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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Problem with MM firewall adjuster and adjusting it

  • Thread starter Thread starter yellowstang1994
  • Start date Start date Dec 31, 2005

yellowstang1994

New Member
Sep 9, 2004
338
0
0
Dec 31, 2005
#1
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #1
Alright everything is setup on my car (quadrant, adjuster, new cable). I sanded down the part that goes into the adjuster a few times now. I left a small gap between the black housing and the adjuster. The adjuster is screwed all the way in (no threads showing). When I hook it up underneath the car the gap between the housing and adjuster forces it's self together, and the adjuster is impossible to turn.

So I unhooked everything. I had antiseize on the threads of the adjuster but I put some white lithium greese on it just incase. Then I thought maybee the rubber was binding up and causing the adjuster to turn with the housing so I put a little greese on the rubber and underneath it on the cable so it can turn. Then I installed it the same way however I stuck some screw drivers where the gap should be to force it there. Hooked it back up. And I did have my gap, but when i took the screw drivers out they went right back together. And the adjuster is still impossible to turn. (And when it does turn the black housing part is moving with it).

Ok first let me ask. When the firewall adjuster is adjusted all the way in. That means it's fully tight? And when it's adjusted outward (threads showing) it's giving it more slack? Or vice versa. And am I installing this the wrong way or something? I can't get the gap MM is talking about or even adjust this POS. Help please my cars been down for 3 weeks now!!!
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Dec 31, 2005
#2
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #2
all the way in = more slack

all the way out = less slack
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Dec 31, 2005
#3
  • Dec 31, 2005
  • #3
I did not quite get this, but you dont still have the stock grommet on the cable, do you? The FWA replaces that grommet.

The above info is right. Also some quadrants wont allow you to use the stock cable (my SVO single hook quadrant, for instance).

Good luck.
 

bso

New Member
May 19, 2005
46
0
0
Jan 2, 2006
#4
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #4
Steeda makes a spacer that slides on the stock cable so it can be used instead of the aftermarket cables. I went back to stock because the aftermarket unit never fit right and it is not as smooth as stock during shifting.
 

yellowstang1994

New Member
Sep 9, 2004
338
0
0
Jan 3, 2006
#5
  • Jan 3, 2006
  • #5
Well, I still can't adjust this damn thing, lol. But I checked how the clutch pedal felt and took the cable off to make the adjustment, then put it back on and it drives fine. Changing the adjuster and quadrant made a hell of a difference in terms of pedal effort on the car. All seems well to me. I'm just a little worried about that whole having it too tight and the TOB riding the pressure plate fins but even before on the stock setup the valero TOB was riding the pressure plate a tad and having that stupid squeak. I was told that valero's TOB design did ride the pressure plate no matter what. I don't have the cable tight at all and the pedal is about where it was before, so I think I'm good. I guess if my TOB blows apart I'll know then right? haha.

Sorry it's late, valero = valeo, lol.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Jan 3, 2006
#6
  • Jan 3, 2006
  • #6
Valeo makes very good stuff (OEM for many exotics). A cabled clutch should have a slight preload on the cable in order to keep the TOB seated lightly against the diaphram fingers on the pressure plate. Otherwise the TOB can ride around and start to wear the input bearing retainer shaft.

Good luck.
 
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