I'm not saying this is the case, but don't go the cheap route when trying to remove your stock SC pulley by purchasing some cheap-ass puller from your local parts store. Purchase a pulley puller that is SPECIFICALLY designed to remove the SC pulley on the Eaton M112. Otherwise you will be sorry...all you'll do is mangle the stock pulley before it ever budges from the shaft. I know the special purpose puller is expensive for what appears to be a single use tool... but maybe you can borrow one from another Terminator owner in your local area?
Actually I am a machinist of 25 years and I am working on a new design of puller that is a bit more simple and gives the most even support possiable to the pulley. I was just curious if someone knew the thread size off hand. If not I will quit being lazy and just measure mine. LOL
I am also working on Titanium caster/camber plates and some very trick Alu. seat mounts.
Actually I am a machinist of 25 years and I am working on a new design of puller that is a bit more simple and gives the most even support possiable to the pulley. I was just curious if someone knew the thread size off hand. If not I will quit being lazy and just measure mine. LOL
I am also working on Titanium caster/camber plates and some very trick Alu. seat mounts.
COOL! Keep us posted on the progress! I just saw a post over on another forum where a Cobra owner tried to use a GP puller on his upper and the results were a very mangled stock pulley + broken tool. Eaton wasn't messing around when they pressed that stock wagon wheel onto the shaft of the M112!!
Have you got a good close up look at the special pullers already out there on the market? The are made in such a manner that the whole back side of the pulley is supported. Cjeck out the KB model:
The Steeda model:
RPM Outlet model:
As you can see everybody goes about it just a little differently.
Thanks U.M
Yes I have seen those. I have the RPM model. I really wasnt all that happy with it. I saw the KB one and really liked the support it gave. It actually gave me ideas for the one I am building. Once I get some of the stuff made I will post some pics. The Titanium camber plates are really looking good. They will have roughly the weight of Alu but much stronger. I am looking for Neg. 2-8 deg range on the camber. (For us corner guys) I am also working on a Titanium tube K and A arms. Very pricy but the results will be one of a kind. I hope to drop of another 25% of the weight from the steel ones. My goal is to get under 3000 lbs with around 650 HP. It really hurt when I ripped the mystic seats out. You know somthing. No back seats or passenger seat and I can put 10' 2x4's in there. Its getting easier now LOL trim pannels... Gone! Carpet... Gone! Noooo Not the stero....Ok it can stay. for now ROFL
I used the Steeda and the freaking pot metal tip seezed in my snout...and then mushroomed in it. I had to get a new freakign blower or snout if I wanted to go that route. Piece of trash.
The tool worked great actually...the pulley came off easy..it's just the tool tip fused in my snout and would not come out....I tapped it...drilled it...no dice.
So I bought a ported blower from someone...heheheh older blower but what the hell...it's ported and came with an accufab plenum ported as well. *shrugs*
STAY AWAY from STEEDA Pullers PERIOD.
2 guys did the removal my buddy has done this many many times...and this tool sucks. If they just made the tip from CNC Billet Steel it would rock.