Question about torque wrenches

[StangBangRicers]

I can get a brand new 1/2" clicker torque wrench:
*accurate within +/-4%
*Heavey duty cam & pawl mechanism
*Reversible
*Length 18"
*Range: 10 to 150 ft. lbs
*Includes carrying case

Made by Pittsbugh w/ liftime warranty

for $11.99

Is +/-4% accuracy good enough to replace heads with etc...?

Or would I need an expensive one?

 

[HISSIN50]

im curious about this too. i would subscribe, but that function doesnt work lately.
is this wrench from Harbor Freight? i think i have the same wrench and got it there for about the same price. just curious.

 

[89MustangGX]

I just bought that wrench from Harbor Freight when I was in their store, I haven't used it yet, but it looks like a nice piece. It can't be THAT bad, right?

 

[HISSIN50]

I just bought that wrench from Harbor Freight when I was in their store, I haven't used it yet, but it looks like a nice piece. It can't be THAT bad, right?

ive been using the same wrench for awhile and it seems to work fine. i havent had it calibrated, nor do i know how accurate it is. hence my wondering myself (for engine torque sequences and actual torque it would be nice to know). but for other not so important stuff, it works fine for me. cant beat the price.
sure beats the ones that deflected (where you watched the arrow move to the torque you were lookin for) that i used growing up. LOL.

 

[Maryland Stang]

+- 4% is fine. The only thing to watch for is to make sure you you return the torque wrench to near it's lowest setting when you are done with it. Leaving it set to 60, 70 etc.. can make the wrench take a "set" and throw it's accuracy way off.

 

[Michael Yount]

I use click type torque wrenches for lug nuts, major suspension pieces, etc. But I don't use them for engine assembly. For engine assembly I always use my trusty old beam type. As long as they're not abused, they can't go out of calibration. And unlike the click types, you can see how quickly you're approaching the torque you desire as the beam sweeps across the scale. If I were building engines for a living where speed was an issue, I'd use brand name click type torque wrenches and have them calibrated regularly. But for my purposes, I really don't think you can beat the old beam type torque wrenches. And they're less expensive too. What I wouldn't do is buy an inexpensive click type. You just don't know what you're getting. By the way - I use my beam type to check my click type so I know when to have it recalibrated. That should tell you something.

 

[HISSIN50]

I use click type torque wrenches for lug nuts, major suspension pieces, etc. But I don't use them for engine assembly. For engine assembly I always use my trusty old beam type. As long as they're not abused, they can't go out of calibration. And unlike the click types, you can see how quickly you're approaching the torque you desire as the beam sweeps across the scale. If I were building engines for a living where speed was an issue, I'd use brand name click type torque wrenches and have them calibrated regularly. But for my purposes, I really don't think you can beat the old beam type torque wrenches. And they're less expensive too. What I wouldn't do is buy an inexpensive click type. You just don't know what you're getting. By the way - I use my beam type to check my click type so I know when to have it recalibrated. That should tell you something.

Michael, real interesting. "beam" style was what i was referring to earlier, but didnt know the name. its what my dad used when i was little.
i guess a cheap beam wrench is worse as a cheap clicker. (our's eventually tried to tighten something insanely tight and rested at ~20 ft/lbs). LOL.
what brand of each type to you like? cost?