question before I go further in putting my engine back together

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 17, 2010

#1

• Mar 17, 2010

• #1

I'm rebuilding my engine stock 302 block. I have the crank in and the pistons

in. Before i put the pistons in, the crank spun with ease by hand. Once i put

my pistons in I needed a ratchet to spin the motor. The further into the

pistons i got, the more it took to spin the crank and with all the pistons in I

have to use a little force to spin the crank. Is this normal or should there be

no pressure. Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

P

powershift46

Founding Member

Apr 22, 2002

366

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17

NW IA

Mar 17, 2010

#2

• Mar 17, 2010

• #2

it will spin harder with all the extra friction. as long as the rings are gapped correctly and the bearings are correct you should be ok.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 17, 2010

#3

• Mar 17, 2010

• #3

thats what i thought but i wasnt sure. a friend helped me rebuild it last time and long story short im replacing my cam lifters got the crank turned .010 and had the block tanked. i may be a little over cautious but everything i am doing now im questioning. everything so far i have checked with plastgauge and its all dead on just making sure its supposed to need help spinning, before i get to the cam and timing chain tomorrow

 

Tanus

New Member

Dec 11, 2009

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A to the Z

Mar 17, 2010

#4

• Mar 17, 2010

• #4

thats normal

make sure you follow the directions concerning the thrust bearing

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 17, 2010

#5

• Mar 17, 2010

• #5

had the machine shop do the crank while they had the block there as well as the cam bearings

 

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

1,622

363

124

Cartersville,Ga

Mar 17, 2010

#6

• Mar 17, 2010

• #6

Yes but the thrust usually needs to be set by the assembler. That's you. Check the crank endplay. Every engine I have assembled, I had to take the Thrust bearing sand it down and reassemble and check.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 17, 2010

#7

• Mar 17, 2010

• #7

i will check that tomorrow thank you

 

3

347HO

Member

Jan 13, 2008

462

2

16

Seattle

Mar 17, 2010

#8

• Mar 17, 2010

• #8

It should take about 25 to 29 ft/lbs to turn the short-block assembly.

I set the thrust with a big ol' hammer on the crank... but that's just me and few others I keep company with.

Don't be afraid to generously oil that bitch up. Lay a bunch of old newspaper on the floor.

 

Chrome_Rust

Member

Dec 5, 2008

530

1

17

Findlay, Ohio

Mar 18, 2010

#9

• Mar 18, 2010

• #9

347HO said:

It should take about 25 to 29 ft/lbs to turn the short-block assembly.

I set the thrust with a big ol' hammer on the crank... but that's just me and few others I keep company with.

Don't be afraid to generously oil that bitch up. Lay a bunch of old newspaper on the floor.

Click to expand...

explain..... just got my shortblock together. knew nothing about this...

 

liljoe07

5 Year Member

Feb 18, 2009

1,622

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Cartersville,Ga

Mar 18, 2010

#10

• Mar 18, 2010

• #10

Dana, that doesn't set the clearance between crank and bearing. But it does set the thrust bearing flush. I know you know this. Just clarifying for others.

I was talking about if the crank end play was to tight.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 18, 2010

#11

• Mar 18, 2010

• #11

all seems good so far got the cam and timing chain on so far today. have to take the chain back off trying to get those dots to line is a pain but all is wall so far other than that. thanks for the tips im sure ill be back for more or to let you guys know my fox is running lol

 

rd

Founding Member

Jan 12, 2000

3,316

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109

Ocean Springs MS

Mar 18, 2010

#12

• Mar 18, 2010

• #12

As noted it should take 25-30 ft lbs to turn the cranks and pistons, and it should turn smoothly all around.

You set the thrust bearing when installing the crank. With all of the mains in, or at least the shells in the block, install the main cap with the thrust bearing, barely snug the bolts, then tap the crank back and forth. I only do this once. Or pry it fore and aft with a screwdriver. This makes the thrust face of the crank push the thrust bearing thrust faces into longintudinal alignment. Then torque it down, finish installing the rest of them. Should measure the for and aft movement to see that it is in spec, in mock up or as set.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 21, 2010

#13

• Mar 21, 2010

• #13

so it went from good to bad in about 80 ft lbs of torque got my heads on and the last bolt i torque stripped in the block. passenger side front bottom bolt in the water jacket. can i tap and heli coil this or should i tap it to a 1/2 inch stud instead

 

Tanus

New Member

Dec 11, 2009

847

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A to the Z

Mar 21, 2010

#14

• Mar 21, 2010

• #14

thats not good, it stripped the block threads? I'd think it'd strip bolt before block. How many torque steps did you do? Guess you'll probaly have to tap heads to 1/2, which is good to do anyway

ps- this is another reason why head studs are better.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 21, 2010

#15

• Mar 21, 2010

• #15

Actually I did it in the three steps up to 70 lbs then they said to go to 80 on the bottom 5 on the last one as i got to 80 the wrench spun.Thinking i dont know maybe the stud wasnt in all the way i spun it a couple times finding the stud was in all the way i took the stud out and there was metal in the threads telling me it pulled out of the block. i am going to tap it to 1/2 now because i figure it has to be stronger than an insert or coil. oh well one odd ball wont bother me as long as it works and the motor runs. just crappy going all this way to get screwed at the end.

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

1,783

282

124

Mar 22, 2010

#16

• Mar 22, 2010

• #16

might have an issue with the hole in the head if they are stock? I dont remember if the holes in the heads 1/2 or 3/8 I forget. I know some heads come predrilled for 1/2 but you can use a spacer washer for 3/8 in the head. something to look into.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Mar 22, 2010

#17

• Mar 22, 2010

• #17

actually they are afr and are predrilled for 1/2 but i went and got an insert today so i could use my 7/16 studs having an odd ball would have driven me nuts so very slowly and with alot of self doubt i drilled into my block with a 17/32 drill so i could tap it to 5/8 for the insert didnt come out 100 percent perfectly straight, but the head slides on and sits flat just going to let the thread lock set overnight before i go and re install the head for good.

 

silver1983gt5.0

New Member

Sep 7, 2003

116

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sturbridge,massachussets

Apr 10, 2010

#18

• Apr 10, 2010

• #18

just in case anyone was wondering how my little project went, the car is up and running again again thank you all for your advice it was all used i appreciate it