Rack & Pinion replacement.Have a few questions.

[MustangLX-5.0]

I am in the process of installing a new Rack & Pinion on my '96 V6.Yes,this is the 5.0 board.But I also can see the front end setup is exactly the same as it is on my '92.

I know your supposed to mark white paint on the tierod threads where the tierod end goes so it can be properly aligned when put back together.But since I am installing a new unit in,how is it possible to align it properly?The new unit has the tierods allready on them,minus the ends.This same problem also goes for the steering wheel shaft that clamps on.I could see this wouldn't be a problem if I were putting the old unit back in.But of course,the old unit is shot.And I wouldn't be here asking these questions

Any info is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

ttt

 

[t-top 87]

I have just replaced the unit on my 87 LX. What I did was count the number of turns it took to remove the outter tierod ends from the old rack. This should get you fairly close, in theory, when the new unit is installed. But since you are using a new unit, I don't belive it will be exactly aligned (mine wasn't). I would suggest a front end alignment to avoid any premature tire wear. As far as the steering shaft goes, it is possible your steering wheel will be cocked after reinstallation, this can be adjusted if you get an alignment, just make sure to tell them to straighten the steering wheel, or they might not. Good Luck.

 

[jrichker]

Here's some tips...

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

Disconnect the return line from the pump reservoir, and cap the hose connection or the reservoir so it doesn't leak. Put the end of the return hose in a big bucket so it will have some place to drain. Fill the PS pump to overflowing and start the car, turn the steering wheel lock to lock. Have your buddy watch the fluid level & flag you to shut down before it gets too low. Keep putting new fluid in until it runs clean. Then reconnect the return line & pressure test for leaks.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Thanks for the info.It is much appreciated.The toe-in is slightly off as I have to hold the steering wheel a slight pinch to the left.When I say "Slight pinch",I mean just barely holding it there as it allmost looks straight but it will wander to the right slowly if I let off the wheel for a second.Now,I must say,what a huge difference the new rack & pinion makes! Steering is tight and touchy.Had to get used to it a little.As for the core charge,it was $100.Taking the junk & pinion core back to the parts store.


Apparently the new rack didn't fix the problem I was having in the first place.The car shakes from 55 mph and up.Worse at 65 mph.It's so bad when I hit the brakes with medium pressure,the car shakes like an earthquake.I'm wondering if that's what trashed the seal on the passenger side tierod.So it looks as if I'll be getting new rotors and pads with that refund.Has to be the brakes causing it.

Question........Would a severely warped rotor create a noisy sound,that sounds something like a bad tire or a tire with a flat spot,that goes with the speed of the car but is only noticable from 30 mph and up? I havn't seen any of those problems on the tires,and I even rotated them from front to rear and the location of the sound didn't change.Only thing is,I can tell it's coming from the front end.....somewhere.

Well,thanks again for your help.

 

[jrichker]

How is the balance on the wheels & tires?

Warped rotors generally only show up when you press on the brake. They produce a pulsing feel back through the brake pedal.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

I"m not sure how the balance is on the wheels and tires.I had them balanced with proper weights when I put a new set of tires and rims on 2 years ago.How would I check the balance?I'm also thinking maybe a wheel bearing,but i'm unsure of this.There is no play in it if I try to move it in and out by grabbing at the brake rotor.I also checked the ball joints and it didn't have any play in it either.

Earlier today,I jacked up the rear end at the differential so I could free spin the rear wheels.It's a V6 and doesn't have the Posi. trac. my 5.0 has.As I sped up the wheels,I notice the rear end was making a load of clunking and clacking noises,as if maybe something was catching inside.I also noticed it was starting to vibrate quite a bit,especially when I sped up the wheels.It got much worse past a simulated 70 mph.It didn't seem to get that bad until I decided to give it some load by using the brakes.Even after I let off the brakes,it still was vibrating quite a bit.I was afraid something was going to break in there.Do you think maybe it only did this because I had the rear wheels off the ground?Or possibly a U-joint going bad.....I'm now thinking I have more problems than I originally expected.

I did forget to mention,that while driving,hitting the brakes not only causes the car to shake,the steering wheel also shakes along with it...also note,when I replaced the Rack,I also had to replace the passenger side tierod end.The ballstud moved way too easily and the boot had a large tear in the side.This was the second time I replaced that thing.The first time was 2 years ago..and a shop did it.

I'll figure this thing out.....someday...........eventually.

 

[HISSIN50]

might be time for a new wheel balance. i think it is recommended like every 6 months or so.

as JR said, shimmy in front wheels is likely balance. shake while braking is rotor warpage or imbalance of the wheels. incorrect torquing of the lugs can warp rotors.

also, for testing wheel bearings, etc, you probably need the wheels on (for leverage).

good luck.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Just replaced the front rotors and pads last night.It is slowly breaking-in.The brakes are a hell of a lot better than they used to be.Stops very easily and doesn't shake at all while stepping on the pedal.Only one problem remains now.It still trembles quite a bit just driving without hitting the brakes.It usually shows itself at 45 mph and up.And like before,the steering wheel goes along with the shaking.Funny thing is though,it seems to come and go.Sometimes it wont shake for allmost 2 minutes,then all of a sudden,maybe I was turning a corner or getting up to 60 mph,it would start shaking all of a sudden.

It most likely needs an alignment.Well,it's better news than finding out it could be a wheel bearing.Thanks for all your help.It is appreciated as always.

 

[HISSIN50]

nice work. be sure to properly break in/burnish the new brake hardware.

still sounds like a wheel balance issue to me. cheap to get them balanced (esp if you go where you got the tires). many places offer free rotation/balance.

it sounds stupid, but are your wheels clean? im not familiar with the geography in FL, but i think parts down there have been hit with severe storms. if a little mud is stuck in the wheel, etc, that can throw balance off.

good luck.