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Post-stripping rust prevention

  • Thread starter Thread starter JC6715
  • Start date Start date Apr 22, 2008
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JC6715

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Oct 24, 2005
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Hillsboro, Oregon
Apr 22, 2008
#1
  • Apr 22, 2008
  • #1
Is there anything besides primer that could be put on bare metal panels to prevent rust until I can properly epoxy primer my '67?

I am hoping for some sort of chemical that could be sprayed on the bare metal to block rust, then cleaned off while prepping for paint...

Deal is, my uncle is letting me use his paint booth, but i need to have it completely stripped before I take it to his place. I don't have the equipment for spraying a proper epoxy primer. I'm hoping it will only be a couple weeks to a month between stripping and priming...

I know my bro's Model A frame was shipped soaked in WD40 to prevent rust between the supplier and my brother, would that work for me?

Thanks guys!
 
T

truck90278

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Jun 4, 2006
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Redondo Beach, CA
Apr 22, 2008
#2
  • Apr 22, 2008
  • #2
don't suggest WD 40 because it will seep in between overlapped panels and cause future problems no matter how much you try to clean it off. If you pick up an inexpensive gun you should be able to shoot a sealer coat over the bare metal. check with your local automotive paint supplier for recommendations.
 

CraigMBA

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Mar 24, 2007
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Apr 22, 2008
#3
  • Apr 22, 2008
  • #3
Just shoot it in etching primer. You can get it out of a rattle can and it bonds only to bare metal. Top coat it with epoxy primer later.
 

jb1dsl

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May 24, 2004
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Marianna, Fl.
Apr 23, 2008
#4
  • Apr 23, 2008
  • #4
This stuff works great for what you need it too do.
http://www.picklex.com/products.htm
 

JC6715

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Apr 23, 2008
#5
  • Apr 23, 2008
  • #5
Great, thanks a lot guys.
 

RogerC62

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Apr 23, 2008
#6
  • Apr 23, 2008
  • #6
I use POR15 metal ready.

http://www.por15.com/
 

Platonic Solid

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May 29, 2002
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Apr 23, 2008
#7
  • Apr 23, 2008
  • #7
JC6715 said:
I know my bro's Model A frame was shipped soaked in WD40 to prevent rust between the supplier and my brother, would that work for me?
Click to expand...
Nothing could be be worse for causing possible future paint disasters. Due to the potential of paint contamination, the owner of the company I work for won't let WD40 in the building.

jb1dsl said:
This stuff works great for what you need it too do.
http://www.picklex.com/products.htm
Click to expand...
Interesting. What the heck is it though? Would it have to be removed prior to paint to ensure compatibility. I gotta say, I wouldn't trust it as it's not likely to be supported or recommended by the paint manufacturer you choose.

If you're going through all the trouble of taking the car down to bare metal, do it right. First decide exactly what paint you're going to use. Then follow all their recommendations without exception. If the answer to your question isn't available in their instructions, contact the manufacturer.
 

CraigMBA

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#8
  • Apr 23, 2008
  • #8
All of my customers that build street rods out of pieces of sheet metal do so by spraying virgin metal pannels with WD40 so they don't rust in the years it takes to build a car. They are all well aware of it's effects on future paint, and so are the people who paint.

That said, if I had a production body shop, there's not a snowballs chance in bermuda that I'm gonna let in WD-40 or Silicone tire dressing.

I wouldn't use POR-15 on anything other than a battery tray. I hate the stuff. YMMV.
 

Platonic Solid

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#9
  • Apr 23, 2008
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Por 15 Metal Ready is just phosphoric acid used for metal prep - which happens to be right in line with what major paint suppliers such as PPG recommend.
 
D

danny clemens

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#10
  • Apr 24, 2008
  • #10
jb1dsl said:
This stuff works great for what you need it too do.
http://www.picklex.com/products.htm
Click to expand...

