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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Power Seat Problem Puzzle

  • Thread starter Thread starter joetrainer31
  • Start date Start date Jul 23, 2013
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joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
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Jul 23, 2013
#1
  • Jul 23, 2013
  • #1
Hello brainiacs,

As is common with the 94/98 Mustangs w/power seats I am experiencing power seat problems. However, I am a bit puzzled by the problem. I simply have no power going to the seat. Here is what I know through testing thus far:

1) All fuses under hood are fine.
2) All fuses under dash are fine.
3) Both power motors & seat switch are fine (connected jumpers straight from battery to seat connector).
4) Wire from under carpet shows no power.
5) Connector on wire from under carpet shows no power.

Please advise.
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2011
3,310
374
134
Between the Red and Rio
Jul 23, 2013
#2
  • Jul 23, 2013
  • #2
I know this is worthless and not helping you one ioda but my power seat in the 95 will go up and down but won't go forward or back with out pushing the button and pulling forward on the steering wheel moving the seat manually
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Jul 23, 2013
#3
  • Jul 23, 2013
  • #3
90lxwhite said:
I know this is worthless and not helping you one ioda but my power seat in the 95 will go up and down but won't go forward or back with out pushing the button and pulling forward on the steering wheel moving the seat manually
Click to expand...
Yours has chewed up the gears that move the seat forward. An aftermarket company sells a fix it kit for 100 bucks. OR grab one from a salvage yard like I did for 25.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Jul 23, 2013
#4
  • Jul 23, 2013
  • #4
joetrainer31 said:
Hello brainiacs,

As is common with the 94/98 Mustangs w/power seats I am experiencing power seat problems. However, I am a bit puzzled by the problem. I simply have no power going to the seat. Here is what I know through testing thus far:

1) All fuses under hood are fine.
2) All fuses under dash are fine.
3) Both power motors & seat switch are fine (connected jumpers straight from battery to seat connector).
4) Wire from under carpet shows no power.
5) Connector on wire from under carpet shows no power.

Please advise.
Click to expand...
Somewhere in the wires there is a fault. Nothing to do but start backprobing till you find that spot and fix it.
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2011
3,310
374
134
Between the Red and Rio
Jul 23, 2013
#5
  • Jul 23, 2013
  • #5
jcgafford said:
Yours has chewed up the gears that move the seat forward. An aftermarket company sells a fix it kit for 100 bucks. OR grab one from a salvage yard like I did for 25.
Click to expand...
Thanks man. So just get a new seat motor?
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
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Vernon BC
Jul 24, 2013
#6
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #6
90lxwhite said:
Thanks man. So just get a new seat motor?
Click to expand...
Doesn't sound like a motor issue. Rather an open circuit to the seat motor and/or worn drive gears.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
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Adrian, MI
Jul 24, 2013
#7
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #7
90lxwhite said:
Thanks man. So just get a new seat motor?
Click to expand...
No. Replace the whole power seat track. Its a total of eight bolts to remove and then reinstall.
 
Reactions: joetrainer31

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
869
364
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Jul 24, 2013
#8
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #8
jcgafford said:
No. Replace the whole power seat track. Its a total of eight bolts to remove and then reinstall.
Click to expand...
Yes, just replace the entire rack AFTER you have verified that it is not the switch. Try hooking up leads direct from your battery to the seat, attempt to operate up/dwn fwd/bck, and observe what is going on.

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm simply going to run a new wire from the fuse box to the seat. I don't want to cut into the tapped up harness underneath the carpet, thus I'll just secure a new wire to it.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
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Jul 24, 2013
#9
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #9
You can test that motor with a cordless drill battery it pulls hardly any juice
 

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
869
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Jul 24, 2013
#10
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #10
jcgafford said:
You can test that motor with a cordless drill battery it pulls hardly any juice
Click to expand...
Nice idea. Never thought of that.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
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Jul 24, 2013
#11
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #11
joetrainer31 said:
Nice idea. Never thought of that.
Click to expand...
Guy at the junkyard showed me that
 

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
869
364
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Jul 24, 2013
#12
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #12
jcgafford said:
Guy at the junkyard showed me that
Click to expand...
Guys at junkyards have many ideas. I think its due to lack of facilities and amenities (i.e., they improvise).
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
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Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 24, 2013
#13
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #13
90lxwhite said:
I know this is worthless and not helping you one ioda but my power seat in the 95 will go up and down but won't go forward or back with out pushing the button and pulling forward on the steering wheel moving the seat manually
Click to expand...

