problems problems problems

Chythar said:

Not to throw a monkey wrench in, but I thought stock fuel pressure was 38 with vacuum off?

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Not working on my car for 2 yrs is taking its toll....Good catch....Your correct at 38...my bad...

You'd have to reset the KAM if you drop the pressure that much. The EEC has adapted for the higher pressure (via changing the injector pulsewidth). If you drop the pressure out, the EEC has no way of knowing (we obviously dont have FP monitoring like deadhead systems). You'd need to let the EEC relearn the injector PW it requires or just start with a 'clean slate' (clear the KAM).

Good luck.

95GTstang3o2 said:

okay this may be a dumb question but whats a "KAM" and how do i reset it? Is there a possibility that the C&L meter (which i've read has some problems and some that don't) is not working right and leaning out the car? I seen today that the fuel pressure dropped 3 pounds from where i set it yesterday.It' making me mad that it keeps detonating I mean the car runs aesome at start up and then sucks when it heats up

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KAM is keep alive memory - basically keeps the computer settings (parameters) established for all driving conditions to refer back to. To reset it just unplug the battery for about 20 minutes or so. When you restart the car it my not idle right for awhile because it is establishing new running parameters. I usually let mine idle for at least 5 minutes without touching the gas. It may sound as if it's going to cut off but don't touch it just let it do it's thing. It will get it together.


Just a FYI. I've read where some folks had issues with the O2 sensors and LT headers (i.e. sensor not heating up properly) and giving the computer false readings. Also, read that removing the EGR could cause some part throttle ping. Just some food for thought. But a good tune seems to take car of all those issues though.

Personally, I'd go back to the Pro M MAF as they seem to be good items for out of the box installs and there is probably not that much gain between 73mm and 76mm

Just One Man's Opinion. Good Luck

i was told 39 to 40 stock fp

the tuner said 39.5

you here about people changing meters and solving their problems..an easy mechanical fix if you ask me

sounds like 2 issues to me ... the maf needing to be turned, and an oil leak probably dripping on the headers and smoking

if you have a cold air setup in the fenderwell, there is probably a 90* bend before the maf. when the air goes through the bend, you end up with alot more air at the outer edge of the bend then there is at the other places. so the element completely misses that air and the computer thinks there is less air coming in than there really is.

the C&L meters are especially susceptible to this because the sampling tube hugs the edge of the housing. if you look at a LMAF for example, the piece holding the element extends pretty far towards the center of the housing

does it ping, starting around 3000 rpm at heavy throttle? mine did

ever notice that a stock setup has a screen in front of the maf? that is to try to even out the air more so the maf gets a better reading.

try positioning the maf so that the sampling tube is, if you will, at 3:00 when looking at it from the front of the car. i had similar hesitation or bucking and this fixed it 100%. this may cause it to think there is more air than reality, so you may get some intermittent CELs while driving around. the CEL is most likely because the O2 sensors will be reading righ too much because the computer is giving too much fuel because it thinks there is more air than reality. then try putting it at 2:00 or 4:00 or something like that. keep clocking it until it drives well with no CEL lights

my guess is that the smoke is coming from a small leak in a valve cover gasket dripping onto the hot headers and smoking like crazy