question before I go further in putting my engine back together

I'm rebuilding my engine stock 302 block. I have the crank in and the pistons

in. Before i put the pistons in, the crank spun with ease by hand. Once i put

my pistons in I needed a ratchet to spin the motor. The further into the

pistons i got, the more it took to spin the crank and with all the pistons in I

have to use a little force to spin the crank. Is this normal or should there be

no pressure. Any help will be greatly appreciated
 
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thats what i thought but i wasnt sure. a friend helped me rebuild it last time and long story short im replacing my cam lifters got the crank turned .010 and had the block tanked. i may be a little over cautious but everything i am doing now im questioning. everything so far i have checked with plastgauge and its all dead on just making sure its supposed to need help spinning, before i get to the cam and timing chain tomorrow
 
It should take about 25 to 29 ft/lbs to turn the short-block assembly.

I set the thrust with a big ol' hammer on the crank... but that's just me and few others I keep company with.

Don't be afraid to generously oil that bitch up. Lay a bunch of old newspaper on the floor.
 
It should take about 25 to 29 ft/lbs to turn the short-block assembly.

I set the thrust with a big ol' hammer on the crank... but that's just me and few others I keep company with.

Don't be afraid to generously oil that bitch up. Lay a bunch of old newspaper on the floor.

explain..... just got my shortblock together. knew nothing about this...
 
As noted it should take 25-30 ft lbs to turn the cranks and pistons, and it should turn smoothly all around.

You set the thrust bearing when installing the crank. With all of the mains in, or at least the shells in the block, install the main cap with the thrust bearing, barely snug the bolts, then tap the crank back and forth. I only do this once. Or pry it fore and aft with a screwdriver. This makes the thrust face of the crank push the thrust bearing thrust faces into longintudinal alignment. Then torque it down, finish installing the rest of them. Should measure the for and aft movement to see that it is in spec, in mock up or as set.
 
thats not good, it stripped the block threads? I'd think it'd strip bolt before block. How many torque steps did you do? Guess you'll probaly have to tap heads to 1/2, which is good to do anyway

ps- this is another reason why head studs are better.
 
Actually I did it in the three steps up to 70 lbs then they said to go to 80 on the bottom 5 on the last one as i got to 80 the wrench spun.Thinking i dont know maybe the stud wasnt in all the way i spun it a couple times finding the stud was in all the way i took the stud out and there was metal in the threads telling me it pulled out of the block. i am going to tap it to 1/2 now because i figure it has to be stronger than an insert or coil. oh well one odd ball wont bother me as long as it works and the motor runs. just crappy going all this way to get screwed at the end.
 
might have an issue with the hole in the head if they are stock? I dont remember if the holes in the heads 1/2 or 3/8 I forget. I know some heads come predrilled for 1/2 but you can use a spacer washer for 3/8 in the head. something to look into.
 
actually they are afr and are predrilled for 1/2 but i went and got an insert today so i could use my 7/16 studs having an odd ball would have driven me nuts so very slowly and with alot of self doubt i drilled into my block with a 17/32 drill so i could tap it to 5/8 for the insert didnt come out 100 percent perfectly straight, but the head slides on and sits flat just going to let the thread lock set overnight before i go and re install the head for good.