rack and pinion

Outer tie rods at a min should be replaced. Note that it seems to me that the bushings they provide with the parts store racks are often wrong, so I would pick up some new ones from the stang aftermarket (I have some poly's sitting on the shelf for this reason).

I wont tell the story how I started out to replace a rack on the 88 and decided to renew other things while in there (it was stripped to the frame by the time I was done).

Dont forget alignment budgeting.

Also if you are lowered and need CC plates, now is the time to install them (since you will be hitting the alignment shop).

That is all I can think of right now.

Good luck.

not wanting to jack the thread but i think my tie rods are going too ( gonna replace rack and pinion too) how much is it for an alignment? usually

80-100 bucks for 4 wheels but I don't think the Mustang has any adjustability out back so maybe cheaper.

HISSIN50 said:

I wont tell the story how I started out to replace a rack on the 88 and decided to renew other things while in there (it was stripped to the frame by the time I was done).

Dont forget alignment budgeting.

Also if you are lowered and need CC plates, now is the time to install them (since you will be hitting the alignment shop).

Click to expand...

Hmm, sounds like the project I'm in the middle of right now.

I'd second the poly rack bushings ($10-15). If you're not installing CC plates, it'd be a good idea to inspect your strut bushings and maybe replace them with poly as well. When the rubber sofens up over time it allows the strut rod to start leaning inwards a bit, which can throw your alignment off.

I've been quoted $45-$65 to align my stang, pretty much average for a front end only job.

our shop charges $80 Can. for a four wheel alignment
this includes setting the Toe, any camber or caster adjustments are extra

Duro

I had my rack and pinion replaced last year. I decided that I should have the pressure hose and the return hose replaced also. The rubber breaks down in these things especially where they mount to the rack and pump and they're know to leak from here also.

Besides, as the rubber is old, ages, and degrades, it contaminated the lines, the fluid, and the flow, so why not replace those also and then not ever have to worry about it ever again.

I take my car to a shop that specializes in all odd alignment jobs, lifted trucks, campers, lower cars, race cars, and i pay $80 to have it aligned any way i want.

Repacing everything that touches the rack or aligment.

I'd do the works. End links, ball joints, tie rods sway bar bushings, hoses.
It won't be cheap, but if you drive the car Daily when it's done you'll thank yourself. Have them set the caster as far back as possible where it matches, your car won't follow ruts anymore.

PonyBoy90 said:

I had my rack and pinion replaced last year. I decided that I should have the pressure hose and the return hose replaced also. The rubber breaks down in these things especially where they mount to the rack and pump and they're know to leak from here also.

Besides, as the rubber is old, ages, and degrades, it contaminated the lines, the fluid, and the flow, so why not replace those also and then not ever have to worry about it ever again.

Click to expand...

Outstanding point.
I also replaced all mine when doing the rack and pump. I paid about 20 bucks for the HP hose and a buck/foot for generic PS line (3/8" IIRC) for the Low pressure side (rack to cooler, cooler to pump).

A good flush is important too, so grab extra fluid.

My reman rack came with tie rod ends and the bushings were fine. The reman rack cost $200. Replace the PS pump, hoses and flush it.

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

$200 is way too much for a stock reman rack, i payed $250 for my AGR 15:1 Road race rack, and it's night and day compared to a stock rack.