Rack leaking at steering yoke..thoughts and ideas required.

DMAN302 said:

My steering rack is leaking at the point where the steering shaft enters the rack (yoke?). How exactly can I get to the seal located there, I will remove the rack and hope to replace the seal with both the hoses still on the rack, simply drop replace seal and replace. Any thoughts on how to disassemble that portion of the rack?

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Derek, I have a similar (small) leak on my rack. I was talking to my Dad about it and he said it is ussually better to just pick up a new rack rather than fix it. I don't know if it is because replacing that seal is a PITA, or it tends to leak after you replace it... not sure. I know my Dad knows his stuff and I ussually don't question him too much when it comes to things like that. He has been doing it for 45 plus years. This probably isn't very helpful, but I figured I would give you the information that was passed on to me. I am also sure that other people will beg to differ with me.

Besides, wouldn't it be nice to have a chrome Flaming River rack?

Tim

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

jrichker said:

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

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+1 Thats what I did when mine was leaking this summer. It was $85 and a $30 core. The new mount bushings were $10 for both sides. I had to buy new pressure and return lines as mine would not comes loose and twisted. Just a heads up, one of the hard lines is a dealer only part (although 2 parts stores said they had it...neither one did. They didn't fit). I am thinkin its the return line. Its about a 8" long hard line from the rack to a hose.