Power to Manual Steering

I just went from power to manual steering on my V8 66 coupe. I removed the pump, the brackets, the hoses, the center link and hydraulic ram. I then simply installed a manual center link and aligned the front end.

By far the most difficult part of the task is removing the power steering center link. Some of the tapered fit bolts are difficult to get to to hit them with a hammer. A wedge would have been REALLY handy for removing these.
If you have the right tools it is no problem.

Oh yeah, the new center link was $74.95.
Located here:
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/classicmustangparts-c28s2.html
 
Very interesting. I had previously thought that this conversion was more expensive for some reason.

My headers are too close to the power steering boot which fits over the ram. The heat melts the boot. I was looking at replacing the headers anyway, but was not looking forward to trying to find a set to fit. I have a '65 Coupe with a 302. Maybe the answer is to get rid of the power steering set up and give me more options for headers.

What were your reasons for getting rid of the power steering? Does power steering rob much horsepower. What is it like to drive your Stang now without power steering?
 
I'm pretty sure you are going to need more parts than just a new center link. A pitman arm for example, and I don't think the inner tie rod end used on the left side of a P/Steering equiped car will clear the pitman arm when you convert to manual steering. See the question damannhw asked below about the F/R gear and shelby quick steer kit.
 
You'll need both inner tie rods, one outer (both would be better), center link, pitman arm, and idler arm.

All told can be done for undeer 250.00 Oh yeah, add alignemnt.
 
I have seen people buying all the parts as some have mentioned. Tie rods, pitman arms, idler arms, etc. I have heard a few others say that they only changed the center link. So that is what I did. I ONLY changed the center link. Everything else fit perfectly. It was easy to align. Nothing rubs. An excellent modification in my book.

I took the power steering off because it does create drag on the engine. It weighs a lot as well. It has really cleaned up my engine compartment too. I race my car occasionally and have lightened it a good bit. Aluminum intake, heads, water pump, no accessories, etc. With the front end being light on these cars the wheel is not hard to turn at all. With all the leverage that these big steering wheels create, it is no problem. And I have 225/45/17 up front as well. So they are not skinny. Only if you are sitting still and want to turn the wheel is it hard.
I used to have an 89 convertible that I used to bypass the power steering on at the strip. Now that was VERY hard to turn.
 
I converted mine to manual. All you have to change is the centerlink on a 65-66. The tie rods are different from a p/s to manual car, but p/s tie rod ends will work on a manual steering car. The p/s tie rods have a curve in them to clear the p/s valve body, but overall dimensions are the same as manual. You can't, however, use manual tie rods with p/s. I know this will work on the 65-66 cars, but I think the later cars may require more parts.

Also, keep in mind the p/s box has a quicker ratio than a m/s box. It's not bad on the road, but it's a little stiff around the parking lot.

I hope this helps.
 
so if I'm understanding that on a 65 mustang with P/S to change to manual steering is as easy as changing the center link.
I'm not to worried about the box due to the fact I'm going to install electric assist opening room in the engine compartment for A/C and saving power.