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Problems after changing pads on 03' GT

  • Thread starter Thread starter 87_stang
  • Start date Start date Jan 14, 2012

87_stang

Member
Dec 12, 2005
131
0
16
Tonganoxie, KS
Jan 14, 2012
#1
  • Jan 14, 2012
  • #1
Last weekend I changed all 4 pads on my wifes car and cleaned off the sensors (ABS light was on, and still is). With the car on stands and in gear the rear wheels didn't want to stop while braking. We bled the lines and all is good there but still not stopping like it should. I am at a stand still right now and can't figure it out. While driving you have to push the pedal almost to the floor before the car stops. But once the brakes to kick in they seem to work normally. This is the first time I've seen/changed pads on a screw in type of caliper so not sure if I done something wrong or what. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
 

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2009
1,962
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U.S.A, U.S.A., U.S.A.!
Jan 14, 2012
#2
  • Jan 14, 2012
  • #2
Make, year, model?
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
99
Canada
Jan 14, 2012
#3
  • Jan 14, 2012
  • #3
87_stang said:
Last weekend I changed all 4 pads on my wifes car and cleaned off the sensors (ABS light was on, and still is). With the car on stands and in gear the rear wheels didn't want to stop while braking. We bled the lines and all is good there but still not stopping like it should. I am at a stand still right now and can't figure it out. While driving you have to push the pedal almost to the floor before the car stops. But once the brakes to kick in they seem to work normally. This is the first time I've seen/changed pads on a screw in type of caliper so not sure if I done something wrong or what. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

I believe you've still got air in the lines.

Were the hydraulic lines disconnected when the pads were changed and if not, why were the brakes bled?

How was the pedal before the work began?
 

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2009
1,962
39
59
U.S.A, U.S.A., U.S.A.!
Jan 14, 2012
#4
  • Jan 14, 2012
  • #4
trinity_gt said:
I believe you've still got air in the lines.

Were the hydraulic lines disconnected when the pads were changed and if not, why were the brakes bled?

How was the pedal before the work began?
Click to expand...
My sentiments exactly, I'm wondering if he got air in the master-cylinder, if so hes gonna need to bench-bleed the Master- Cylinder.
 
D

darkside03gt

Member
Feb 19, 2007
851
8
18
Sacramento CA
Jan 15, 2012
#5
  • Jan 15, 2012
  • #5
Why did you have to bleed the system?

It sounds like you have air in the master cylinder. All you have to do to bleed it is put a hose on the bleed screw closest to the firewall and bleed it. Then do the same on the next screw.
 

JhMustangGT03

Member
Jan 4, 2012
57
4
18
Louisville, KY
Jan 16, 2012
#6
  • Jan 16, 2012
  • #6
definetly sounds like air in the lines. I would start from scratch and bleed the system.
 

TylerByers18

Member
Jan 4, 2012
110
5
18
Grand Prairie, TX
Jan 16, 2012
#7
  • Jan 16, 2012
  • #7
did you get the rotors resurfaced if they are very glazed it can feel like the car is not stoping
 

Brute03

Member
Mar 20, 2006
232
0
16
Jan 16, 2012
#8
  • Jan 16, 2012
  • #8
when i first got my car the rear brakes were hardly doing any braking and the pedal was almost hitting the floor. i bled it at the calipers and no change, it wasn't until i bled the rear screw on the m/c when i got full braking back
 
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