wire brush it, but it doesn't have to be perfectly clean. In fact if you clean it too much, you have to us a pretreatment.

I believe they go into the application on their website. Just Google POR 15

68converted · Jul 15, 2005

I just did the entire underside. Yup, just wire wheel it, get the dust off and paint away. Word from the experienced: wear long sleeve shirts, gloves, and glasses or goggles. It takes about one week to get it off your skin. I used the foam brushes; cheap and they hold the liquid until applied. I also did the rear axle, front suspension parts and spring perches.

Platonic Solid · Jul 15, 2005

Por15 is a multi-step process. Degrease, rinse thoroughly, Acid etch, rinse thoroughly, allow to completely dry, apply 1st coat por15, wait a few hours, apply 2nd coat por15, (optional->) apply por15 topcoat.

Though most here have seen these, here's some before-during-after shots of my Por15'd trunk.

Carnivore · Jul 15, 2005

When I POR15'd my floorpans I wasnt sure about the complete process.. I followed the instructions as closely as I could but they didnt seem complete. I wasnt sure if I was supposed to rinse off the Rust converter stuff or what, and some other things that I forget. It was over a year ago and I forget a great many thing.

So a person needs to rinse well between everything? rinse with what, just water? Will that cause any flash rust to worry about? Is there a good writup somewhere about it? .. Nice pics BTW. It looks great.

Note: The POR15 still turned out great on my floors.

Platonic Solid · Jul 15, 2005

Rinse everything with water. Yes, flash rust develops, but that's fine as it actually helps Por15 adhere. The instructions they supply in their booklet and catalog (it's probably on their site too) are pretty complete. If you still have questions you can call them, I've always found them helpful.

User Name · Jul 15, 2005

What is Por15? Is it like a potent rustoleum or just rust converter. Did you paint the trunk in the mach or is that how that stuff looks?

1965-Mustang · Jul 15, 2005

I used Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator in my trunk which seems to have less prep work involved. I have never used POR-15 before though. I planned on using it on the underside also. I was thinking washing, wire wheel or stiff wire brush, washing, then Rust Encapsulator. I really liked how it turned out and would put up some pics of it if wanted.

Carnivore · Jul 15, 2005

I want I want I want! Pics!

Platonic Solid · Jul 16, 2005

User Name said:
What is Por15? Is it like a potent rustoleum or just rust converter. Did you paint the trunk in the mach or is that how that stuff looks?

It's worth reading through the Por15 FAQ Page.

The "After" pics have Por15 topcoat applied, however the rust preventative Por15 (available in a couple different colors) has a similar appearance. To see the difference in appearance, take a look at the last 2 pictures on this page. The wheel well is topcoated, but the Por15'd brake drum is not.

edit: I think it's important to note that everything was done with paint brushes, not sprayed. Por15 rust prevetative paint is very thin, so it's more like applying a stain (for those familiar with wood working) than a paint. Thus, it seeps into everything and a small amount covers a large area.
.

1965-Mustang · Jul 16, 2005

Well this is how it turned out for me. I was not going for complete cosmetics as I am planning on covering it all up, and most of my trunk is fiberglass from p/o anyways. Im 17 and with limited knowledge and tool access this is the result:

View attachment 509463

View attachment 509465

View attachment 509467

70vert · Jul 23, 2005

Better than I was doing at 17

nice job. But what is that line on the driver's side of the trunk where there is a still a bit of rust? I'll probably use Eastwood too, based on the slightly lower cost, 1 less prep step, and easier application, according to this here article:

http://eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

maybe this guy is in Eastwood's back pocket but it seems worth a try. But what's with that bit of rust?

70vert · Jul 23, 2005

Thanks Platonic

Thanks for posting that again. I am going to get my 'vert back after floor pans being done and then attack the rest of the underbody coating and surface rust with your Peel Away system. Gonna go with Eastwood encapsulator after that, though, I think.
I think you just helped me with my green tile fireplace that somebody painted over and I never got all of it off - didn't know Peel Away was good for masonry too, thanks!

Platonic Solid said:
It's worth reading through the Por15 FAQ Page.

The "After" pics have Por15 topcoat applied, however the rust preventative Por15 (available in a couple different colors) has a similar appearance. To see the difference in appearance, take a look at the last 2 pictures on this page. The wheel well is topcoated, but the Por15'd brake drum is not.

edit: I think it's important to note that everything was done with paint brushes, not sprayed. Por15 rust prevetative paint is very thin, so it's more like applying a stain (for those familiar with wood working) than a paint. Thus, it seeps into everything and a small amount covers a large area.
.

Platonic Solid · Jul 24, 2005

70vert said:
Thanks for posting that again. I am going to get my 'vert back after floor pans being done and then attack the rest of the underbody coating and surface rust with your Peel Away system. Gonna go with Eastwood encapsulator after that, though, I think.
I think you just helped me with my green tile fireplace that somebody painted over and I never got all of it off - didn't know Peel Away was good for masonry too, thanks!

I haven't tried Peelaway on stone or masonry yet, but I'd still stay with Peelaway 7, as apposed to Peelaway 1, to avoid any possible chemical staining. I did test patches under the stove when I did a hardwood kitchen floor. Peelaway 1 chemically burned the wood, giving it a greyish tint (it looked really nasty). Peelaway 7 had no negative chemical reaction, thus left the wood its natural color.

70vert · Jul 24, 2005

Thanks, I was going to go with 7

based on their website. Just get a tub of Peel Away 7, then after I'm finished with the wheelwells and anywhere else that is undercoated, use the remainder to try out on the fireplace. If there's any left after THAT, I'll go try it on some local graffiti.

blascrw · Jul 24, 2005

Eastwoods...

I can tell you from first hand experience...I really likes the eastwoods...

I ad new floor pans put in, used eastwoods seam sealer over the welds, and then sprayed the rust encapsulator.

I thinned the RE about 30% using laquer thinner ( if I recall) I have a cheap compressor and gun (lowes compressor and accessory kit). It turned out pretty darn good.

I will try to post some pics in the next few days.

It sprayed well, and did not clog. It was kinda "gummy" at the end. But hey...it was a cheap gun

I am very happy with it.

I think I am borrowing a lift at a local shop... dropping exhaust, trans, and rearend and do the under carriage.

debating on bead blasting...

They have an outdoor lift also...

So who knows....

Just thought I would share...

Ron

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