I had the same problem but my seat motor was fine. Over time the lithium grease on the screws thickens up and the motor isn't strong enough to move the seat. I would clean off as much grease on the screws as you can (a little left is OK), then re-grease the screws with white lithium grease. This may get your seat moving again.

If the seat moves very slowly after re-greasing the screws, then your motor is shot. You can replace the motor but I always found it to be a PITA.
 

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
869
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Jul 24, 2013
#14
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #14
Ok, so after confirming that there was a good ground for the pwr seat wire I followed the lead wire all the way back to the firewall and observed that it was dead until there. My choices at that point were to remove the fuse box under the dash and cut the wire bundle open to access the correct wire and replace it (HARD). OR, run a new wire from the positive battery terminal with an inline fuse and splice into the factory wiring under the carpet (EASIER). Which did I choose?
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2011
3,310
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Between the Red and Rio
Jul 24, 2013
#15
  • Jul 24, 2013
  • #15
Chythar said:
I had the same problem but my seat motor was fine. Over time the lithium grease on the screws thickens up and the motor isn't strong enough to move the seat. I would clean off as much grease on the screws as you can (a little left is OK), then re-grease the screws with white lithium grease. This may get your seat moving again.

If the seat moves very slowly after re-greasing the screws, then your motor is shot. You can replace the motor but I always found it to be a PITA.
Click to expand...
Thanks will give it a try
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 25, 2013
#16
  • Jul 25, 2013
  • #16
joetrainer31 said:
Ok, so after confirming that there was a good ground for the pwr seat wire I followed the lead wire all the way back to the firewall and observed that it was dead until there. My choices at that point were to remove the fuse box under the dash and cut the wire bundle open to access the correct wire and replace it (HARD). OR, run a new wire from the positive battery terminal with an inline fuse and splice into the factory wiring under the carpet (EASIER). Which did I choose?
Click to expand...

Good for you on doing the right thing! Cutting open the wire bundle was a good choice.

 

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
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Aug 9, 2013
#17
  • Aug 9, 2013
  • #17
Chythar said:
Good for you on doing the right thing! Cutting open the wire bundle was a good choice.

Click to expand...
I gotta admit to being a dummy. However, I also found an interesting issue.

Im a dummy because when I tested the fuse I only tested one side of it so it appeared fine. In reality I had only tested the blown side. Therefore, the wire had no power all the way up to the fuse box...duh!

Secondly, once I replaced the fuse the seat worked like new...UNTIL bolted it back in place. Once bolted in place the seat started acting sluggish and eventually died. Thus, I began unbolting it and messing with the pwr lever in order to reach the bolts. I found that after I listened the bolts a little, that the seat started working fine again.

I experimented with loosening and tightening while activating the controls and observed that if I tightened the bolts too gorilla tight that the seat would fail to operate, but if I loosened them a bit, it would work fine. My guess is that if the seat bolts are too tight that it may cause the seat track to bow or distort somewhere under the seat. I further surmise that the distortion of the seat track puts too much strain on the motors, they pull too much amperage, then they either blow the fuse, or repeated over time they burn themselves out. Either way loosening the bolts just a bit solved the entire problem once the fuse was replaced.

Thank you for all your input gentlemen.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Aug 12, 2013
#18
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #18
joetrainer31 said:
Either way loosening the bolts just a bit solved the entire problem once the fuse was replaced.

Thank you for all your input gentlemen.
Click to expand...

You should be able to tighten the bolts down tight without the seat track getting torqued that way. Is it possible you have the seat track on backwards? If I remember right, the motor should be towards the back of the seat, not the front.
 

joetrainer31

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2013
869
364
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Aug 12, 2013
#19
  • Aug 12, 2013
  • #19
Chythar said:
You should be able to tighten the bolts down tight without the seat track getting torqued that way. Is it possible you have the seat track on backwards? If I remember right, the motor should be towards the back of the seat, not the front.
Click to expand...
I agree about being able to tighten w/o an issue, but nonetheless the issue was corrected by backing off the bolt torque just a bit.

I never thought of the backwards issue. Good thinking. However, the motor is towards the rear of the seat, if I remember correctly.

Again, I'm only making an educated guess about the seat's issue because I cannot actually see what is going on with the track. All I am sure about is that loosening helped solve the problem. Its the "why" of the problem solving Im having to theorize about. Any further thoughts?
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Aug 13, 2013
#20
  • Aug 13, 2013
  • #20
Nope, all tapped out here.
 
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