Power Door Locks/Alarm

This is the cheap way to do the lock solenoids.
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/bloodybill/13%20Power%20Door%20Locks.htm
I've had no problems at all with them.
If you go to the junk yard to get the solenoids. Take a chisel and hammer, you have to knock out an aluminum rivet.

stangman67 said:

http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm

I have had great luck with the 2 door remote kit in a 78 f250, 84 tbird, and my 67 stang. Ive had no probs with these and its really nice quality. Door jamb drilling was tricky, but i found some nice door jamb rubber wire tubing somewhere, and it looks great and works great.

Click to expand...

When installing these door lock actuators, how did you mount the actuator?. I assume you did not drill any mounting holes where they would show.

I'm putting this remote kit in my car, http://www.electric-life.com/productdetails.asp?cid=869&rp=&yp=159.445

Here is a photo of an acuator on the bracket I made to attach it to the door. Two new holes are required, they will be covered by the door panel.

66HertzClone said:

I'm putting this remote kit in my car, http://www.electric-life.com/productdetails.asp?cid=869&rp=&yp=159.445

Here is a photo of an acuator on the bracket I made to attach it to the door. Two new holes are required, they will be covered by the door panel.

Click to expand...

I assume this actuator attaches to the door lock-rod with a "clamp" ? any problems hooking it up other than a little difficult to get in to it?

No, the getting to it was a pain but with a little practice it became pretty easy. I used a section of coathanger wire to mock up the needed rod, after I found the correct shape, it worked on the adjustment. Once I had figured out the mounting point for the clamp, I marked the lock rod (the one in the door) with a marker so I wouldn't have to play that game twice.

I bent the rod so the lock rod and actuator rod were side by side, this way the set screws in the clamp were facing towards the front of the car, easier to reach and see with a mirror I had placed inside the door. The rod I made was only about 2" or so long, any higher and I would have had problems due to the position of my window. I'm installing power windows at the same time, and the regulator are out of the door.

When you open my doors there are two stainless machine head screws near the lower portion under the striker, which mount the solenoid on the inside.

I assume you are using the same/similar kit. I assume your talking about the door jam side of the door. Thanks

stangman67 said:

When you open my doors there are two stainless machine head screws near the lower portion under the striker, which mount the solenoid on the inside.

Click to expand...

what year is you Mustang? On our 65, there does not appear to be much room do do it your way. Certainly sounds the best way if room permits.

I used this 2 door power door lock kit from A-1 - http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F - I have it hooked up to lock and unlock through my Viper Alarm key fob. Lock and alarm with one button, unlock and disarm with the other.

To tell the truth, I thought the installation was a PITA. The acuator rods seemed to flimsy and deflected, so I ended up using this installation method - http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=464237

Also, the actuator has more 'throw' then my door locks allow for. This made getting them adjusted difficult. If the adjustment was off, even a little, they would default to unlocked.

I ran a switch into my stock console -