Is there really that big of a difference between K-Members? Maximum motorsports is the one I was going to buy for about $600... You can get UPR's version for about $200. What could make them that much different????
Quality differences in K-Members?
- Thread starter reeber
- Start date
GT12207
Member
MM's k-member is the strongest, but probably heaviest aftermarket k-member.
What are tubular k-members and a-arms good for anyways? less weight? that's it? If that's the case then you're better off moving the battery to the trunk and getting a rear seat delete
What are tubular k-members and a-arms good for anyways? less weight? that's it? If that's the case then you're better off moving the battery to the trunk and getting a rear seat delete
To better place the front suspension, different mounting points, strengthen weak areas yada yada yadaGT12207 said:
Think about all the extra cable you will have moving the battery
propellerhead
New Member
Has anyone looked into how aftermarket k-members do in front end collisions? Isn't the stock k-member part of the structure that forces the engine and transmission down during a collision? If so, does the aftermarket k-member do the same?
my plan is to not get into one 
all joking aside, most of the mods we do to our cars are not saftey oriented, the K-member may be a bit more to the unsafe side, but drag racing or autocross is inherintly (sp?) dangerous. I dont know how it effects the designed crash behavoir, but it wouldnt change my mind anyway.
all joking aside, most of the mods we do to our cars are not saftey oriented, the K-member may be a bit more to the unsafe side, but drag racing or autocross is inherintly (sp?) dangerous. I dont know how it effects the designed crash behavoir, but it wouldnt change my mind anyway.
I have long tubes, no rear seats, and have no plans to move the battery. My big question, which still hasn't been fully answered, is:
Do you think it is worth putting the extra money into a more expensive (MM) K-Member? I am also buying the new control arms and coil over kit with Bilsteins. Should I just get the whole MM kit? I heard they are the best fit, but I am just afraid I am paying a lot just because of the name. I did buy the MM chrome CC plates and they ROCK, so I wanted to stick with what I am pleased with... I don't know... I am sure I'll still go with all MM products, because I refuse to buy cheap stuff, but if someone can talk be out of the expensive K-Member, than please do... SAVE ME SOME MONEY!
Do you think it is worth putting the extra money into a more expensive (MM) K-Member? I am also buying the new control arms and coil over kit with Bilsteins. Should I just get the whole MM kit? I heard they are the best fit, but I am just afraid I am paying a lot just because of the name. I did buy the MM chrome CC plates and they ROCK, so I wanted to stick with what I am pleased with... I don't know... I am sure I'll still go with all MM products, because I refuse to buy cheap stuff, but if someone can talk be out of the expensive K-Member, than please do... SAVE ME SOME MONEY!
oops (Edited) and reused for space
like i said before go MM or don't, URP, PA, all the others are NOT recommended for street/road/auto-x, they are just looking for lighter weight and tell you it's strong as chit, and of course, whatever is stronger will break thru something weaker. How would you like for a tubed K member to say high to your body when it rip right thru sheet metal? not saying it's plausable but anything could happen
and reused for spaceYes get the whole MM kit, you could either opt for the offset wheel placement but you'll have to cut some fenderwell outreeber said:
like i said before go MM or don't, URP, PA, all the others are NOT recommended for street/road/auto-x, they are just looking for lighter weight and tell you it's strong as chit, and of course, whatever is stronger will break thru something weaker. How would you like for a tubed K member to say high to your body when it rip right thru sheet metal? not saying it's plausable but anything could happen
I've looked into itpropellerhead said:
and found nothing, testing K-members for collisions test is very expensive and no manufacturer will do it
The stock Member has crumble points in the structure which bend on impact, aftermkt K's don't because they are looking for lightweight-durable enough, or strengthening, racing needs. Depending on the year, not sure about 94-98's but 99+s are designed to drop the engine from the K-member in a front end collision. So there is 2 main points where the stock K-member is different in a safty standpoint
Your best suggestion (and i advice this) is to contact your insurance company and find out if aftermkt K-members are 'ok' to change out with them
oh and Eric, whatever you do DO NOT buy the granatelli k member because it looks like the MM one 
hotmustang331
Active Member
If im not mistaken, the MM one is HEAVY....like not much lighter at all. I went with PA racing. Its very nice, but I think they gave me the wrong one....my darn motor mount holes wernt even close and that mild steel is HARD to grind out lol. Otherwise it seems ok....oh and my LTs were hitting the motor mount too, so I tied down the motor and stopped that.
I dropped like 62#s with the K/A arms/coilovers.
I say get the PA racing K/A arms and buy the MM coilovers. My QA1 coilovers transmit ALOT of vibrations on big bumps.
and that mild steel is HARD to grind out lol. Otherwise it seems ok....oh and my LTs were hitting the motor mount too, so I tied down the motor and stopped that.I dropped like 62#s with the K/A arms/coilovers.
I say get the PA racing K/A arms and buy the MM coilovers. My QA1 coilovers transmit ALOT of vibrations on big bumps.
it all depends on what you are doing with the car. if you want to make it into just a drag racer, then by all means use the UPR one. you will have maximum weight savings off the front end of the car. they are best to be used straight line, i wouldnt want to corner with one.
however if you plan to corner carve, then you would want to use the MM one, or the griggs one. you sacrafice the weight loss, but get better suspension mountion and location. like in the MM one, it moves the wheels forward about .75" thus allowing you to run more positive caster. you tend to want a stronger unit with a road racer to better handle the stronger lateral g-forces.
however if you plan to corner carve, then you would want to use the MM one, or the griggs one. you sacrafice the weight loss, but get better suspension mountion and location. like in the MM one, it moves the wheels forward about .75" thus allowing you to run more positive caster. you tend to want a stronger unit with a road racer to better handle the stronger lateral g-forces.
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