I've read posts on www.hotrodders.com that say it works but a guy that posts on there that manufactures paint doesn't want people to use it under his paint. It may be because if something goes wrong he doesn't want to be liable for the paint.

If you have or can get a small compressor and a paint gun I'd go ahead and epoxy it. It doesn't take much of an oufit to spray primer. I've saw people do it outdoors.
 

jb1dsl

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Apr 24, 2008
#11
  • Apr 24, 2008
  • #11
Yeah, you can get by using a small compressor for primer. I would primer it as I go that is what I did and I primed it outside. You will be sanding this primer down down anyway, so if you get some trash in it you will be fine.
 

CraigMBA

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Apr 25, 2008
#12
  • Apr 25, 2008
  • #12
Platonic Solid said:
Por 15 Metal Ready is just phosphoric acid used for metal prep - which happens to be right in line with what major paint suppliers such as PPG recommend.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Metalprep is metal prep. POR-15 (the material) isn't my favorite.
 
K

kttrucks

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Apr 28, 2008
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Apr 29, 2008
#13
  • Apr 29, 2008
  • #13
Picklex 20 actually works well. It's the same principal as most metal preps; it converts the tiny rust particles on the base metal to a phosphate coating that prevents further rusting ( as long as the product is on the metal) at the same time as it gives primer and filler a good base to sit on. It wont hurt adhesion and as long as the panels are out of the weather it holds back rust.


No, I'm not a salesman.


Kevin Tetz
 

JC6715

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Oct 24, 2005
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Hillsboro, Oregon
Apr 29, 2008
#14
  • Apr 29, 2008
  • #14
Thanks for all the input guys, it's greatly appreciated!
 

woodsnake

15 Year Member
Jan 16, 2007
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Apr 29, 2008
#15
  • Apr 29, 2008
  • #15
I took an over the summer auto body program at BSU like, two years ago.
I'm going to swear that they said

"sealer, then primer"! Then what ever guide coat, etc.....
 

Platonic Solid

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#16
  • Apr 30, 2008
  • #16
kttrucks said:
Picklex 20 actually works well. It's the same principal as most metal preps; it converts the tiny rust particles on the base metal to a phosphate coating that prevents further rusting ( as long as the product is on the metal) at the same time as it gives primer and filler a good base to sit on. It wont hurt adhesion and as long as the panels are out of the weather it holds back rust.


No, I'm not a salesman.


Kevin Tetz
Click to expand...
Welcome to the Forum Kevin. It's been a while since I've watched your videos (great job BTW), what do you recommend for temporary pre-paint rust prevention for the home garage.
 

JC6715

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Oct 24, 2005
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Hillsboro, Oregon
Apr 30, 2008
#17
  • Apr 30, 2008
  • #17
Thanks again for the help guys!

Please check out my new thread about priming in a garage... http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=748256

Thanks!
 
R

rob289c

Member
Oct 18, 2005
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May 1, 2008
#18
  • May 1, 2008
  • #18
I stripped my car in 1995 and wiped it with Dupont Quik-Prep. It's a blue liquid. The car sat in the garage for 6 years, bare metal, never rusted. I recommend it.
 

jb1dsl

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May 24, 2004
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Marianna, Fl.
May 2, 2008
#19
  • May 2, 2008
  • #19
how are you going to strip yours? I finished stripping mine a little while back and now its at the body shop almost complete (FINALLY!!!!). Drop me a pm if you have any questions or I can send you some progress pics.
 

JC6715

Member
Oct 24, 2005
284
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Hillsboro, Oregon
May 2, 2008
#20
  • May 2, 2008
  • #20
jb1dsl said:
how are you going to strip yours? I finished stripping mine a little while back and now its at the body shop almost complete (FINALLY!!!!). Drop me a pm if you have any questions or I can send you some progress pics.
Click to expand...


I planned on using multiple methods, DA sander on flat parts, chemicals where the DA won't get...

How'd you do it?
 
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