pro-hawk or anyone that can help

boondocksaint · Mar 15, 2004

my car drives real good. 87 lx w/ rebuilt 2.3 ranger motor. when i drive, 1 in 3 times and i go in 3rd gear it wants to chug and acts like it will die,have to drop it in 2nd to get power again. replaced the fuel filter and injectors (19#) and fuel pump works i can hear that noisy b*stard above my motor.all hoses are connected down the line and have new exhaust. the only thing i have not done is timed it to specs i believe its running @ 8% btdc. need to replace 1 seal (distributor)and will be able to time it. this problem only happens in 3rd gear no other gear. anyone have any ideas. this is kind of wigging me out. tonight i found out my whistle coming from underneath is my release bearing. so ill have to pull the motor again to put a new one in. thanks for any input

Dr_EluSivE · Mar 15, 2004

sounds to me like timing or igntion, how new are plugs, wires, cap? I would get the Dizzy problem fixed and retime the motor, i had a motor (not a ford) behave similar and all it needed was a retime.

Dr.

boondocksaint · Mar 16, 2004

cap, rotor, plugs and wires are new. i am going to try the re-time first. thanks

Pro-Hawk · Mar 16, 2004

boondocksaint said:
my car drives real good. 87 lx w/ rebuilt 2.3 ranger motor. replaced the fuel filter and injectors (19#) thanks for any input

Now when you say the car drives good you mean setting there it runs nice and every now and then it driver perfect? Do you notice if this only happens at a certain RPM's ?

Did the Ranger come with 19lbs injectors or did you swap them in to the 2.3L/ 2.5L ?

What gear box are you running also? Sorry if I missed it if you gave the imfo already

boondocksaint · Mar 16, 2004

Pro-Hawk said:
Now when you say the car drives good you mean setting there it runs nice and every now and then it driver perfect? Do you notice if this only happens at a certain RPM's ?

Did the Ranger come with 19lbs injectors or did you swap them in to the 2.3L/ 2.5L ?

What gear box are you running also? Sorry if I missed it if you gave the imfo already

well the ranger motor was a 2.3 so i left the same 19 lb injectors from my other 2.3 in the ranger 2.3. now when you say gear box, do you mean my ratio? ratio is 2:88 soon to put 3:45's next week. if you mean anything else please explain(re:gear box) as for driving,starts up good,warms up good i can drive it 3 times up the road and back about the 4th time it bogs down always in 3rd gear(never made it to 4th when it does that) and when it happens it happens the minute i shift to 3rd gear. and this is not when i drive it 4 times in a row. ill drive,then drive it again in an hour, then an hour later, etc,etc.

Pro-Hawk · Mar 16, 2004

boondocksaint said:
well the ranger motor was a 2.3 so i left the same 19 lb injectors from my other 2.3 in the ranger 2.3. now when you say gear box, do you mean my ratio? ratio is 2:88 soon to put 3:45's next week. if you mean anything else please explain(re:gear box) as for driving,starts up good,warms up good i can drive it 3 times up the road and back about the 4th time it bogs down always in 3rd gear(never made it to 4th when it does that) and when it happens it happens the minute i shift to 3rd gear. and this is not when i drive it 4 times in a row. ill drive,then drive it again in an hour, then an hour later, etc,etc.

The reason I ask about the injectors is the 2.3Ls came with 14lbs injectors and if you took some 19lbs off of another car like a 94-95 GT then you need to use the MAF that is set for 19lbs injectors.

As for the "Gear box", Thats just small talk for Transmession

Your car is a little puzzling to me, does it do this at a rendom RPMs?

boondocksaint · Mar 17, 2004

Pro-Hawk said:
The reason I ask about the injectors is the 2.3Ls came with 14lbs injectors and if you took some 19lbs off of another car like a 94-95 GT then you need to use the MAF that is set for 19lbs injectors.

As for the "Gear box", Thats just small talk for Transmession

Your car is a little puzzling to me, does it do this at a rendom RPMs?

no not at random rpm's just right when i shift into 3rd. doesnt even give power in 3rd to get any rpm's. running 5 speed tranny. (t-5)

i4power · Mar 17, 2004

How is the clutch feeling? Did you break it in correctly?

boondocksaint · Mar 17, 2004

i4power said:
How is the clutch feeling? Did you break it in correctly?

clutch feels good in all gears,not being an idiot but what is the correct procedure for breaking the clutch in? just have been using it real easy going through the gears when i drive. release bearing is squeeking real light so i am going to spray some white lithium grease on it to see if it quiets down. also did the adjustment that was described when i did a search by pulling up on the pedal. is that the correct way to adjust? thanks in advance

notched86 · Mar 17, 2004

i4power said:
How is the clutch feeling? Did you break it in correctly?

