Rack & Pinion replacement.Have a few questions.

I have just replaced the unit on my 87 LX. What I did was count the number of turns it took to remove the outter tierod ends from the old rack. This should get you fairly close, in theory, when the new unit is installed. But since you are using a new unit, I don't belive it will be exactly aligned (mine wasn't). I would suggest a front end alignment to avoid any premature tire wear. As far as the steering shaft goes, it is possible your steering wheel will be cocked after reinstallation, this can be adjusted if you get an alignment, just make sure to tell them to straighten the steering wheel, or they might not. Good Luck.

Here's some tips...

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

Disconnect the return line from the pump reservoir, and cap the hose connection or the reservoir so it doesn't leak. Put the end of the return hose in a big bucket so it will have some place to drain. Fill the PS pump to overflowing and start the car, turn the steering wheel lock to lock. Have your buddy watch the fluid level & flag you to shut down before it gets too low. Keep putting new fluid in until it runs clean. Then reconnect the return line & pressure test for leaks.

How is the balance on the wheels & tires?

Warped rotors generally only show up when you press on the brake. They produce a pulsing feel back through the brake pedal.

might be time for a new wheel balance. i think it is recommended like every 6 months or so.

as JR said, shimmy in front wheels is likely balance. shake while braking is rotor warpage or imbalance of the wheels. incorrect torquing of the lugs can warp rotors.

also, for testing wheel bearings, etc, you probably need the wheels on (for leverage).

good luck.

nice work. be sure to properly break in/burnish the new brake hardware.

still sounds like a wheel balance issue to me. cheap to get them balanced (esp if you go where you got the tires). many places offer free rotation/balance.

it sounds stupid, but are your wheels clean? im not familiar with the geography in FL, but i think parts down there have been hit with severe storms. if a little mud is stuck in the wheel, etc, that can throw balance off.

good luck.