Rack and pinion questions

Old Skooler · Mar 5, 2012

I took the car out over the weekend and I have a lot of
play in the steering wheel. I can turn the wheel almost a
Quarter way in both directions before the wheels even moves.
I was going to buy a new rack and tie rod ends but I want to make
Sure this will resolve the problem

Are there any other things this could be? The rack isn't leaking, and
When I jack the front end up I do have some movement in the tires
When turning left to right.

Any advise would be appreciated

CarMichael Angelo · Mar 5, 2012

your steering shaft has a "rag joint" that could be bad. Do you know what and where that is?

MFE92 · Mar 5, 2012

Inner tie rod ends are a common culprit. How do the inside edges of the tires look?

Old Skooler · Mar 5, 2012

The tires are brand new, I bought the car over the winter and did the work so the first time I drove it in length was really this past weekend. Looking at the list of things done on the car before I purchased it was a Rag Joint, Im not sure if it was new or used but clearly the previous owner knew there was a problem. Is there a way of testing the inner tie rod?

91TwighlightGT · Mar 5, 2012

Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands. Grab the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and shake the tire back and forth. If you have a buddy who can look while you do this, it is easier. If the inner tie-rod is bad, you should feel it. You may need to remove the rack bellows in order to see the ball and socket of the tie rod. There should be no play in this area.

Are the rack bushings in good shape? If they are deteriorated, the steering rack will move from right to left as you turn the wheel.

Old Skooler · Mar 5, 2012

I was looking on line I didn't realize how expensive a new MM rag joint was. I'm going to do the few checks up above when I get home. Are there any signs of a bad rack? It's not leaking, from all the threads I've read about steering it seems that it's either the rag joint inner or outer TR or the rack could be leaking. Any trouble shootings thoughts on the rack?

jrichker · Mar 5, 2012

91TwighlightGT said:
Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands. Grab the tire at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and shake the tire back and forth. If you have a buddy who can look while you do this, it is easier. If the inner tie-rod is bad, you should feel it. You may need to remove the rack bellows in order to see the ball and socket of the tie rod. There should be no play in this area.

Are the rack bushings in good shape? If they are deteriorated, the steering rack will move from right to left as you turn the wheel.

Excellent advice.

A replacement for the "Rag Joint" is a $5 piece of fabric reinforced rubber biscuit at the Help! section of most auto parts stores.

Steering rack replacement
The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by removing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the hydraulic lines, front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

Power steering pressure lines:
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.

Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.

Old Skooler · Mar 6, 2012

Ok so last night igot into the issue, looks like the tie rods are bad, the bushings are old and need replacing, the rubber disc within the rag joint looks to be dry rotted, and my rack isn't leaking anymore because from the look of my under carriage it's all drained out. (no power steering pump)

I'm ordering the rag joint rebuild kit 9.95, now my question is a friend of mine has a rebuilt gt rack with new tie rods inner and outer he wants 75.00 for. I'm not running a power steering pump and I know I should buy a flaming river manual rack, but money is tight. Can I get away with the gt rack and plug the hydrolic ports? It's whats on the car currently.. I'd really only try and get a season out of it, but I want it to be safe.

Thanks for the info so far, it's been a great help. It's been a long time since I've owned a mustang I'm learning more each day.

91TwighlightGT · Mar 6, 2012

You can do that, however your car would not pass a Missouri Safety Inspection with the power steering inoperative. You may know an inspector that won't care, but unless you actually convert to a manual rack you aren't technically legal.

11 CSR 50-2.200 Steering Mechanisms
(1) Steering Wheel Play.
(A) An inspection for steering wheel play will consist of checking steering sector for
looseness and binding condition. If vehicle is equipped with power steering, the
engine must be running and the fluid level and belt tension must be adequate
before testing. Turn steering wheel through a full right and left turn. If equipped,
inspect energy absorbing steering column.
(B) Inspect steering.
1. Reject vehicle if:
A. Steering gear binds or jams other than at wheel stops;
B. There is more than two inches (2") of free movement in steering
wheels up to and including eighteen inches (18") in diameter or more
than three inches (3") in steering wheels over eighteen inches (18") in
diameter;
C. Power steering belt slips, is frayed, if serpentine power steering belt
has sections missing, if fluid level is below manufacturer’s minimum
fluid level, if hoses or connections are leaking, if a power steering
unit has been disconnected and has not been converted to manual
steering or if any component part is missing, loose or leaking
sufficient fluid to cause droplets;
D. Energy absorbing steering column is collapsed or partially collapsed;
E. Steering wheel and steering column are not properly secured; or
F. Steering gear box or steering rack assembly is not securely mounted

What are your future plans for the car? If it is a street car, I would buy an SN-95 rack, get some outer tie rods, buy a power steering pump and hose and call it a day. You will still come out cheaper than a flaming rivers rack, and you will enjoy your car more on the street.

If it is a drag car, then bite the bullet and buy the right part the first time. The rack is not a huge deal to replace, but it is enough of a pain to not want to do it twice for no good reason.

Rack and pinion questions

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