Racing Torque Converter for 4R70W

Rocketman

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Apr 20, 2004
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I had the opportunity to do a complete tech article on my new West Coast Racing Torque converter.
http://stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=65&Itemid=1

My current 1/4 mile times are around 14.5

Any guesses as to what my 1/4 mile times will be with my new 10 inch 2800 RPM stall converter?

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YOU RUN 14.5 WITH 4.10'S Something is wrong there! you have similar mods to me and I ran 13.8 with 4.10's and could have done at least one or two tenths better. but the converter should improve your 60' greatly as long as you can hook up you should have 1.8-2.0 60's after the install and should be running under 14 seconds.
 
No I used to have DR's and they suck for the street and this is my Daily Driver so I just stuck street tires on it but i have no traction issues at the track just a lack of a stall issue! how are you running that time with stock gears??? doesn't make sense! Why do you have an aluminum d/s and don't have a gear up grade????
 
joshheat25 said:
No I used to have DR's and they suck for the street and this is my Daily Driver so I just stuck street tires on it but i have no traction issues at the track just a lack of a stall issue! how are you running that time with stock gears??? doesn't make sense! Why do you have an aluminum d/s and don't have a gear up grade????


what is your 60' time? you should run faster than 14.5 stock.
 
OinkAodeOink said:
I remember running a 14.5@97 in my completly stock 01 GT 4R70w 60' was 2.2
I believe.. I see no reason why with good tires and 410 gears you should'nt be in the mid 13's ( if your close to sea level)

I race at LACR in Palmdale Ca. The track is at 2,700 ft above sea level. That's why I run 14.5. Yes I run a BFG TA Drag Radial.

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joshheat25 said:
No I used to have DR's and they suck for the street and this is my Daily Driver so I just stuck street tires on it but i have no traction issues at the track just a lack of a stall issue! how are you running that time with stock gears??? doesn't make sense! Why do you have an aluminum d/s and don't have a gear up grade????
new england dragway is 90' above sea level, my car weighs 3,326 with me in it at the track, i got the aluminium d/s because it's lighter and stronger than the stock one, i'm going to get 4.10's in the spring, along with a sct xcal-2.
 
OinkAodeOink said:
I remember running a 14.5@97 in my completly stock 01 GT 4R70w 60' was 2.2
I believe.. I see no reason why with good tires and 410 gears you should'nt be in the mid 13's ( if your close to sea level)

I'm hoping that with this new converter, I'll see 13's.
 
I don't know how sticky the BFG's are, but if you had traction problems with the 4.10's alone, wait until that converter goes in there. You'll think "traction problems". I speak with experience on this. Even with my strong rear and tight suspension on the rear, if I punch my car from a stop on the street, I'll spin those tires to the rev limiter and go sideways while going into second.

Best advice I can give you is heat those BFG's as well as you can, launch on idle, and launch at the second yellow light. As soon as you see the second yellow light hit, punch that throttle as fast as you can, then hold on tight. If you grip traction, if the skies are clear, and if the track is well prepped, you should see 13's easily.
 
Dark Knight GT said:
I don't know how sticky the BFG's are, but if you had traction problems with the 4.10's alone, wait until that converter goes in there. You'll think "traction problems". I speak with experience on this. Even with my strong rear and tight suspension on the rear, if I punch my car from a stop on the street, I'll spin those tires to the rev limiter and go sideways while going into second.

Best advice I can give you is heat those BFG's as well as you can, launch on idle, and launch at the second yellow light. As soon as you see the second yellow light hit, punch that throttle as fast as you can, then hold on tight. If you grip traction, if the skies are clear, and if the track is well prepped, you should see 13's easily.

Cool, thanks for the info.
 
TGJ said:
14.3 is my guess.

Good luck with that TC.
I sure hope u r joking...a 3200 stall and nitto dr's knocked .6 (still with a good bit of spin off the line) off my 1/4, before the upper/lower cntrl arms. W/o tires, he wont run his best times, but he WILL run better than a 14.3. On kuhmo 712's I ran a 13.5, 13.58, 13.62 all at 101-102 mph. :shrug:
 
Rocketman, I'm now having a look at the West Coast converters for myself. It appears that Bill at WCC uses high friction carbon for the lining of his clutch plate units. I hear that is a very durable substance. Let us know how it holds up for you. Also, you might need to get a custom program for that thing, as the converter might alter the shift points. Be sure to keep the line pressure steady during WOT thorttle shifts, as if you don't get enough pressure to that torque converter clutch unit, you'll fry that clutch plate in an instant. As a matter of fact, Bill and I are suspicioning that might be what is causing pre-mature failure of some of these torque converter plate linings. I'm going to have a look into it.

EDIT: Damnit, I mispelled a word that totally changed things. I meant to put, "I'm now having a look at West Coast Converters", instead of "not having a look at West Coast converters". Forgive my ignorance.

As for the typical install, it will take around 4-6hrs worth of labor to install a converter. So figure that in there.