Pulling motor for oil pan gasket, what am I forgetting?

[fastmonkeywheel]

My 90 GT's AOD is slipping. I have a replacement to install but figure since my oil pan, front main and rear main seals are leaking I might as well pull the motor and tranny together and fix everything at once.

Here's a list of what I plan on replacing, am I forgetting anything?

New tranny filter and fluid
New coolant
New Oil and filter

Rear main seal
Oil pan gasket (1 piece rubber or cork?)
Timing chain cover set, seal and gasket
New timing chain
New oil pump
New harmonic balancer

 

[krallman]

no cork cork sucks

 

[Aryan15]

What about the transmission slip?

 

[niklid05]

you need to replace the aod with a 5spd.

 

[fastmonkeywheel]

The tranny's first gear clutches are slipping from a start, and sometimes it slips during a soft 1-2 shift. I have a rebuilt one going in; wide ratio gears, shift kit, etc.

The first AOD lasted me 200k+, I don't see a reason to change everything over in my daily driver to make it a manual.

 

[jrichker]

Locate a harmonic balancer puller because you will need it to get the balancer off. Most larger auto parts stores will loan/rent one.

Cork Gasket tricks:
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the side of the pan rails gasket that mates to the block. Apply the weather strip adhesive to the pan rails on the block too. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the block

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the pan rails.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Yea! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

 

[jammer84_03]

use the one piece....i used one and i love it...no probs with it so far....just dont use cork

 

[fastmonkeywheel]

Today I picked up the following items.

13 quarts transmission fluid
5 quarts oil
2 jugs coolant

oil filter
transmission filter and pan gasket

1 piece rubber oil pan gasket
timing cover set, gasket and front main
oil pump
exhaust manifold gaskets
upper intake manifold gasket


They didn't have the rear main seal or timing set in stock, I'll have to pick that up from another parts store.

So far I'm $160 for the parts mentioned and $300 for the transmission. Plus an extra $100 or so for the remaining parts, I'm less than $600 for some major preventive maintenance work. This all stock motor should last me a good while longer, which is good since I'm going back to school in the fall for another bachelors degree.

I'm going to start spraying penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts tonight, and everyday until this Saturday.

Now, I had a muffler shop repair my exhaust last year, the tail pipes and mufflers were pretty rusted out. They had to cut past the flanges on the H pipe to get to good pipe, so my tail pipes, mufflers and H pipe are all welded together. Is it possible to remove the motor and transmission without fully removing the H pipe? Can I just unbolt it from the exhaust manifolds and let it hang? If not I had better find a sazzall and some wire to rehang the exhaust so I can have it rewelded after I'm done.

I'm sure someone has done this before, I'm pretty confident in my mechanical ability, but I've never done this much work in one sitting, normally over the course of weeks because it was never my daily driver. Anyone have a time estimate on this?

 

[cobradvm]

Maybe do the valve cover gaskets as well

 

[fastmonkeywheel]

Valve cover gaskets were replaced a couple of years ago with some nice rubber one's. No leaks there!