Power Steering woes

Hello everyone, been lurking here for about 6 months or so. First post though.

My 13 yr old son and I purchased a 66 coupe for us to restore, with some slight mods for him to drive when he comes of age. You know, brakes, some minor suspension, nothing to hot for him

It has the 200 I-6, automatic, and power steering, yes, it does have power steering. And right now this is our issue. The original pump leaked horribly, we purchased a re-build kit, tore it down and discovered it was beyond help... So after much searching we found a replacement pump. Junk yard item that it is. We decided to bolt it up without the re-build. We Will Be doing it now, I promise.

But the problem is this, right now, start the car, and the steering wheel spins right all the way to lock. No problem bringing it back to center or left, but let go, and she spins all the way right. :shrug:

Folks have said, lines are switched, but considering the connections, this is not possible. Unless I am missing something.

All advice is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Greg
 
normally when something like this happens it is because the lines at the control valve and the ram cylinder are crossed but if you didn't change those lines then you have something else going on, also if that was the case the wheel wouldn't return to center at all, it would jump around and go crazy and probably break your arm.

more than likely you need to adjust the control valve, the procedure for adjusting it is in the factory service manual, if you don't have the service manual you really need to get one, they have a wealth of info you just can't get anywhere else.

edit: also check out www.stangerssite.com for more info on the power steering system
 
From Stangers Site:
ADJUSTMENT
New and rebuilt control valves should already come adjusted when you get them and require no further adjustment. The only accessible adustment is found under the aluminum end cap on the far end of the valve. This consists of a nut on a threaded rod and controls the centering of the spool valve inside the valve housing. Many people think this nut should be turned down tight, like most nuts are supposed to be. However, this is an adjustment and is not supposed to be just tightened down.
This adjustment is misunderstood and played with to supposedly correct all sorts of problems associated with the control valve. However, all this adjustment does is center the spool in the housing. If it is misadjusted, the steering tends to provide power assist more in one direction than the other. When severely misadjusted, the wheels may actually turn one direction by themselves due to the imbalance. For this reason it is important not to tamper with this adjustment unless you know how to do it properly.
This adjustment has nothing to do with the tightness or looseness of the ball stud, the play in the valve assembly or the sensitivity of the system. Playing with the adjustment of the centering spring will probably violate your warranty. If you think that some adjustment needs to be made to your valve, always contact the supplier or rebuilder before proceding.

He doesen't give the spec here, but that nut gets tightened down in INCH pounds and backed off a quarter turn to start. It's tightened to a good snug fit. THen loosen it a quarter turn. Put the cap back on and see what you have. It would be safer to adjust with the car OFF, and the cap reinstalled, then test your setting. Adjustments are made in small increments. Meaning less than a quarter turn at a time. Until you get a centered valve adjustment and the steering balance is equal in both directions. You may not always achieve perfection here. There may be some degree of compromise. AND, AND, this assumes your valve is in good shape, the sleeve is not corroded and jammed, and everything is in at least good working order. THere is a grease fitting for the sleeve, but if it's rusted up and seized it's too late for the grease...it could also be stuck in one position. Watch the ball and sleeve while someone swings the steering wheel back and forth (car off). Not turning it lock to lock, just back and forth. You should be able to see the ball moving back and forth in the sleeve slightly under the car. It's not going to slop around (well it shouldn't but they can get that way...) but should be a distinct movement. If the ball does not move at all, it's jammed up in the sleeve. Order a rebuild kit and tear it apart. Just make sure the ball and sleeve are really jammed up before you tear it apart. I would bet on the adjustment forst, but if' it's been sitting awhile, it could be seized. You could also spray some PB Blaster or other stuff in the ball socket and work the wheel back and forth till it frees up if it's seized. At least make a few visual checks and let us know what you see.
 
Thanks guys,

We will be under the car tonight (my son wishes I got a spring break too)

And I will check the lines at the ram cylinder and control valve.

We purchased this car from someone who had already started work on it. An it is possible that they crossed them. We never disconnected the lines except at the pump.

I wish I had a resource like this when I restored my 51 F-1. For me it was all trial and error.

thanks,

Greg
 
Thanks guys,

We will be under the car tonight (my son wishes I got a spring break too)

And I will check the lines at the ram cylinder and control valve.

We purchased this car from someone who had already started work on it. An it is possible that they crossed them. We never disconnected the lines except at the pump.

I wish I had a resource like this when I restored my 51 F-1. For me it was all trial and error.

thanks,

Greg

Your lines sound like they are correct, here's a pic of mine for a refference to use.
If you do play around and switch them on the CV remember what bnickel said, that steering wheel will go crazy and will snap your arm w/ no problem. You could have air in the system that needs to work itself out:shrug:
Good luck, these steering problems are a pain.
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