I didn't know you had to break a clutch in. I was boosting 14 PSI and shifting my SRT-4 at redline with only 900 miles on it. oops

Pro-Hawk · Mar 17, 2004

Are you getting any codes for it ?

boondocksaint · Mar 18, 2004

Pro-Hawk said:
Are you getting any codes for it ?

just a 21 (Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT )
and a 24 (Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT ) changed the ranger temp sensor back to my old temp sensor and did not get the code back. so the 24 im trying to figure out how to take care of.also to get my car running i had to put a mapp sensor from an f-150 on because the 'stang one had my sensors going nuts.so ill put another on today and clear and re-check my codes. also i think if it was my timing this problem would happen every time instead of once in a while. thanks for the input

Pro-Hawk · Mar 18, 2004

In my book it lists a code 24# as :

Air charge temperature (ACT) sensor or Vane air temperature (VAT) sensor signal voltage is out of specification (engine off) or not at normal levels ( engine running)

or

Electronic Distributorless ignition system ( EDIS) fault failure in coil #1 primary circuit.

I can't help but wonder if you car doesn't have a ACT sensor on it and its screwing up. I remember you said you couldn't find one and today I'll dig out my old air box and take a pic and see if I can send it to ya. I have to also wonder if on the older models the VAT was like a MAF sensor for the N/A cars before it was used on a turbo. I don't mean it will look this same meaning it want have the vane part on it. I would disconnect the air sensor you got a replug it a few times to make sure its cleaned up a hair. I know its sounds like a long shot but you never know

As for the ECT code this may be a issue still. I know its probly hard to get to but try and get hold of the plug and move it up and down to try to get a better connection. Sometimes the connection get dirty or corrode and want make a good contact. I once had a GT Escort that had a problem of not starting after you drove it around a little bit. It seems that wants it was warmed up the ...crap I forget what its called...the sensor uses to add more fuel to warm the car up, once its warmed up its stops. Well on this car it wouldn't stop after warm up and would it would flood the car once you parked it. So like if you went to get a coke it would flood so when you came out to leave it wouldn't start. So maybe the ECT is faulty and causing it to run rich thus running like crap. I know all thats a long shot also but sometimes its the simple things that get ya, believe me

boondocksaint · Mar 18, 2004

Pro-Hawk said:
In my book it lists a code 24# as :

Air charge temperature (ACT) sensor or Vane air temperature (VAT) sensor signal voltage is out of specification (engine off) or not at normal levels ( engine running)

or

Electronic Distributorless ignition system ( EDIS) fault failure in coil #1 primary circuit.

I can't help but wonder if you car doesn't have a ACT sensor on it and its screwing up. I remember you said you couldn't find one and today I'll dig out my old air box and take a pic and see if I can send it to ya. I have to also wonder if on the older models the VAT was like a MAF sensor for the N/A cars before it was used on a turbo. I don't mean it will look this same meaning it want have the vane part on it. I would disconnect the air sensor you got a replug it a few times to make sure its cleaned up a hair. I know its sounds like a long shot but you never know

As for the ECT code this may be a issue still. I know its probly hard to get to but try and get hold of the plug and move it up and down to try to get a better connection. Sometimes the connection get dirty or corrode and want make a good contact. I once had a GT Escort that had a problem of not starting after you drove it around a little bit. It seems that wants it was warmed up the ...crap I forget what its called...the sensor uses to add more fuel to warm the car up, once its warmed up its stops. Well on this car it wouldn't stop after warm up and would it would flood the car once you parked it. So like if you went to get a coke it would flood so when you came out to leave it wouldn't start. So maybe the ECT is faulty and causing it to run rich thus running like crap. I know all thats a long shot also but sometimes its the simple things that get ya, believe me

your right about the little things. i learned start cheap and go from there. took the day off tomorrow, am going to switch some sensors, and injectors, timing, etc, etc,. ill have the verdict tomorrow night. appreciate everyones patience and time for help on this troubleshooting. but yea see if you can send a pic. i sent some a few threads back when you started helping me, listed under "codes" its the whole area of my airbox. local boy that races these at i-20 speedway outside of columbia said that some of these did not come with some "air" sensors. thanks

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