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Question about Intake Bolt Tightening/ After car is warm

  • Thread starter Thread starter Danman765432
  • Start date Start date May 12, 2006
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
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16
Nutley, NJ
May 12, 2006
#1
  • May 12, 2006
  • #1
What the title pretty much says. How do you tighten the lower bolts after the car is warmed up. I know two of the bolts on the lower you cant really tighten do to brackets on them but how would you get to the others to tighten too?

Also is PCV Screen/filter needed or can you not use one?

-Dan
 

GRGT1994

New Member
Sep 22, 2004
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0
May 12, 2006
#2
  • May 12, 2006
  • #2
I don't follow. Why do you want to warm the engine before working on it? I don't believe the torque spec for the lower intake manifold bolts (or any engine bolts) contemplate warming the engine first. Also, why are your bolts loose anyway?
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,676
1
76
Altoona, PA
May 12, 2006
#3
  • May 12, 2006
  • #3
You are supposed to re-tighten the bolts after the car has been brought up to opperating temps and allowed to cool back down. This will help ensure the gaskets are fully seated. The bolts will normally be loose when you re-check them after the car has been warmed up and allowed to cool back down. I always retighten mine.

Dan- I'm stil not sure what you are asking. You must remove the upper intake to retighten the lower bolts. Just repeat the torque sequence even on the bolts with the brackets, there is still normally a nut on top of the bracket and I usually tighten it too just to firm up that bolt a little bit.

You MUST run the PVC screen if you run a PCV otherwise you will suck TONS of oil into the intake.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
May 12, 2006
#4
  • May 12, 2006
  • #4
I'm with what Paul said

One more thing about the intake bolts and torque.

If you put one on with fresh gaskets ...................

You will have to go over the torque sequence 3 to 6 times before they all hold the proper torque value

THEN

As Paul said, they will need yet one more re-torque after a heat cycle or two.

You see lots of peeps have coolant/v leaks after intake replacement because they did not know about this.

Grady
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
May 12, 2006
#5
  • May 12, 2006
  • #5
I've installed my lower maybe 3 times, so far no leaks and the bolt's are all evenly fully torqued when I go to remove it. BUT, I may start doing it as a good habbit now that I know about it
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
May 12, 2006
#6
  • May 12, 2006
  • #6
paul what you said was exactly what i wanted to know. Thanks. Thanks to everyone else that also said something.

-Dan
 
D

Danman765432

Member
Mar 3, 2006
471
0
16
Nutley, NJ
May 12, 2006
#7
  • May 12, 2006
  • #7
Just one more thing i noticed my pcv house was a little loose going into the grommet and the grommet was in there a little loose too. Is that normal or should i buy a new grommet?

Also just to let you guys know. I have the intake all the way in besides i have to hook up my throttle body and also my CAI, but besides that everything is pretty good and im just waiting for my alternator to arrive.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
May 12, 2006
#8
  • May 12, 2006
  • #8
It can be a little loose, I would get the Motorcraft parts to ensure proper fit. It isn't going to be a real tight fit for either Ford or a parts store piece...

The order is screen, grommet, and then put in the pcv valve...

When I have went to retorque the intake after a few heat cycles...I usually could get another turn out of them...nothing major, but enough for me to tend attention to them...

It is tough but if you get a L shaped wrech you can get to the bolt under the heater core bracket. If not, you could always remove the heater core line by unscrewing that "big nut"...it is like 1 1/8 in size or so...as you know.

Good Luck!
 
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