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Engine Putting in new distributor. Steel or Iron

  • Thread starter Thread starter AbhorrentSpecies
  • Start date Start date Aug 1, 2020
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AbhorrentSpecies

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So I'm stabbing a new distributor today but I want to be as certain as possible I have the correct one. I purchased an Steel gear and the one I pulled from my mostly stock 89 was the, I believe, original motorcraft. Part was E4ZE-12131-AA. Any ideas?
 
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Monkeybutt2000

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#2
  • Aug 1, 2020
  • #2
Steel gear for roller cam.
 

AbhorrentSpecies

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#3
  • Aug 1, 2020
  • #3
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Steel gear for roller cam.
Click to expand...
I've read that. But are all 89s roller cam?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#4
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Steal distributor gear for roller cam engines
If the engine is original to the mustang than it will be a roller engine.
 
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AbhorrentSpecies

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General karthief said:
Steal distributor gear for roller cam engines
If the engine is original to the mustang than it will be a roller engine.
Click to expand...
I can not get the new distributor to line up exactly where the old one was. The rotor is either a tad before my old mark, or like a quarter inch beyond it. I can out the old one back in right where it was but the new one, no luck.
 

AbhorrentSpecies

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#6
  • Aug 1, 2020
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General karthief said:
Steal distributor gear for roller cam engines
If the engine is original to the mustang than it will be a roller engine.
Click to expand...
What could happen if I start the car and it's one tooth off? Will it just not start or cause some other horrible problem. The new distributor will not line up exactly where the old one did. Of course the old one was causing me problems like backfiring and such.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Are you dropping the distributor in at tdc?
 

AbhorrentSpecies

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General karthief said:
Are you dropping the distributor in at tdc?
Click to expand...
I was following the LMR video that says to align the rotor and TFI to exactly where the old dizzy was. So I made marks and attempted the drop the new one and no matter what it only goes in just after or just before my mark. The old one will still light up with my mark.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Square one:
Make sure you are at tdc
Drop the distributor in so it lines up with the #1 spark plug, using the distributor cap to mark #1 on the distributor body.
It may not be exact, just close.
Start engine and set base timing.
 
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jrichker

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  • #10
AbhorrentSpecies said:
So I'm stabbing a new distributor today but I want to be as certain as possible I have the correct one. I purchased an Steel gear and the one I pulled from my mostly stock 89 was the, I believe, original motorcraft. Part was E4ZE-12131-AA. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Revised 28-Apr-2018 to add photo & description of the SPOUT connector and SPOUT jumper .

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.

Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT jumper




It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT. The SPOUT (Spark Out) enables the computer to control the spark advance. When the SPOUT is removed, the ignition timing reverts to the base ignition timing set by either the spark rod inside the distributor or the physical position of the distributor.

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.
Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

 
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AbhorrentSpecies

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Jun 14, 2020
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Aug 2, 2020
#11
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #11
jrichker said:
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Revised 28-Apr-2018 to add photo & description of the SPOUT connector and SPOUT jumper .

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.

Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT jumper




It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT. The SPOUT (Spark Out) enables the computer to control the spark advance. When the SPOUT is removed, the ignition timing reverts to the base ignition timing set by either the spark rod inside the distributor or the physical position of the distributor.

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.
Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Click to expand...
So just to her certain. My harmonic balancer says ATC...then 10...then 0...then 10...20...30....BTC. to be at top dead center i need to align it with the 0 correct?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#12
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #12
AbhorrentSpecies said:
So just to her certain. My harmonic balancer says ATC...then 10...then 0...then 10...20...30....BTC. to be at top dead center i need to align it with the 0 correct?
Click to expand...
Correct
 

Gs1987GT

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#13
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #13
Correct.
 

AbhorrentSpecies

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#14
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #14
General karthief said:
Correct
Click to expand...
So, I put the motor at TDC with the old rotor still on and the blue mark on my intake is where the old rotor pointed to. But when I drop the new distributor, that's the closest I can get it. ???
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#15
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #15
Put the cap on it, mark #1 on the outside of distributor, pull the cap and see it the rotor points there or close to it.
 
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AbhorrentSpecies

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#16
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #16
It's still off from my old mark but it's just ahead of that intake bolt. Better or??
 

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AbhorrentSpecies

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#17
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #17
General karthief said:
Put the cap on it, mark #1 on the outside of distributor, pull the cap and see it the rotor points there or close to it.
Click to expand...
Heard
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#18
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #18
Oh, did you verify that the balancer is showing tdc (0*) and the piston is at tdc?
these balancers are known for slipping when they get old.
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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#19
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #19
Just bring the #1 cylinder to tdc ON THE COMPRESSION stroke and put the distributor in so it points at the #1 terminal. Then set timing with a light. Don’t rely on your marks to get you there
 
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AbhorrentSpecies

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#20
  • Aug 2, 2020
  • #20
The balancer is definitely at TDC and I felt compression from the piston. Also, technically i can get the number one plug to align with the rotor I either position that I out it in. Hopefully I'm making sense haha
 
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