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Progress Pics and a few questions.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 69Rcode_Mach1
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2005
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PoliceInterceptor

Keeper Of Automotive Oddities
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Live in GA, But could be any where really.
May 18, 2005
#21
  • May 18, 2005
  • #21
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
I wanted to check with the mounting plates that the motor mounts hook onto. I can't remembmer which side was facing the front. There is an offset so that it is an inch behind as opposed to if I swapped them they would be an inch in front. The mounting plates are basically an inch above the crossmember is that correct.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that I do not think I have ever even seen the engine mount set up for a 69 351W, but:

Looking at the picture in "Mustang 1964 1/2 - 1973 Restoration Guide" by Tom Corcoran & Earl Davis. It shows a rubber insulator that bolts to the engine, then a mount, which bolts to the frame/crossmember. It calls out the left as 6029 and Right as 6028, it appears that it is two pieces and that the small portion which bolts onto it goes to the front. This small portion is called out as 6031 Left and 6030 Right. There is a flat area that should be up and the rubber insulator straddles. The book says "1967-70 Mustang with Small Block".

Hope that helps.

It strikes me that you must not have any real repair information for this car; do they not sell reprinted manuals or CD ROMs? I have a factory repair on CD for my 1972 truck, so surely it is out there for a Mustang. Money well spent if so.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
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Montrose, CA
May 18, 2005
#22
  • May 18, 2005
  • #22
How in the world have you gotten this far without a factory shop manual or even a Chilton's guide???? The factory shop manual holds the answers to all of the questions you have been asking and much, much more. It is unquestionably worth the money.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 18, 2005
#23
  • May 18, 2005
  • #23
HAHAHAHAHAHA thank you guys I completely forgot that I had chiltons. That thing is usually a piece of crap though and I need other references for things like the T5 pressure plate bolts and such since they differ. I want to get experienced answers as opposed to following a book without any questioning. But I will check my book for that bracket question I can't believe I didn't think of that.


[QUOTE='68StangGT]nice car

if you ever want to sell it for a new project, let me know [/QUOTE]

Thank you for your kind words I really appreciate it. IF I ever choose to sell I will contact you but I never will she will go with me to the grave.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
38
Montrose, CA
May 18, 2005
#24
  • May 18, 2005
  • #24
It just occurred to me looking at your nic, is this really an R-code car?
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 18, 2005
#25
  • May 18, 2005
  • #25
No, there is no way a high schooler could have ever afforded an R code. A SCJ R code with Drag Pack option is one of my dream cars so I named that my nickname since it is also the same style as what I own. I would never butcher(I hate that word, all I have done is drilled one hole in the firewall, I wouldn't call it butchering) an R code like this.
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
May 18, 2005
#26
  • May 18, 2005
  • #26
reenmachine said:
How in the world have you gotten this far without a factory shop manual or even a Chilton's guide???? The factory shop manual holds the answers to all of the questions you have been asking and much, much more. It is unquestionably worth the money.
Click to expand...

Simple answer?

Us!
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 18, 2005
#27
  • May 18, 2005
  • #27
Max Power said:
Simple answer?

Us!
Click to expand...

Very true you guys have helped me out a bunch. Almost all the credit needs to go to Ronstang though he has helped me with this since last year. That man is amazing and really sacrifices a lot of his time and money to help others out. Any question he has the answer to and will never cheap out his way may not be the most cost beneficial but it is the safest and best way.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 19, 2005
#28
  • May 19, 2005
  • #28
Well guys after 4 times of taking her out and putting her back in we finally got it done. SHE IS BEAUTIFUL!!!! Compare the before and after pics and you guys decide.
 

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69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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May 20, 2005
#29
  • May 20, 2005
  • #29
AW COME ON GUYS! Does nobody see a difference between the two?
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
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Montrose, CA
May 20, 2005
#30
  • May 20, 2005
  • #30
Very clean! You've done some nice work.

Your next assignment is to get rid of the red heater hoses!
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
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Macon, Ga.
May 20, 2005
#31
  • May 20, 2005
  • #31
yeah, the red heater hose has to go. Otherwise, it looks great
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 20, 2005
#32
  • May 20, 2005
  • #32
You guys think so? I also think that black would look better but I kind of like the red ones too since they are original. I am still contemplating that one.
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
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Macon, Ga.
May 20, 2005
#33
  • May 20, 2005
  • #33
they're not original....
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
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Montrose, CA
May 20, 2005
#34
  • May 20, 2005
  • #34
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
You guys think so? I also think that black would look better but I kind of like the red ones too since they are original. I am still contemplating that one.
Click to expand...
I've never seen red hoses as original...are you sure about that?
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 20, 2005
#35
  • May 20, 2005
  • #35
Are you sure? In all the mustang catalogs I look in for new heater hoses it lists them as red on the 1969 year.
 
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