Power Steering Leak
- Thread starter rustyruststang5
- Start date
The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.
Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.
You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.
Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.
You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.
pissedoff92
Member
Im having the same issue, only I tried as hard as I could to push the threaded connector back on the hard line and It wouldnt go back even far enough for me to see the o ring or groove for the o ring what so ever. Also why do you need to remove the whole rack to just put on a pressure line. And even so why not just replace the O ring if you can get the fitting to slide back enough?
It is very difficult to get to the fittings and you only get a 1/4 turn or less, even if you have the fancy 45/65 degree offset open end wrenches. You'll spend less time and frustration if you undo 4 bolts and tilt the rack down to where you can get a decent swing on the wrench.
My past experience was that the odds of the typical auto parts counter guy getting the correct O ring seem to be rather small. It isn't hard to find a correct part number for the hose assembly because it is in their counter computer system. No such luck with the O ring: no part number and no clues of were to look or what size or material it is made of. I replaced the top O ring on the pump hose fitting 4 or 5 times before I gave up and bought a new line. And , yes I did try different parts stores.
pissedoff92
Member
Is the O ring some fancy one? I too just ordered the pressure line though. Like I said I tried like hell on the top fitting and I couldnt slide the threaded fitting back enough to even see the O ring.
It's an ordinary looking O ring. The only special thing about it is the Auto Parts counter guys can't find the correct replacement O ring if you need one.
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